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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 02, 2010 5:50 pm 

Joined: Fri Aug 15, 2008 11:39 pm
Posts: 114
Location: Adelaide
:mrgreen:
hehe.
thnx again for the drive.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 02, 2010 7:37 pm 

Joined: Mon Apr 19, 2010 2:42 pm
Posts: 118
Location: Newark, NJ
Beautiful car you got there, buddy. The US never gets the good stuff and it's way too hard and expensive to bring those sexy bitches over (especially in the east coast) :x .

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 06, 2010 12:12 am 

Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 4:07 am
Posts: 317
Location: South Australia
szymonsta wrote:
:mrgreen:
hehe.
thnx again for the drive.


No worries

te72_sunny wrote:
Beautiful car you got there, buddy. The US never gets the good stuff and it's way too hard and expensive to bring those sexy bitches over (especially in the east coast) :x .


Thanks, If its any compensation in Australia I think your Sunny would be alot rarer then my DR30, I have only ever seen one hatch / lift back :lol:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 10:48 pm 

Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 4:07 am
Posts: 317
Location: South Australia
I finaly had some free time last weekend and thought I should repaint my windscreen wipers and the strip across my windscreen, they were looking quite weathered, only problem the front ones were a pain to remove with the bonnet on the car (even with nuts removed).

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So when all else fails

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They came up well, Just need to take some after photos :P


...

On another note, Im about to to do an oil change, which oil filter was the same as the FJ20, was it the 280z?

I want to get an oil filter localy from Repco before I try ordering an FJ20 one in from SWM in Sydney.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Aug 14, 2010 1:45 am 

Joined: Mon Jun 09, 2008 11:07 pm
Posts: 178
black. hurmmmm


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Aug 14, 2010 11:25 am 
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Joined: Thu Jul 22, 2010 1:36 pm
Posts: 112
Location: Seattle, Washington
Try the Z170 for an oil filter, I can't remember were I read it but I have it written down in my notes. I think it takes the same oil filter as the L20B. The Nissan part # is 15208-W1103AU

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Aug 21, 2010 6:47 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 10, 2008 3:55 pm
Posts: 409
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
yup Ryco Z170 on my DR30.

grats on the Speedhunters photo too :D

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 23, 2010 12:55 am 

Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 4:07 am
Posts: 317
Location: South Australia
Thanks Ed,

The bad thing is I found all my newer photos of the car with the yellow fog lights installed after I send in that photo, looks abit plain with out them haha

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 23, 2010 11:49 am 

Joined: Mon Jun 09, 2008 11:07 pm
Posts: 178
pics pics of the black trim :D


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 25, 2010 6:36 am 

Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 4:07 am
Posts: 317
Location: South Australia
Will take some pics in the next day or 2 :tu:

Ended up using a Z117 Ryco oil filter as thats what I ended up pulling out of the car, I thought if it aint broke dont fix it :tu: Was a pain in the arse to get to damn it sucks having a low car :o


...

Has anyone cured the problem with the DR30 dashlights?? Before I would just have to switch the lights on/off the dash lights would just come back on, or if it hit a bump in the road... but now they arent coming back on at all.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 25, 2010 3:23 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 10, 2008 3:55 pm
Posts: 409
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
the dash lights were doing that recently in the coupe, also sometimes a couple of bulbs would go out while driving at night and then flicker back on again, then another one elsewhere would turn off, etc.

Ended up pulling the cluster out and giving the board a liberal dose of contact cleaner, seems to have done the trick although I've only driven the car once since then. if that fails perhaps look at making sure the solder joins/ribbons aren't all crusty. Typical 1980s Nissan electrics, hah :roll:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 26, 2010 6:50 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jul 12, 2008 10:14 am
Posts: 27
Location: Perth, Australia
had the same prob with my MR30, i ended up taking the cluster out to paint the surrounds and undid/redid all the little bulbs a few times to get better contact. also the dimmer pot down near the ignition switch was a tad erratic. so up/down a few times and seems to have worked!

