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PostPosted: Sat Jun 05, 2010 2:47 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 18, 2009 9:22 am
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Location: Netherlands
Put her back on wheels and the ground, couldnat wait any longer, wanted to see how it looks.

Image

Image

Ridicilously low, awfull lot of camber, all needs to be sorted.


Little miscalculation here, have to fix that too :)

Image

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 05, 2010 11:46 pm 
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Location: Somewhere in the desert, NM
I'm going to be keeping an eye on you and your mods. I really like the direction your going with your C30 and might need some of your experience with the mod for advice on my KC30 if I end up going the same route.

Looks great!


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 11, 2010 1:35 pm 
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fixed it :)

Image

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 14, 2010 5:37 pm 
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Very cool! Thanks for taking us on this journey :)

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 14, 2010 7:11 pm 
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Location: Somewhere in the desert, NM
It's looking good! So what caused/fixed the forward wheel positioning? Crossmember or tension rod positioning?

For the rear subframe, would the S13 be a tad narrower and fit?

Keep up the good work! I'm definitely taking notes.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 9:05 am 
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the forward wheel positioning was caused by the front crossmember, or actually me placing the crossmember to much to the front of the car.
i replaced it 5.5cm backwards, made new enginemounts so i could place the engine forward again 5.5cm, now the lca sits in a correct position so the wheel is in a correct position too.
engine is as far back to the firewall as possible.

new problem rised: because of the forward positioning of the engine, the anti roll bar is now hitting the sump. cant be too much of a problem to solve that.

as for the s13 rear subframe: it is only 3 cm smaller than an s14 one if i remember correctly. so i dont think that will fit.
i jacked up the car at the rear last night to take of the fuel tank since i have to make a return etc on it. so i had a good look at the rear subframe. i really have no idea if the diff. will take the extra power from the sr20, i guess i will know when i take it for a drive soon :)

i will take an s14 rear subframe this weekend and put it under the car to see how it fits.

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1973 610 Wagon
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 19, 2010 3:58 am 
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Location: Somewhere in the desert, NM
Eric, I would love to have any and all info you're willing to share regarding the details of the swap. Lessons learned, etc. I just found out today I can get an S13 blacktop SR20DET and the entire running gear (suspension/drivetrain) at a deal I can't pass up. So I'm now getting any and all info I come across for this swap. I have a short time frame (about a month) to get it in and running to ensure I can ship it on time. With the short time, I won't be able to have everything (A/C, dash gauges, etc) working, but I will be able to take care of those things on the other side of the ocean.
Are you planning to use the modern power steering and A/C?

I did research the S13/14 rear subframe, and I forgot that the rear trackwidth on them is narrower than the front, so that should not be an issue.
I've decided that I want the entire S13 suspension, so I'll see how that idea works...

Any help and tips you can give would be appreciated!

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 20, 2010 1:19 am 
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Just ask me what you want to know, by email or messenger or PM. i will be more than happy to share my knowledge with you :)
i have been taking pictures of almost everything i have done.

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1970 C30 Laurel
1972 240Z
1973 610 Wagon
1977 260Z
1995 Micra
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 26, 2010 8:45 am 
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today i have been playing with tension rods.
i needed to make brackets for them but this wasnt as easy as i hoped it would be.
after some thinking i took this:

Image

and grinded it into this:

Image

Image

Do you think this will do the job?
or does it need further modification?

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1970 C30 Laurel
1972 240Z
1973 610 Wagon
1977 260Z
1995 Micra
1999 200SX


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 09, 2010 5:04 am 
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Finally, time to do stuff to my car.

I have been playing with the suspension and tension rods for ages to get it fit like i wanted it to fit, never succeeded.

And then i got an idea :)

I took of the oilpan, and did this to it:

Image

filled it with water to test if it was leakfree:

Image

and it was :)

Now i could place the anti roll bar were i wanted it to be, and make my tension rods.

I bought two of these:
Image

angle grinded the std. tension rods in half, took a piece of pipe and welded it on the half tension rod with the uniball attached to the other end.

now they are a few cms longer then before and i can make a proper bracket for them and because of the uniballs i can adjust them too.

i ordered a big aluminium 240z radiator from ebay to solve the radiator issue, the std. one wouldnt fit anymore because of the inlet and outlet beinig in the wrong place.

i ordered an external fuelpump, and foam to put in the tank to prevent the fuel from slapping around.

i took off the std. fueltank and was a little bit surprised when i had it off.

Image

there is the filler neck on the right side, the fuel pickup on top and two other pipes on the left side.
i look into the tank and the lower one of the two seems to be a pickup to, or maybe a return, there is a piece of pipe on the insede of the tank almost to the bottom of the tank.
the lower one just stops on the inside of the tank, leading to nowere.

both of them were capped of with a piece of rubber hose and a bolt in it, leaving them unused.

