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 Post subject: Re: Fan Clutch
PostPosted: Mon Nov 30, 2009 4:04 pm 
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Location: Arlington, TX, USA
hawaii_se-r wrote:
If I got a 240z fan clutch, would that just bolt right up to the existing water pump? It's a L20 motor.


Need a photo, because...

Quote:
Or could I just by a new water pump for a 240z with a fan clutch on it and replace the whole thing? are they compatible?


Some of the water pumps have built-in clutches, some have bolt-on clutches. First we need to know which one you have. 8)

Typically the Z stuff is not compatible with the 4cyl stuff as the water pump pulley sometimes lines up in a different spot.


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 Post subject: my water pump
PostPosted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 5:50 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 18, 2008 4:37 am
Posts: 41
Location: Hawaii
This isn't the greatest picture, but this was the only way I could take a pic without removing it. I still need to drive it, so I can't do that.

There's the four bolts that hold the fan blades to the pump, and then other bolts that hold the two pieces together.

Image


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 04, 2009 9:24 am 
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Joined: Sat Oct 17, 2009 11:45 pm
Posts: 349
Location: Warren, MI
sweet truck! :wink:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 04, 2009 9:19 pm 
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Location: Hawaii
That's a cool ad. The truck looks much bigger in the ad then it is in real life.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 06, 2009 2:34 am 
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Joined: Fri Jul 18, 2008 4:37 am
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Location: Hawaii
Since I'm having a hard time with finding a fan for my truck. I think I'm just going to go with an electric fan and upgrade the alternator to a high output alternator, as suggested earlier by the forum.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 22, 2009 7:57 am 
It is better for you to go into a machine shop to let them do the work for you. It could really be a hard thing to find some information about that old truck. They might have to convert it easily.



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 Post subject: Help removing the brake adjuster clips
PostPosted: Mon Apr 26, 2010 6:27 am 
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Joined: Fri Jul 18, 2008 4:37 am
Posts: 41
Location: Hawaii
Just wanted to check with the friendly and very knowledgeable people here on the forum about this.

I replaced all the components in my rear drum brakes, and the last thing I'm trying to take off is my brake adjusters, to clean/service them. Is there a special tool or technique to remove these clips? Or should I not remove them and just clean and re-grease them on the back plate?

Any suggestions would be much appreciated!


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 Post subject: Problem with my brake pedal sinking to the floor
PostPosted: Mon Jul 05, 2010 4:08 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 18, 2008 4:37 am
Posts: 41
Location: Hawaii
I'm having a problem with my brake pedal sinking all the way to the bottom of the floor if the booster lines are hooked up.

Here is what I did so far:
I changed out the master cylinder to a new 280zx, new 620 brake booster and rebuilt back drum setup completely, wheel cylinders and all. I've bled the master on a bench (I think I did it correctly, don't know if I pushed the rod in far enough), but did the "two tubes back in the reservoir, till no bubbles" thing. Bled the brake system with a friend, two man system, on all the brake lines with no bubbles. Pedal doesn't get firm till about almost half way down with the truck off (no booster assist), with the truck running, the pedal sinks to the floor. The brakes do grab when the pedal travels to the bottom but not convincingly.

I don't know what else to do. Any tips on what to double/triple check again would be much appreciated as this has got me stumped.

I was reading on other forums that there are two different types of Master Cylinders, one that is made for a brake booster and one that is non-booster? Is this correct and could this be the problem?

This brake project started over a year ago and I'm not done with it... sheeze, I move slow.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 05, 2010 5:54 pm 
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Joined: Sat Aug 01, 2009 2:08 pm
Posts: 277
Location: Los Angeles, CA
hawaii_se-r wrote:
Since I'm having a hard time with finding a fan for my truck. I think I'm just going to go with an electric fan and upgrade the alternator to a high output alternator, as suggested earlier by the forum.


you can get an alternator off a 80's maxima its a 60 or 70 amp unit...


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 Post subject: Re: Problem with my brake pedal sinking to the floor
PostPosted: Mon Jul 05, 2010 6:02 pm 
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Joined: Sat Aug 01, 2009 2:08 pm
Posts: 277
Location: Los Angeles, CA
hawaii_se-r wrote:
I'm having a problem with my brake pedal sinking all the way to the bottom of the floor if the booster lines are hooked up.

