So here's the update of yesterday and today's work.
Yesterday I decided i'd fix what was wrong with the headlights, indicators and gauges if possible. I started with the headlights. This is what it looked like before with one of the parkers/low beams on the blink.
This was the Hi beam bulb plug before.
Then I looked at the actual connnector itself. One of the terminals was corroded to hell so I hit it with some sand paper after extracting it from the plug. Before...
I didn't get an after shot. The parker and hi beam were basically the same on both sides.
I then put it all back together then tested it out and the hibeam still didn't work. I ran a multimeter on it and it read at about 10.5V and the other side ran about 11.5 so it was OK, I then checked the bulb.http://i934.photobucket.com/albums/ad189/Dchil15/20141108_105923_zps3oxdjp47.jpg
Looks like someone had dropped it at some point. It wasn't me.
I then moved onto the non working indicator. I soon found out why it wouldn't light up.
The bulb hadn't been plugged into the housing, also the tabs had broken off, no biggy. Electrical tape is awesome.http://i934.photobucket.com/albums/ad189/Dchil15/20141108_112212_zpssaqprdpz.jpg
(1000+ pix pic)
Now, ever since I had got it the Horn hadn't worked. Also this random plug happened to be sitting near the headlight. While the indicator was off the car I could see the horn and it's lack of wires. However it was all behind the front bar and I couldn't get my hands in there. So this happened.
All to put this..
I then put it back together minus the grill.
Why? because only one of the factory clips was still on the grill when I got it and the bolt that held the other side.. Well I lost the nut to it. I also didn't think of cable ties. The car then got a wash.
It's very noticeable that the hood and front bar don't match the guards.
I also de-boganed the car a bit.
The next day I pulled the steering column surround (held together with the normal mish-mash of screws that aren't factory) only to discover that the indicator switch wanted to work perfectly today. So I pulled the cluster to check if any shorting was causing the tacho to not work.
Electrical tape on a printed circuit board... It turned out to just be covering a hole for a bulb.
No shorting so next time I'll have to go searching for the wire which sends the signal to the tacho then see what's up with it. Anyway that's all for now.9/11/14 Part 2
Great project. I've owned a number of these so if you have questions, feel free to ask.
Faulty tacho will be the grounding wire on the distributor being stuffed. Also, "auto" ECU wouldn't be helping but I doubt it is that.
If you cannot get the tacho to work, run your own wire from the ground wire on the distributor to the plug on the harness that plugs into the cluster, and you'll get tacho without the ECU interfering (there is no need for it to anyhow).
If the odometer doesn't work, inside the cluster is a tiny little cog that drives the odometer from the speedo motor - it is a 20c part and can be fixed yourself really easy so long as you have room to strip it down (dining room table will be best) and time to do it. You might be able to get it from Jaycar or another hobbyist store (RC car/boat/plane store might help?)
As for rust - yeah, worst enemy. N13s were RENOUND for bad rust problems, each of mine had rust in the base of the A pillars, below the bottom hinge for the front doors. The seam along the top of the firewall is also very common. Another common spot is behind the vent on the C pillar, next to the quarter-window glass on the door when the door is shut. There should be a couple of screws holding that on from memory - be gentle, they're brittle.
Also, the gutter mould clips can still be purchased new from Nissan. Mine had a few broken ones, but a trip to Nissan saw some brand new off the shelf replacements.
Electrical tape on the printed PCB is common too, many used a generic cluster which was interchangeable across all models, some of which had features that lower spec'd models didn't. Elec tape simply stopped any excess light getting into that hole, giving a false reading on the dash (even thou it would have been dim as hell).
As for stereo wiring - just run new stuff for the speakers, pretty sure they used a common ground for the speakers which in todays world, bad idea. New wiring to speakers is super simple. Pair of 6" splits in the front doors will do the job, and whatever you wish to run in the parcel shelf will also be up to the job. Ignore and discard the dash speakers, they're garbage and are stupidly hard to try find something decent to fit.
With the indicator not sticking on, take the steering wheel shroud off, unclip the indicator stalk and remove it completely, give it a good clean with some contact cleaner (pressure-packed can, like WD40 but doesn't hurt elecs) and try it again. See if you can get it to stick while it is detached. If not, simply replace it with something from a wrecker.
It is VERY COMMON to find these in a "you pull it" wrecker too, before the only one of its kind shut up shop here in the west, I raided every N13 I could find for a whole swag of spare parts.
Just for the record, yours is a Q. Disc brake rear and colour matched bumpers. Reebok got some stupid sticker pack down the side and were mostly white. Q is the highest spec you could get in a hatch, with the next level being a Ti which was only available in the sedan. LSD box was common in the SSS but still an (expensive) option. LSD wasn't so common in the Ti though it was available, as most people weren't interested.
If you're really keen, the Ti also as electric windows
Hope some of this helps.
Thanks for the info mate. It helps alot.
My brother is on charge of the stereo (aftermarket setup put in by the previous owner). If I had my way I'd rip it out all of it then put something in later with all new stuff but my brother is determined to put it in after I get a rwc with all the dodgy wiring that's still in it.
It's great to know that this is a q's too. I thought it wasn't for a while because it doesn't seem to have a LSD from the test I had done. But from what you say then it was a rare option in this spec. To be honest I just hoped it was there so I could lay down 2 lines instead of one.... on a track.
Just a question. What colour should the tacho grounding wire be? I have wiring diagrams but I heard that the ones I have are for a S1 and some colours changed for the S2.
As for the rust. I'll probably end up buying a can of bog, a can of rust converter, a wire wheel for the angle grinder and a can of colour matched paint the covering up what needs to be done.
Note: We then determined that the tacho wire was red&white.