Well.... it took me forever... but The J160 is now test fitted (no clutch inside the bell housing). Being early summer, many of my helpers are busy, and so I had to figure this one out for myself.

The first thing I had to do was find a lifting point* that is steady.... there isn't one on the bottom of the J160, the LEEN adapter, although flat, is too far forward of the balance point, so I had to improvise.........

* - normally this isn't an issue when I'm using a T50, the T50 is just light enough for me to man handle in and out, well the J160 is another 25#s, just too heavy for me to man handle


Borrowing from my early fabrication (fuel and wiring location) I again used a bit of wood



besides the pieces on the jack, if you are sharp eyed you'll see the spine of the transmission nestles into the top block of wood. Using some of my old woodworking tools, I cut, and shaped a 2x4 block so that it fit the transmission case casting.


With a somewhat steady lifting point, I raise the transmission into place....



you can just barely see the wood supporting it all at the edge of the photo. I run a couple of engine/trans bolts in, and snug them down.

I look to see if all of my measurements, and fabrication of the body look good....

here the shifter cup just clears the cross member



Here the radius-ed chassis, and selector rod clearance



It all looks good... VERY good actually



So the mounting holes are determined...., drilled, adjusted a bit for accuracy....

A few views of a LEEN J160 neatly nestled into the transmission tunnel of an AE71







I DO plan on reinforcing this... my idea for this is welding a metal spine along each side of the plate - along the line I drawn. Note that the spine will join the drop and support it as well. Also note the dark triangle shaped marker area on the right side... that will be material removed so the speedo cable has clearance.


before....




after......








That's enough for today, I"ll remove the mount tomorrow, bring it to David for finalizing, and reinforcing.

I'll also have to remove the transmission and get the new clutch in there.... so more to come

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So... now that there is a new transmission, we need a driveshaft. A few months back XNC (Johnny) hooked me up with a front half of a W5x driveshaft from a Supra.



I hadn't noticed @ that time the fact that the front section are the same length.

Before I installed the 2 transmissions, I performed one "test" that I was not able to photograph.

Having both transmission sitting on their bell housings... I slipped the driveshaft from the W5 into the J160, and I slipped the T50 driveshaft into the T50. Using my tape measure to measure from the edge of the starter(remember both have the same bell) back to the flange where the 2 driveshafts bolt together.....



The difference......... all of 3/8"

The J160 + Supra front shaft = 3/8" longer then the T50 + T50 shaft.... so I brought both up to this place - http://www.sixstates.com/products/products.jsp and they will shorten the Supra shaft 3/8", add a new carrier bearing*, and balance the whole assembly


* - https://www.powertrainindustries.com/catalogs_type.htm?type=Center+Supports part number 2380-40

It should be ready either Friday(6/29), or Monday(7/2)....

more to come

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Well... with the S series 3.58 final drive... in reality... I don't need any gears beyond the first 4


Sooooooo... its time to swap in a final drive more appropriate. Here is Richmond Racing's 3.9 T series diff...... (originally for Legends/Dwarf cars) fitted into a GT-S housing.



The Richmond is assembled with zenki spider gears... so zenki axles are the call. The emergency brake cables need a fabricated bracket on the driverside(thank you Jesse), and a zip tie around the axle hop line mount to secure the passenger side cable.


Now... along with the diff, I have to swap in a different brake proportioning valve, because instead of drum brakes... I'm now running rear discs.




Doing some research All AE86 drum brake cars use valve 22040, while the GT-S uses valve 12040. I then look up my car, and low and behold, the valve is the same as a drum brake AE86 - 22040. So even though I have a different master cylinder, AND the proportioning valve is mounted slightly lower, the lines will not have to be customized to fit the GT-S valve! So I remove the drum brake valve, and swap in the GT-S valve. Then I go about bleeding the brakes. At this point brake bleeding can be a REAL pain... because there is no longer any fluid in the master OR the proportioning valve... so I go about palm bleeding. What is palm bleeding??? You fill the master most of the way, and you put your palm over the reservoir and work your hand like you would a toilet plunger.... This slowly pumps the fluid through the master, and the proportioning valve allowing me to circulate the fluid without having to pump the brake pedal, or use a power bleeder.


All new TRD suspension bushings will tighten up the whole rear end keeping the axle properly placed under the back of the car. Many folks don't know but there is a right way... and a wrong way to install TRD suspension bushings....... Care was used to install the bushings correctly.


More to come.......

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Nice work buddy !

If you still have that 3.58:1 S type diff kicking around, a friend of mine with a 3RZ-FZE swapped AE86 would be glad to take if off your hands Let me know !

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1977 Toyota Corolla TE31 (traded)
1974 Toyota Corolla KE20 (Project)

I do... I'm asking $120 - http://hachiroku.net/forums/showthread.php?t=33112 I'm also hoping for a local buyer because shipping this will be a royal pain....

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Yeah I do understand... if you even want to part it out, the ring gear (or the whole center since it's easier to disassemble) would be the only thing my friend needs. I'll let him know anyway just in case.

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1977 Toyota Corolla TE31 (traded)
1974 Toyota Corolla KE20 (Project)

question...i'm a total newb right now in the planning/researching stage. with the J160 tranny, what other driveshaft would fit into it? pardon me but please avoid using OE codes like W55/T50 etc. b/c I have not a clue at this moment and wouldn't be able to keep up. my situation is this, i'm looking to acquire one of the many BEAMS engines on ebay for my RT52 corona project. Only a few of them include the driveshaft and those are ones that are not in the best looking condition and/or they also come with a whole bunch of other stuff that I don't want. I want to get just the engine/trans but am worried of not being able to figure out what driveshaft to use. can you please shed some light? thanks. Ray

Is your Corona a 5spd? Yes? The yoke from a 5spd Corona should fit the J160 trasmission. Length you may need to have a driveline shop customize the length

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I don't know. It has a 5spd shift knob on it but I didn't think a 68 corona came with 5....the car is in pieces.

Would you mind taking a straight on shot of the yoke and/or output shaft with a ruler so I can see the diameter and count the splines? Thanks.

I wouldn't mind... if it wasn't all assembled and installed. The yoke I used was from a 1982 Supra

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OK thanks for the info. Do you know of others that might fit too?

70s-80s 5spd Corona, Celica I know use a W5x gearbox. What I don't know is if all the yokes are the same.

That is why I said the specific car I got mine from

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