Here is what I did so far:
I changed out the master cylinder to a new 280zx, new 620 brake booster and rebuilt back drum setup completely, wheel cylinders and all. I've bled the master on a bench (I think I did it correctly, don't know if I pushed the rod in far enough), but did the "two tubes back in the reservoir, till no bubbles" thing. Bled the brake system with a friend, two man system, on all the brake lines with no bubbles. Pedal doesn't get firm till about almost half way down with the truck off (no booster assist), with the truck running, the pedal sinks to the floor. The brakes do grab when the pedal travels to the bottom but not convincingly.

I don't know what else to do. Any tips on what to double/triple check again would be much appreciated as this has got me stumped.

I was reading on other forums that there are two different types of Master Cylinders, one that is made for a brake booster and one that is non-booster? Is this correct and could this be the problem?

This brake project started over a year ago and I'm not done with it... sheeze, I move slow.



make sure the lil rod that pushes out of the buster is adjusted properly... also what i like to do when puting a new master b. cylender is go to the frunt brakes and push the pistons all the way in and go have a parner pump the brakes till he feels them get hard and start the 2 man bleeding proses...


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 Post subject: Re: Problem with my brake pedal sinking to the floor
PostPosted: Mon Jul 05, 2010 8:15 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 18, 2008 4:37 am
Posts: 41
Location: Hawaii
arsonist63086 wrote:

make sure the lil rod that pushes out of the buster is adjusted properly... also what i like to do when puting a new master b. cylender is go to the frunt brakes and push the pistons all the way in and go have a parner pump the brakes till he feels them get hard and start the 2 man bleeding proses...


How do I adjust the pushing rod on the booster. That's the one goes into the master correct? Not the foot pedal side.

So take off the front calipers and hold the brake pistons in? then pump the brakes till it gets hard. I not sure I understand what your process is, but i'd like to try it if you can tell me more about it.

Thanks


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jul 06, 2010 3:31 am 
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Joined: Thu Jul 17, 2008 3:32 pm
Posts: 100
Location: Honolooloo
where are you located? i'd love to come by and check out your truck... it's always nice to have more datsun friends here. most everyone in hawaii is all about old school toyotas.

and i'm gonna have to redo the brakes on my Z soon too, so if i could get an idea of what everyone's talking about, it'll make it that much easier when i get around to it.

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 Post subject: Re: Problem with my brake pedal sinking to the floor
PostPosted: Tue Jul 06, 2010 9:34 am 
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Joined: Sat Aug 01, 2009 2:08 pm
Posts: 277
Location: Los Angeles, CA
hawaii_se-r wrote:

How do I adjust the pushing rod on the booster. That's the one goes into the master correct? Not the foot pedal side.

So take off the front calipers and hold the brake pistons in? then pump the brakes till it gets hard. I not sure I understand what your process is, but i'd like to try it if you can tell me more about it.

Thanks



the push rod is the one from the booster and it should be a screw type. as for the pistons sorry i didnt explain my self...

what i do is have some one pump the brakes till they get as hard as possible then i go to the front and and stick a pry bar or anything by that matter and bush the pad inward as to push the piston in (note at the time of pushing in piston person no longer holding or pumping peddle) do it to both sides.. once both pistons are all the way in have the helper pump the brakes till they get hard and then you start the normal bleeding process for that brakes.. (also bleed the rears as well) hop it helps..... also you sure the 280zx m.b. cylinder worked?


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 Post subject: Re: Problem with my brake pedal sinking to the floor
PostPosted: Wed Jul 07, 2010 2:02 am 
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Joined: Fri Jul 18, 2008 4:37 am
Posts: 41
Location: Hawaii
arsonist63086 wrote:
the push rod is the one from the booster and it should be a screw type.


I'm going to try and check the push rod and make sure it's spaced correctly. I was also reading online in other forums that, if the push rod is too short, I may need to change it to a longer rod.

If anyone on JNC knows before hand if in fact I can change that rod prior to a possible attempt that would be appreciated. :)

arsonist63086 wrote:
what i do is have some one pump the brakes till they get as hard as possible then i go to the front and and stick a pry bar or anything by that matter and bush the pad inward as to push the piston in (note at the time of pushing in piston person no longer holding or pumping peddle) do it to both sides.. once both pistons are all the way in have the helper pump the brakes till they get hard and then you start the normal bleeding process for that brakes.. (also bleed the rears as well) hop it helps..... also you sure the 280zx m.b. cylinder worked?