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gimme all your cars!!!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 26, 2010 11:36 pm 

Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 4:07 am
Posts: 317
Location: South Australia
Cheers guys,

it seems like more fun ahead of me, hopefully it will fix the problem because when the dash lights go out so do the rear taillaights (though they still come on if i brake)... until I fix it I cant drive at night :x

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 Post subject: Re: My DR30 RS-X
PostPosted: Sat Apr 21, 2012 12:46 am 

Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 4:07 am
Posts: 317
Location: South Australia
I was wondering if any other DR30 owners could help me out with some detailed engine bay shots (preferably as stock as possible) so I can have some reference of what it should look like from the factory, ie where the wiring looms should be running, etc.

As you can see the previous owners did a shody job and I just kept putting it off until recently.

The fuel lines I changed last year, give an indication of the quality job and the themes continues into the engine bay.

I think I should loose a few kgs alone with all the mystery wiring and black grime in the engine bay :lol:

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Though I must admit I did the shody part of painting the inlet / rocker cover gold but it wont be for much longer :lol:

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 Post subject: Re: My DR30 RS-X
PostPosted: Sat Apr 21, 2012 5:36 am 
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Joined: Tue Jun 10, 2008 3:55 pm
Posts: 409
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
I'll grab some photos of the engine bay of the coupe when I get a spare moment. Being a one owner in Japan deal it's pretty much as stock as they come.

Gotta warn you though, it is super filthy :lol: :oops:

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 Post subject: Re: My DR30 RS-X
PostPosted: Sat Apr 21, 2012 9:03 pm 

Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 4:07 am
Posts: 317
Location: South Australia
Thanks Ed,

no worries about the filth, cant be worse then what im dealing with right now. :td:

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 Post subject: Re: My DR30 RS-X
PostPosted: Sat Apr 21, 2012 9:09 pm 

Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 4:07 am
Posts: 317
Location: South Australia
and btw looking at my last post from awhile back... the problem with the lights turned out to be the contacts inside the steering column, where the indicator / light / washer stalks connect to.

Just needed a bit of wet and dry to clean the contacts, all was good.

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 Post subject: Re: My DR30 RS-X
PostPosted: Sat Sep 21, 2013 6:26 pm 

Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 4:07 am
Posts: 317
Location: South Australia
After sitting idle for quite some time i'm finally on the home stretch. Yesterday I pulled out the ECU loom and re-wired it with a friend as the old wiring was a hack job.

One thing eluding me is what should be connected to the big bulky 8 pin connector above the clutch cylinder. on the ECU side I have wire running power to the ECU, 1 wire running to the thermostat. the other 6 wires are cut (im guessing because it now has an aftermarket ECU and they weren't required)

Does anyone know what this loom is for cluster/gauges.... cruise control... thermo fan control from the stock ECU?

Another question are the thermos also switched on through the ECU, or just through the switch/sensor at the bottom of the radiator?

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 Post subject: Re: My DR30 RS-X
PostPosted: Sun Sep 22, 2013 1:53 am 

Joined: Fri Jun 25, 2010 2:38 am
Posts: 2
Location: Christchurch, NZ
Mine has a switch in the bottom tank and then another switch in the top tank.


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 Post subject: Re: My DR30 RS-X
PostPosted: Sun Sep 22, 2013 3:43 am 

Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 4:07 am
Posts: 317
Location: South Australia
One more thought, maybe RPM signal could be one of the wires... I noticed they hadn't bothered wiring up anything on the ECU for the RPM signal (mystery solved why my rev gauge never worked) and there is a coolant temp sensor running off the same connector. Lucky I have another reason to take my cluster out, I can check with the multimeter then.

DJZ wrote:
Mine has a switch in the bottom tank and then another switch in the top tank.


well I guess it must be solely run off the switches. (which I still have been meaning to replace... I read Tridon make some)

BTW i take it this is yours http://www.nzdatsun.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=3645 ... I keep checking up on it every now and then as motivation, love what you've done with it so far :tu:

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