To be continued soon!

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Japanseklassiekers!

1970 C30 Laurel
1972 240Z
1973 610 Wagon
1977 260Z
1995 Micra
1999 200SX


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 09, 2010 1:12 pm 
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Location: Netherlands
Image

Image

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1970 C30 Laurel
1972 240Z
1973 610 Wagon
1977 260Z
1995 Micra
1999 200SX


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 11, 2010 1:01 am 
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Location: Somewhere in the desert, NM
Eric wrote:
i took off the std. fueltank and was a little bit surprised when i had it off.
Image
there is the filler neck on the right side, the fuel pickup on top and two other pipes on the left side.
i look into the tank and the lower one of the two seems to be a pickup to, or maybe a return, there is a piece of pipe on the insede of the tank almost to the bottom of the tank.
the lower one just stops on the inside of the tank, leading to nowere.
both of them were capped of with a piece of rubber hose and a bolt in it, leaving them unused.

Glad to see the progress! For your fuel tank, here's the way it was set up for mine and had been untouched from factory, using your picture as reference:
Lower right -- of course the filler neck
Upper right -- the fuel filler neck vent tube
Lower left -- fuel pickup for engine fuel feed line
Upper left -- fuel return (was not used/capped)
How's your tank, was it full on debris at all?

What fuel pump did you end up using and where'd you put it?
Again, good to see the progress!

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 11, 2010 7:08 am 
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Joined: Fri Dec 18, 2009 9:22 am
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I already figured out were the pipes were used for, but thanks for the tips :)

the fuelpump i used was this one:
http://biesheuvel.nl/store/product/949/ ... pomp_3_bar

i mounted it under the car, onder the trunk just behind the rear seats on the right side of the car.
after sieing the pictures of your tank i was quite surprised how clean mine is. just some black stufff i wiped away as good as i could.

think i will get an extra little filter like you did, just to make sure my brand new pump will survive :)

when i mounted the fuel tank back under the car i discovered this:

Image

so i took it back off and fixed it, hope it is leakfreee now:

Image

I guess this is why there was an extra fuel pickup created on top of the tank, another mystery solved :)

after this i didnt feel like doing any more stuff to it and went home.
next job will be making new fuel lines under the car, i guess i can use the old fuel line as a return line so i only need to make 1 new.

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Japanseklassiekers!

1970 C30 Laurel
1972 240Z
1973 610 Wagon
1977 260Z
1995 Micra
1999 200SX


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 12, 2010 12:14 am 
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will the std. 6mm pickup be able to supply enough fuel for the new engine? if put a 8mm fuelohuse on it and the pump is 8mm too but i starts at the tank with a 6mm pickup..

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Japanseklassiekers!

1970 C30 Laurel
1972 240Z
1973 610 Wagon
1977 260Z
1995 Micra
1999 200SX


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 12, 2010 1:18 am 
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Location: Somewhere in the desert, NM
I'm using the stock pickup, 6mm hose and existing feed line to run the DET if that helps.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 12, 2010 1:20 am 
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Location: Netherlands
yes i know :) after reading your thread again i started wondering about that. dont you think it will be a problem?

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Japanseklassiekers!

1970 C30 Laurel
1972 240Z
1973 610 Wagon
1977 260Z
1995 Micra
1999 200SX


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 12, 2010 4:52 pm 
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eric what happened to all your pics?

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 13, 2010 9:12 am 
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i killed the server they were on.. but forgot they were on there.

Must fix them asap!
A project isnt a project without pics!

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Japanseklassiekers!

1970 C30 Laurel
1972 240Z
1973 610 Wagon
1977 260Z
1995 Micra
1999 200SX


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 17, 2010 9:41 am 
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Location: Netherlands
Update time..

Not much but i am happy with it,

Got these from Japan:

Image

Original JDM C30 sedan taillights :D
If i ever break one of my euro-taillights i have these to replace them with.

And i bought this:

Image

Some manuals and books, and a set of microfiches :D
Now to get me a reader and see whats on them.

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Japanseklassiekers!

1970 C30 Laurel
1972 240Z
1973 610 Wagon
1977 260Z
1995 Micra
1999 200SX


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 17, 2010 9:00 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jun 05, 2010 8:31 am
Posts: 199
Location: Somewhere in the desert, NM
That's a nice haul you got there!
I don't know if you've seen this or not:
Datsun 1800 C30 Parts Catalog
Came across it, and it suits your needs better then mine. I have yet to find a parts catalog or service manual for the 2 door!

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