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 Post subject: yellow zinc resto.
PostPosted: Tue Jan 26, 2010 12:33 pm 

Joined: Thu Aug 07, 2008 11:15 am
Posts: 40
Location: las vegas, NV
has anyone used this paint to restore the yellow zinc plated stuff under the hood.
http://www.eastwood.com/new-golden-cad-system-w-diamond-clear.html


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 11:45 pm 

Joined: Fri Sep 11, 2009 11:10 pm
Posts: 34
Location: Arizona
Have not used the paint, I went to a local plating shop and had all my hardware re-plated when rebuilding my 7M.

They charge about $50-60 for a large coffee can full of hardware.

From what I have heard, other shops have a similar deal going on.

I am plenty happy with the results.

Image

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 01, 2010 11:41 am 

Joined: Thu Aug 07, 2008 11:15 am
Posts: 40
Location: las vegas, NV
that's a good looking 7m.
i going to call some local shops. i have a pretty big list of stuff. car is 81 celica, all the throttle linkage stuff, cruisecontrol stuff, brake booster, hand full of clamps, lots of nuts bolts studs, and some hooks and brackets.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 01, 2010 2:27 pm 
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Location: Sydney, Australia
I think you'll find that an industrial electroplater will more or less charge you the same price for one piece as for a small container of pieces.

A good tip tho is that if you want the finished product to be shiny like factory gold cad plating, then you should polish the parts before handing then over. A dull finish on the metal before plating means it'll be dull yellow after.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 01, 2010 3:07 pm 
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Joined: Mon Feb 05, 2007 7:58 am
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Location: Lake Worth, TX
I might have to get that done to some parts on my MR2's motor.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 01, 2010 4:12 pm 

Joined: Thu Aug 07, 2008 11:15 am
Posts: 40
Location: las vegas, NV
Quote:
A good tip tho is that if you want the finished product to be shiny like factory gold cad plating, then you should polish the parts before handing then over. A dull finish on the metal before plating means it'll be dull yellow after.


thanks i would not think of that. definitely good to know.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 01, 2010 4:49 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 26, 2007 7:51 pm
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Location: Sydney, Australia
bob380sx wrote:
Quote:
A good tip tho is that if you want the finished product to be shiny like factory gold cad plating, then you should polish the parts before handing then over. A dull finish on the metal before plating means it'll be dull yellow after.


thanks i would not think of that. definitely good to know.


The plating is essentially transparent, so it's a bit like spraying a yellow clearcoat over the part, so you do have to shine them up with some scotchbrite or actual metal polish, which means you have to remove any corrosion with a wire brush first.

It's not like chrome, where relatively speaking, a thick layer goes on top of the metal.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 03, 2010 7:38 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 26, 2007 7:51 pm
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Location: Sydney, Australia
rkkopra73 wrote:
Don't bother with the Eastwood product you will not be happy with the results. It looks like a painted part when you get done... because it is. you just cant reproduce the subtle color wash of gold cad. I gave this stuff a try in the restoration shop i work at. Once. Thats all it took to know the product wasn't for us

There's a bit of talk on that Eastwood stuff on the www.classiczcars.com. forum, and it seems that there's a knack to it and it takes some practice to get it right. But I agree, it's not quite as professional looking as getting it done properly, but for minor stuff like nuts and bolts it would be good enough IMHO.

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