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 Post subject: Re: "Project Turquoise" KE20 build
PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2014 10:37 am 
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Joined: Fri Aug 03, 2012 6:48 am
Posts: 111
Location: Montreal, Canada
JDMwhiteboy wrote:
Amazing build so far! I dont hate you for leaving the holley set up. (I did haha). The sidedrafts are just much more cleaner of a set up. I cannot wait to hear videos of this thing.


Yeah, well I got a huge deal on the DCOE so the holley and intake is waiting on a shelf, I have a couple ideas for it ;)

Anyway, might as well update while I'm here. I've been pretty busy lately but manage to put a couple hours on the corolla. First I'm halfway through an AE86 rack depowering job... also decided to shorten the rack and cut more teeth for crazy angle madness... cut 8 extra teeth and shorten the housing by 52mm, giving me over 2" more travel at around 200mm... with my 110mm steering knuckle that should amount to "a lot of angle". I'll have to get a 2:1 steering quickner in there since 5 turn lock to lock is not so awesome. So expect lots of boring pictures about rack modification and depowering once it's completed.

Aside from the rack, I manage to do a bit of this

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Results : cam center line is 108/108 on bluetop cams instead of the factory 111/111. 3 degres off resulting in more overlap. Actually the smallport cams are setup 108/108 from the factory. All in all it's way better than the old porsche t-belt trick :D

Also, forgot to show off my awesome idler brackets lol

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So everything is now bolted solid instead of hanging on hopes and dreams

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I also manage to goof around and do useless things... but I love symmetry ;)

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Got to repaint the intake cover though...

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1977 Toyota Corolla TE31 (traded)
1974 Toyota Corolla KE20 (Project)
2003 Toyota Celica ZZT230 (Daily)


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 Post subject: Re: "Project Turquoise" KE20 build
PostPosted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 12:09 pm 
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Joined: Fri Aug 03, 2012 6:48 am
Posts: 111
Location: Montreal, Canada
Well it's been some time since the last update.

I decided that the stock steering box on my peanut wasn't going to cut it and since I'm a cheap bastard, paying big bucks for a manual MR2 rack or what ever was never an option. So I got a free AE86 powersteering rack from a friend out of a wrecked Kouki and set out to turn it into something nice.

So I pulled every seal from it, both on the pinion and both on the rack and depowered it for good. First I remove the piston since it was limiting travel on the driver side, binding inside the tube...

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...remove the control valve and welded shut the fitting on the pinion housing...

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...and welded the pinion in one piece...

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...effectively and cheaply turning the PS rack into a manual one for nothing more than 0.05$ worth of welding wire and gas ;)

Then you hear all the hipe around going with a manual steering because of all the extra awesome angle it gives you...

...so I did this

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And since I have no mounting points on the crossmember, why play with a freaking long spacer when you can cut the rack to length (welded the fittings while at it)

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So the travel went from this

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to this

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Take that MR2 rack!

Oh only trouble is the 4.75 turn lock to lock... but I'll get a steering quickner 2:1 on the column to get rid of that.

So all that's left is electroplate the tube and throw it all back together.

I also manage to seal the external oil pump. It lives in the suzuki oil pan so engineers didn't bother to seal it so here's what I did :

Cut a groove in the shaft

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To fit a o-ring in there

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All hidding away just on the lip of the case

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For the 2 halves, the shape of the pump didn't allow to use an o-ring so I cut a groove and will use RTV to seal both halves

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Since that pump will be running very low pressure, it should be able to keep oil inside... now that's the theory, lets see how it goes in practice.

_________________
1977 Toyota Corolla TE31 (traded)
1974 Toyota Corolla KE20 (Project)
2003 Toyota Celica ZZT230 (Daily)


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 Post subject: Re: "Project Turquoise" KE20 build
PostPosted: Wed Jul 02, 2014 8:24 pm 
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Joined: Fri Aug 03, 2012 6:48 am
Posts: 111
Location: Montreal, Canada
Well, lots of things happened.

