All original from what i know. The odometer is frozen up at 9600, which seems common on these old Toyota's. Its got a 3RC with a Toyoglide 2 speed on the floor. The transmission doesn't leak at all, but doesn't seem to like being in low gear very much. Not sure if there are adjustments on this? The engine does not run very well which i am 95% sure is because the distributor is not advancing properly. As well as not running right its leaking oil pretty good too. Should be a fun little project.

This thing has been really fun just cruising around town and what not, getting a lot of attention and questions. I hope that i can daily drive this little beast and eventually upgrade the engine/tranny to something with around 150-200hp.

Let me know what you guys think.

Bump

Welcome aboard, man that is sweet!!

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Too many Mazda's in the collection. 4 Mitsubishi's, 6 Toyota's and now 3 Datsun's as well.
Putting together a Mazda/Japanese motor museum. New bigger venue for the museum has been bought, watch this space!

Very nice. I have already done what you are looking for. 170HP 18RG with a 5 speed. its even more fun!

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NOT STOCK!

looks nice! i'm working on getting mine roadworthy. just need new brakes and patch up a hole in the exhaust pipe.

you should be able to get the odometer rebuilt for cheap. i spend $35 to get the speedo/odo rebuilt here in phoenix.

pulled the drums off yesterday and all four corners are almost brand new shoes. the muffler is completely rotted out on the inlet side as well, makes it sound pretty beast.

Is there any good reason to remove the smog pump? What exactly do i need to do? Almost seems like it would be a first gen belt driven supercharger

my smog pump was disconnected a long time ago. i was told it was a common thing to do, though not sure why. one less thing to maintain, or better performance maybe.

for questions and parts, email carlyn at cdinkler@bellsouth.net.

very clean car i have a 70 corona mark II where abouts are u in the east bay?

The timing does not work properly which i determined to be the vacuum advance. I took the vacuum line off from the carb to the distributor and found a nail that was shoved up inside the tubing to block the airflow. It was all hooked up and looked as if the vacuum advance would be working just fine.

Now answer me this. Why would anyone ever block the vacuum line to their
vacuum advance on their distributor?


Here are some more pictures for you guys (i know moominsean will appreciate the pics our cars are basically twins)

always willing to sell a toy for the right price

What is the tiny diameter hose coming off the emissions canister? mine is hooked up to nothing and i think is what is probably the source of the vacuum leak

i had that same problem! it would pop off when ever i would start the car causing it to die at low rpm's i just used small hose clamps to keep it in place.

you had the same problem as the tiny tube coming off the smog pump/canister thing above the intake/exhaust?


im trying to find where this hose even goes... its currently dangling getting torched by the exhaust manifold, but can't seem to find where it plugs into.

very nice car u have....very clean..

Havent posted on this thread for a few years. car has sat for quite some time with with the old tranny and engine sitting on the ground in the garage. I found that a couple of the bolts on the intake manifold had started backing out, creating a large intake leak. No vacuum on the carb or the distributor advance. assume this engine got hot but ran great so could just need resealed.

Engine:
I have acquired a new engine for it, a 20r/22r hybrid. Domed early pistons, dual row chain with a weber 32/36 on top. Also came with thorley header from a 4x4 pickup, looks promising that it will fit. Should be a pretty reliable setup once running. Got a holley inline fuel pump as well as a regulator which i can just suck fuel up with to the carb. Vacuum advance combined with mechanical advance make the ignition system really simple.

Tranny:
A40d 4 speed auto with OD. Came from 81 corona 22r powered. Wont work, going to manual 5 speed. w55 hopefully, havent acquired replacement tranny.

Here are the first couple obstacles i have ran into.
-A40d transmission is too long/big to comfortably fit in the transmission tunnel of the rt52. Going to now convert over to a manual, will need pedals and master cylinder converted, as well as clutch line ran.

-stock motor mounts for the 3rc are same bolting pattern as the 22r in a pickup truck. using a 4x4 truck mounting bracket the mounts are too wide for where it sits. Was hoping maybe another platform toyota that used a r engine might have narrower mounts that bolt onto the engine block. I will attach a few photos so you can see what im talking about.

-carb setup/air filter might be too tall for the hood, will deal with this down the road. side drafts?

with the oil pan resting on the subframe i have about 1/2" between the frame and the engine mount

What year engine and mounts you using what issues you havin so far I'm contemplating this on my rt52

I currently have the brackets out of a 4x4 truck mounted on the engine. The mounts that i want to use are the stock 3r rt52 mounts. the 4x4 brackets make the current setup too wide by approximately 1".

the current setup with a 2wd 22r pan seems that its going to clearance the steering linkage in the back and clear the front subframe just fine.

what i was hoping to find was that corona or celica motor mount brackets(part on engine block) would be a little narrower than the truck chassis brackets.

my current thought is to make my own poly urethane mounts that are about 1/2 as tall as the original 3r rt52 mounts, this is a lot of work if some brackets more or less will bolt in.

anyone got some insight on 22r engine brackets?

Here are some images of various areas of the vehicle. Plans are to keep most of this as original/stock as possible. I know people enjoy pictures so here are some for peoples reference.