I had a bit of time off over the break, so I polished up the centre caps.
I ended up using some cutting agent and polish with a dremel buffing tool. It took a few hours but it was a nice way to pass boxing day.
929s and RX-4s either came with hubcaps or exposed wheels with the centre caps. The front hubs only needed the locating rubber bands fitted, whereas the back hubs needed the "cup" or hub changed over to one with a grooved slot for the rubber band.
The rubber bands in question:
Aaron had graciously given me two of the hubs that I needed with some more rubber bands. Here's an example of the hub with the groove in it and the band slipped on:
I dummied up the hub on a spare steel wheel to see if I could just unscrew the old hub and screw in the new one. No good, the lip on the hub is designed to sit behind the wheel, so off with the two back wheels:
Back wheel with the band-less hub on. If you see a hub like this on a 929 or RX-4 and it's an original car, then you know your car had hubcaps. Since this differential came out of the yellow 929 parts wagon, I'd say I'm 100% correct on this one as it had hubcaps on it before I bought it.
There are two big squat philips head screws that hold the hubs onto the axle. On the drivers side they screwed out without a worry. On the passenger side, one screw remained jammed on.
I broke out some penetrating spray, in particular one brand called Penetrene. Fantastic stuff but it is no longer stocked by a lot of stores. I used the nozzle tube on the can of CRC to get right into the back of the hub and worked the hub from side to side to try and loosen off the screw.
Now, in years gone by, I would have either broken out a cold chisel and a hammer and tried to smash the screw off or thrown bricks at something etc. This time I gave the spray a bit of time to really get into the screw thread, then gave my dad a call. He broke out his tools and pulled this out:
It's an impact driver. Basically you put a head attachment into it, so either a flat head screwdriver or a philips head, locate the attachment into the screw that you want to undo, then belt the end of it with a hammer. Depending on how you set it, it will either tigthen or untighten the fastener. We gave it a few taps to start off with, just to shake the screw loose (though I'd already tried a hammer on the end of a big screwdriver) and then progressively hit it harder as it became apparent that the screw was rusted in fast.
With dad giving the driver a big whack while I held it, then me wriggling the screw back and forth with a standard driverdriver and spraying more penetrene around, we eventually had our culprit out.
I checked the thread and it was fine, though I gave the thread hole a good flush out with cleaning solvent.
Test fitting the hub.
I then used anti seize "paste". It works really well in rust prone areas, so I thought I'd give it a try for next time. Bascailly you just dab it on the thread, screw the scew or bolt in, then wipe away the excess.
and one more:
That's the first time I've washed the car since Aaron gave it to me roughly two years ago!
I also had a rummage around through some junk I had and pulled out a keyring:
I've also changed the sparkplugs so they no longer look like this.
Along with the dizzy cap, leads, rotor button - I have a set of points to go on but I couldn't get my head around how to set them.
I'm waiting on the paint supply shop to reopen so that I can give a few final coats to the scuttle panel, I have to sand and paint the sunvisor, along with some other bits and peices. I had a go at fixing a small leak at the bottom of the drivers door - which hasn't worked
, so that also needs fixing and I need someone to have a look at the brakes as they have too much travel in them.
Getting pretty close now though!