I redid the oil pump bracket. Old one was not cutting it and since I intend to build motor mounts from scratch, might as well use that bracket for both purposes. Made it out of 1/4" plate so I can tap M8 for the 3 bolt holding down the pump and not worry about thread engagement and crap... and it should hold the engine and the oil pump without flexing ;)

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So this is what the front should look like ("should" if nothing changes again). I modded the pump pulley (which is also why I needed to change the bracket since the offset was changed by 3/16").

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And bonus, welding skills are slowly getting better

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Got some big time help from the little man to pull the pan... soooo many M6 bolts in there ;)

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To make room for my new home made drysump :

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Shallow?

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It's now drying outside... decided to dip it in unthinned eurethane paint to add a thick layer of protection and I couldn't paint inside the gutter any other way. Did the trick but takes forever to dry.

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I modified the flange to fit the 7A cutaway on the intake side, wish I had a 20v windage tray to start with, would've been a bit easier and cleaner... anyway, the damn ARP rod bolt protrude by 3.5mm... and they do not clear the pan. Luckily, I need to pull the crank to get it balanced with the flywheel/clutch combo so I'll chop the end of all rod bolts to get the crank to turn over.

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Damn japanese : you buy a flywheel...

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...and they ship you a frisbee ;)

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Hahaha I have yet to pull the crank and throw all that back to my machinist for balancing.

And I also got my hands ona really nice steering wheel, same color as my interior

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And nobody can argue that it's not MINE ;)

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Work also happened on the shell

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Did that without a cherry picker... alone... thing is heavy but not "that" heavy. All that's left in the engine bay is the BMC and the steering linkage. Now I'll be able to take care of the rust, because the frame rails are looking bad!!!

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I'll have to fab a new tranny crossmember with the new engine placement that will be both lower and farther to the rear to keep balance on the chassis... but I guess fabbing a new tranny crossmember won't hurt ;)

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_________________
1977 Toyota Corolla TE31 (traded)
1974 Toyota Corolla KE20 (Project)
2003 Toyota Celica ZZT230 (Daily)


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 Post subject: Re: "Project Turquoise" KE20 build
PostPosted: Thu Jul 03, 2014 10:38 am 

Joined: Wed May 16, 2012 6:37 pm
Posts: 66
Location: Louisville, KY
It looks like you are doing a great job with some creative engineering on this car! One word of warning though regarding the use of an o-ring on the oil pump shaft. An o-ring will typically not hold at all to friction. You will probably need to machine the oil pump case to accept a small lip seal like you would find on the timing belt driven oil pump from a Camry with a 5SFE. 4-cyl Honda Accords have small lip seal on the balance shaft and oil pump as well.

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'67 Datsun 411 SSS - '68 RT40 Corona - '79 Corolla Coupe - '80 Corolla Liftback - '80 Corolla Coupe - '83 Corolla Wagon - '85 AE86 Coupe - '86 AE86 Coupe - '87 AE86 Coupe


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 Post subject: Re: "Project Turquoise" KE20 build
PostPosted: Tue Jul 08, 2014 5:52 pm 
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Joined: Fri Aug 03, 2012 6:48 am
Posts: 111
Location: Montreal, Canada
Thanks for the advice although there is not a lot of place for such a seal to fit on the case. I've heard that o-ring could held up but I do agree that it's not a perfect solution :?

Everything fits like a glove

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Except : being LHD, guess where the rack pinion goes? So I might have to trade my awesome rack for a stock one if I want it to stand a chance of fitting it along that silly engine. Or it may be time to find a clean RHD shell somewhere... ;)

Got the cam cover painted as well... turn out nicer than expected

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Now can't wait to show up in a garage and ask for an oil check up lol

So here it is. Everything is fitting perfectly except for a couple little things on the coolant side that shall be tweeked a bit... so time to rip it apart, get the crank/flywheel/clutch balanced, chop the rod bolts, electroplate and paint what has been fabricated and throw it all back together... for the last time before startup.. I hope!