Regarding the brake master cylinder, I was told by the person that I bought the disc brake conversion brackets from that I could use an early 280zx b.m.c with the conversion. So that's what I have now. I never tried the conversion with the stock b.m.c because I changed all the old parts when I started the conversion.

Someone told me that their experience with b.m.cs' is that the bigger they went, the softer the pedal got. In an older thread, I read a post from DatsunFreak that said the opposite. Both sources of information are highly credible, so I don't know what to make of it other than they are both correct!

I'm going to try the bleeding process you mentioned, sounds like it will get rid of any trapped air within the pistons.

reintr0ducing,
I live in Mililani. You're more then welcome to see my truck, it isn't much to look at right now. Do you drive you Z around town?


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 Post subject: Re: Problem with my brake pedal sinking to the floor
PostPosted: Wed Jul 07, 2010 9:10 am 
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Joined: Thu Jul 17, 2008 3:32 pm
Posts: 100
Location: Honolooloo
hawaii_se-r wrote:
reintr0ducing,
I live in Mililani. You're more then welcome to see my truck, it isn't much to look at right now. Do you drive you Z around town?


i used to drive it around town a lot. i just recently moved it to my parent's garage in ewa to free up a parking stall in my apartment. parking is a PREMIUM living in downtown...

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 Post subject: Battery relocation to the bed of the truck
PostPosted: Wed Feb 02, 2011 5:10 am 
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Joined: Fri Jul 18, 2008 4:37 am
Posts: 41
Location: Hawaii
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I'm doing a battery relocation to the bed of my 620 and just wanted to get some feedback. Attached is the wire diagram that I came up with to do this job. Please, if anyone out there sees any flaws of points of concern with this plan please tell me as I wish not to have my truck burn to the ground.

Wire I'm using is 4 gage.

Why am I doing this? Because my original battery try was rusted to pieces and I'm doing this so I can drive my truck while I work on repairing that area of the engine bay. Also if I ever do a KA or SR20 swap, and also because it looks a lot cleaner on the inside of the engine bay too!

I've tried to find as much information about this topic on forums (domestics and imports) and I'm still confused as to what's proper.

Thanks,
Kyle


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 Post subject: Re: Battery relocation to the bed of the truck
PostPosted: Wed Feb 02, 2011 4:21 pm 
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Joined: Fri Oct 12, 2007 8:57 pm
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Location: Arlington, TX, USA
hawaii_620 wrote:
I'm doing a battery relocation to the bed of my 620 and just wanted to get some feedback. Attached is the wire diagram that I came up with to do this job. Please, if anyone out there sees any flaws of points of concern with this plan please tell me as I wish not to have my truck burn to the ground.


Looks like it will work fine. :tu:

I would suggest saving yourself a lot of trouble and just run the alternator wire to the big post on the starter. That way the juice flows back to the battery through the main positive battery cable, and it saves a bit of wiring, fuses, and connections.

The fewest number of connections = less potential headache down the road. 8)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 02, 2011 4:24 pm 
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Joined: Fri Oct 12, 2007 8:57 pm
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Location: Arlington, TX, USA
And unless you're running a monster stereo, a 100amp fuse is fine for this set-up. :tu:

You want the fuse to be just a tad higher rating than it needs to be, so if something goes wrong it blows out fairly quickly. If the truck only regularly draws 50 amps total, and you have a 200 amp fuse, it's gonna take a heck of a dead short to pop it. Perhaps after a few wires have already burned. :?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 03, 2011 6:44 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 18, 2008 4:37 am
Posts: 41
Location: Hawaii
Thanks! I knew I'd get good feedback and solutions from this forum. You're absolutely right about keeping things as simple as possible.


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 Post subject: Some pics of my battery relocation to the bed of the Datsun
PostPosted: Mon Mar 14, 2011 12:04 am 
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Joined: Fri Jul 18, 2008 4:37 am
Posts: 41
Location: Hawaii
I'm always asking question to the great people of this forum, so I figured I should post some pics of what I've asked about. Here is my battery relocation setup.

<img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5212/5525046897_9338963dce.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC_0063"></a>
<img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5212/5525638518_2596ce95ce.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC_0059"></a>
<img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5300/5525638438_28ecec6726.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC_0058"></a>

I still need to make a latch and hinge for the top of the crate. I wanted to keep it incognito.

Kyle


Last edited by hawaii_620 on Thu Mar 17, 2011 4:53 am, edited 1 time in total.

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