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PostPosted: Sat Aug 08, 2009 11:39 pm 
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Datsunrides wrote:
How much too short is the manifold? Sound like a perfect excuse to shave the heads and block to up the compression!

Its either 1/8" or 1/4", I forget. I'll re-check tomorrow (just measuring the manifold vs. the other manifold I have shows the difference).

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1970 Subaru FF-1 Coupe viewtopic.php?t=3002
1995 Subaru Impreza (2.5 RS Swap)


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 08, 2009 11:40 pm 
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zukiru wrote:
are those the exhaust ports on the ends of the heads?

Indeed. Front and back, just like some of those old air-cooled VW motors.

Due to the suspension/subframe of the FF-1, I have to run those kind of heads.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 09, 2009 5:02 am 
1/8" is probably doable, 1/16" per side. 1/4" may be a bit much to cut out.

Mark


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 09, 2009 9:57 am 
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maybe you could go the other way

any round top pistons available?


or...

I would love to see something like a solex/mikuni for each side.
is the coolant crossover in the intake?

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 09, 2009 10:15 am 
There is a guy on USMB that has a set of 4 port heads that were modified for IDA's. Linkage may be interesting to fab unless a VW one could be modified. There is a coolant crossover in the manifold, so not practical to cut/weld. What do you mean by round top? Did you mean flat top? If so, that is what the stock pistons are. To up the compression without machining the block or heads would require pop up pistons or welding up the combustion chamber.

Mark


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 09, 2009 11:35 am 
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The CR should be going up anyway using these smaller heads.

I think its closer to 1/8", but I'm not 100% sure, mostly because the way the block is designed and the way the manifold sits, its actually angled slightly. Which means i'd have to do some precise measurements and use some trigonometry to figure it out exactly.

However, I do recall someone posting over on USMB that there is a difference in JDM motors and he had a precise number...

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 09, 2009 11:47 am 
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Ya, here is that post from someone in Japan:

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/sho ... tcount=682

Apparently there was a "higher compression" motor, probably the "Sport" (dual carb) motor that used that manifold.

Well, that probably means the block on that motor was indeed a shaved block probably with wet sleeves though (I do have a 1400 block sitting around... Custom sleeves in that perhaps?)

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 09, 2009 1:40 pm 
Without saying for sure, you can probably get away with machining the block to get a zero deck and shaving the heads to get the rest, within reason. If the compression ratio gets too high with all the machining, you can always open up the combustion chambers in the head to increase the volume and reduce the ratio. Also, if your close on the manifold, you could drill the holes a size or 2 over to make up the difference? Maybe there is a slight width difference between the early and late EA71's?

Mark


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2009 7:21 am 
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since they are flat opped already you would need a dome top piston to raise the ratio.
if you added gaskets you would need to do something to keep from losing compression or go turbo.

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datsunfreak wrote:
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 16, 2009 4:14 pm 
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Sometimes it doesn't take that much effort to make 40 year old parts look new...

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 16, 2009 5:53 pm 
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Got a before pic?

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 16, 2009 9:06 pm 
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ben wrote:
Got a before pic?

Its back a few posts:

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2009 3:06 pm 
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I see now that above, I had the direction you needed to go back wards the weber mani is too short not too long...

ym lysdexia kicking in again.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 23, 2009 4:19 pm 
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Well, I spent ALL day today trying to do body work on the car... Just started with the doors, trunk and front fenders.

I totally suck at body filler/bondo :|

Every spot I tried to fix now looks worse...

I just don't have the patience for all this sanding. And I have no clue how to do it properly, despite all the tips i've gotten about how to do i.

I'd much rather pay someone to do this, but nobody is willing to do it for an amount I can afford right now.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 23, 2009 6:22 pm 
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The body didn't look like it needed a lot of work in the photos... :?


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 23, 2009 6:51 pm 
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datsunfreak wrote:
The body didn't look like it needed a lot of work in the photos... :?

Image
Every little red mark is an area that needs filler.

And thats only part of the car...

I didn't do anything on the chassis yet, I started out with the trunk and doors and fenders since I figured it would be easier to work with and easier to clean up.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 23, 2009 8:31 pm 
Try to not get discouraged. It takes time to get even semi-good at body work. Took me many years to figure it out to the point I can do a fairly good job. Couple tips I can give you is use good quality filler. Go to an autobody supply house and get one of their products. Bondo and such from the parts stores is not very good and is much more difficult to work with. When you sand, start with a coarse grit like 36/40 to get the initial cut, step down to 80 for general shaping and then 120 for final shaping. The use of a longboard is a must for a good finish. You want to spread the repair over an area larger than the dent itself to "blend" it in. Once you have the filler done, use a product known as icing to provide a finished coating over the filler that will smooth it and fill the pinholes that will be there. I like to use a high build primer over the repair then guide coat it followed by block sanding to make sure averything look good. The guide coat will show high/low spots in your repair. Practice make perfect..... and body work does suck.

Mark


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 23, 2009 9:12 pm 
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Well I can't blame the materials, I did my research on that first of course...

Image

It sanded quite well, and there were no "pin holes" other than the gaps that I managed to leave from my crappy application of the stuff...

My biggest problem is I hate sanding, and 90% of this is sanding, I just don't have that kind of patience.

Now you are telling me there are like 3 other steps I should be doing I didn't know about, and i'm even more discouraged :|

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 5:04 am 
You have a very good filler there. I personally am not a fan of the "cheese graters" (the file thing). I see you have flexable sanding blocks in your pic. If that is what you are using for sanding, I can see why you are having problems. Get yourself a longboard (it's a solid wood piece that has handles on both ends) and an air powered body file if you can swing it. It will make the task bearable and give you a much better result. I'm getting ready to start doing bodywork to my Toyota wagon and can post up a few pics of the process I use, or you could swing by for a tutorial in a few weeks.

Mark


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 3:03 pm 
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Datsunrides wrote:
an air powered body file if you can swing it....


I used an electric D/A sander since I didn't have a compressor at home. Worked very well. :tu:


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