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1977 Toyota Corolla TE31 (traded)
1974 Toyota Corolla KE20 (Project)
2003 Toyota Celica ZZT230 (Daily)


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 Post subject: Re: "Project Turquoise" KE20 build
PostPosted: Sun Jul 13, 2014 7:28 pm 
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Joined: Fri Aug 03, 2012 6:48 am
Posts: 111
Location: Montreal, Canada
Well, finally got to fix my mistake from a little while ago

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One last thing to tweek concerning the coolant routing and then it's disassembly time... for the last time I wish.

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1977 Toyota Corolla TE31 (traded)
1974 Toyota Corolla KE20 (Project)
2003 Toyota Celica ZZT230 (Daily)


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 Post subject: Re: "Project Turquoise" KE20 build
PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2014 6:50 pm 
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Joined: Fri Aug 03, 2012 6:48 am
Posts: 111
Location: Montreal, Canada
And manage to improve on the oil cooler water routing a bit.

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Old setup had the hot side go back behind the water pump housing to be recirculated in the system. New setup has the hot water routed directly out to the rad.

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I'm going to pick up a nice all alloy civic rad that a friend got in a bundle part deal, 2 or 3 rows can't remember.

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1977 Toyota Corolla TE31 (traded)
1974 Toyota Corolla KE20 (Project)
2003 Toyota Celica ZZT230 (Daily)


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 Post subject: Re: "Project Turquoise" KE20 build
PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2014 8:58 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 05, 2011 5:53 pm
Posts: 329
Location: Bay Area, California
Astonishing!

So cool to watch your progress. Thanks so much for sharing.

:tu:


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 Post subject: Re: "Project Turquoise" KE20 build
PostPosted: Tue Jul 22, 2014 9:47 am 
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Joined: Fri Aug 03, 2012 6:48 am
Posts: 111
Location: Montreal, Canada
Well, for now the crank is sitting next to the engine bolted to the flywheel awaiting a trip to the machinist... and the engine is literally in pieces, quite a sad picture lol

Meanwhile, finally got my hands on a head that fits my home made DCOE manifold :)

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I also got a really nice rad

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It's for some kind of honda civic don't really know and care... all I know is that the hoses are on the right side and the core fits in the hole like it was made to go there.

Here it is next to it's stock counterpart, off an A/T civic... should have sufficient cooling.

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1977 Toyota Corolla TE31 (traded)
1974 Toyota Corolla KE20 (Project)
2003 Toyota Celica ZZT230 (Daily)


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 Post subject: Re: "Project Turquoise" KE20 build
PostPosted: Thu Sep 04, 2014 2:43 am 
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Joined: Wed Sep 18, 2013 8:02 pm
Posts: 571
Location: Hong Kong
This thread just continues getting better and better, and I'm constantly amazed at your level of workmanship!! :tu:
I can only wish I too had that kind of talent.
Keep up the great work - the end result will be sooooo satisfying... :P

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It's not what you drive - it's how you drive it...

Best Regards,
Anders.

JDM '77 Toyota Trueno Sprinter 1600GT (TE61)
+ a handful of classic BMW's from the 60's and 70's.


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 Post subject: Re: "Project Turquoise" KE20 build
PostPosted: Fri Oct 03, 2014 7:28 am 
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Joined: Fri Aug 03, 2012 6:48 am
Posts: 111
Location: Montreal, Canada
Alright, got off my butts, engine is on the backburner awaiting reassembly but I need a shell to throw it in so this happened

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Tore the steering box away from the column... litteraly cut it off as it's the most retarded steering box I've ever seen... anyway all the steering linkage is out as well as what was remaining under the car : hand brake cables and the exhaust...

..which is rotten to oblivion... but anyway who would use that?

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So the painful art of welding on my back upside down began...

Here is my amazing frame rails... when you can see right through it before hitting it with the wire wheel, you know you're in for a lot of crap...

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Yeah, it's bad... so bad that I couldn't remove the crossmember as there is no place for the axle stands anywhere else... and this is not a good place for them right now lol

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Luckily, the back section is mint

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Remaking the front section after cutting out the rotten part

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and reskin on top... I redid them as toyota did 40 years ago... I have some plans to reinforce the chassis but I first want to bring it back to stock specs before modding it.

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Yeah, I've got a driver side frame rail !!!

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Now on to the much worst passenger side

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Well the passenger side was a real PITA... got tired in the end so welding looks a bit crappier... but it's all very solid and above all : rot free :D

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And suddenly that engine is about to get a whole lot nastier than originally planned...

Turbo ready!!!





















...not LOL
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reduced compression height for even looooooooonger rods hehehe

So while the engine is stripped all over again awaiting the rods and all, I scrambled together a little mockup in the engine bay while the crossmember was still in there before attacking rust on the frame rails

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Oh yeah! Decided on a 4° lean to the driver side and 4° lean backward to help put the oil drain at the lowest point. You've got to love the 3/4" plywood between the head and block to serve as a deck spacer to get the old bluetop block deack height at around 210mm (the 7A is 206mm but I figured an little extra clearance shouldn't hurt)

So I slammed it in the firewall
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The head is not inline with the block : I need to shave the bump in the firewall for it go where I want it to. Clearly visible on the picture.
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And thank god I used a short tail housing on my late T50 tranny because even then, it's a bit too far back. Longtail housing would've been on the handbrake or too close for confort. The whole motor/tranny assembly is a good 40mm back compared to dropping it in the 3K engine mounts
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So I dropped the engine until I got 1/2" clearance between the pan and the crossmember... lots of room on top ;)
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Once the steering lock brackets will be cut, the oil fitting will clear no problem
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But my biggest fear was the interference bettwen the oil pickup and the rack... but it clears with room to spare. Check the clearance with the crossmember ;)
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Fits like daddy in mommy ;)
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Even the darn header is litterally bolt-on, the flange connecting the front pipe bearly hits a heat shield bracket on the floor, but nothing a grinder will not cure... and lets not forget about the extra 4mm clearance using the real engine.
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I also mocked up the rad to confirm that I had almost too much clearance
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So no major hurdles with that. I'm also stoked that the AE86 header fits so nicely on that chassis... using a taller block.

So stay tuned, lots of good things are comming!

_________________
1977 Toyota Corolla TE31 (traded)
1974 Toyota Corolla KE20 (Project)
2003 Toyota Celica ZZT230 (Daily)


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 Post subject: Re: "Project Turquoise" KE20 build
PostPosted: Fri Oct 03, 2014 8:28 pm 
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Joined: Wed Sep 18, 2013 8:02 pm
Posts: 571
Location: Hong Kong
Great work - as always! :wink:
Loving the way you are returning the body to stock before modding it.
Keep at it mate... :tu:

_________________
It's not what you drive - it's how you drive it...

Best Regards,
Anders.

JDM '77 Toyota Trueno Sprinter 1600GT (TE61)
+ a handful of classic BMW's from the 60's and 70's.


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 Post subject: Re: "Project Turquoise" KE20 build
PostPosted: Sun Oct 05, 2014 12:08 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 30, 2012 4:36 pm
Posts: 369
Location: Coarsegold California (around fresno)
Ahh! the frame rail rust got you too. I will be tackeling this on my 27 this year. any tips. Your car and engine are looking good. Dry sump! -you crazy!

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See my 76 Corolla build: http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=19630


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 Post subject: Re: "Project Turquoise" KE20 build
PostPosted: Mon Oct 06, 2014 2:46 pm 
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Joined: Fri Aug 03, 2012 6:48 am
Posts: 111
Location: Montreal, Canada
Thanks guys!

For the frame rail I just redid it the way toyota did it at first... I cut the whole section that was rusted but manage to keep a section of it in place so no question about placement and things, it's where it's supposed to be. Just be patient, try and bend a single piece to replace what you cut and weld all the seams where your cuts where made and spot everywhere else where you overlap two sheet. It's not fun but it's pretty rewarding.

Oh and I know I'm crazy... and there is no cure for that lol ;)

P.S. that engine in the last picture is just a bare 4A block, the real engine is hidding in the shed...

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1977 Toyota Corolla TE31 (traded)
1974 Toyota Corolla KE20 (Project)
2003 Toyota Celica ZZT230 (Daily)


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