Note gate pipe position. Not the best place for it. Ill try once to get it working before we fabricate a new manifold.
Ill try taking it just under the flange to turbo, reduce angle change = 90deg.

Well, about time to tease those of you running carbs. (I will regret saying this)

- Turbo, exhaust,gate,water intercooler,radiator into position.
Pipework has more work to clear tight spots here and there.

Modified TB location on intake manifold, to clear inner gaurd. TB running 80 degree to usual install method.


Heat exchanger out front of radiator, pumped by bosch intercooler water pump (controlled by ECU)

My deadline for road going widow maker is late Jan, for a family wedding, and of course in Feb, for a (NZ) Z club Taupo track day, to gently roll around the track whilst smoking a cigar (probably not legal now).

Front end slowly coming together.
Arizona z car struts, camber tops, 70mm longer bottoms arms, lengthened and adjustable tension rods, 5 stud ally hubs, ally disc hat, heavy duty rotors (more cooling vanes, thicker meat) of around 12.4" ish rotors, 4 pot wilwoods, ally mount.
Roll bar and steering linkage needs sorting.

Power steering now in and done, MR2 rack. This is a toyo-ta type.

Found some ZG flares that will fit, extra wide front and rear. Thanks for the pics.

Secret fuel system hidden in back, bosch 700hp efi pump, lift pump, filters, tank increased in size (modified original to increase fuel vol, and house a surge tank), and it all looks completly stock. Beauty.

Great project! Welcome to JNC and keep us updated!

_________________

rb26 water pump.



Should have gone and bought a Davies electric pump instead. Focus....
I will end up changing my mind here....


Anyways,
checking out the exisiting front brake options, it started with the stock er34 (same as s14/15 r32/33/34 sumitomo 4 piston)



But Herberts had a neat looking disc and hat available cheap, which would mount to 4 stud s30 stock hub, using stock sumitomo's. Solid mounted hat to rotor.


But Id wanted a bigger disc, with an ally 5 stud hub, which was not gonna work as a combo, without breaking out the mill again
The disc was light for sure though. Club member may be keen?





But the Arizona Z car stuff, was the ticket. Bolts together, US/NZ rate at $0.87US, it would be very hard to beat it for the $ outlay. Probably too easy now.
Hat-rotor still solid mount, not floating. I Overspeced the rotor to HD, increasing the rotor thickness and number of internal cooling vanes. Increase heat soak potential.

- cage fully welded up now, and completed.






- car a roller, can push between the workshop and the bank manager.
- Neil Fraser has viewed the car, and more than happy with the efforts, with regard to engineering certification.


- Front end has steering arms attached, thanks to the donor skyline for compatibility (with steering arms)

- Front anitroll bar mocked up, will be sent away for manufacturing, two settings, forged ends.

- Camber plates re-made, to REDUCE the -ve camber from the lower arm lengthening (70mm+ each side)

- Camber plates pushed out to the max, without chopping up to much of the outer strut tower. Requires a beating to stop springs rubbin'


- Lower arms and steering arms are close to parallel, and are around horizontal at ride height. ie. -ve camber change on bump only.
Can make up some of these 'bump steer' spacers, but these would change the bump/camber change characteristics (for the better), and make the bump/steer worse. Steering arm - knuckle would require lowering to improve. Something to look at later, once susprog3D is up and running. Or more like I can be bothered, lazy git.

Car is being removed from Herberts Fabrication within a fortnight, for the next phase of works - or a break maybe.

Have asked Roland Miester (Pi Research/Development Pectel Manager) for sponsorship for the SQ6M Pi ECU for the car. A very cool and beefy ECU, dual motorolla processors, data logging, internal memory, fly by wire, traction control, and run dual lambda sensors for quick learning....go the UK!
Perhaps more plugs will see some results? Go Roly! Perhaps an opportunity for Pi to expand into the aftermarket ECU industry? Their usual fare is F1, V8 super's, WRC etc.

Super BAMF ZG flares are manufactured and on their way from the States (+1" wider at the front, 1.5" wider rear, than the standard ZGs seen out there)

- Better hurry up if Im going to make the Feb NZ Taupo track day eh?



The sustanability complex left over.
Avoid $1 reserve auctions for this stuff, what a waste of time packing it up for nothing...

Look forward to the next phase of works, whenever they start.

The mock build up, before the panel beaters.

Overall, I have been happy with Herberts with the work they have done. Quick and good quality. A great fabricator they employ, ROB DOWE, aka ROTORSPORT.

Id recommend him, but not until Ive finished with him, ok?

Finally getting closer to obtaining some JDM wide spec zg flares.
This guy is doing moulds, producing in f.glass and carbon fibre.
Rears are 1.5" wider, front 1" wider.


This should easily take care of wrapping up my wheels, and possibly leave some room for a spacer, increasing the track more.
Surely going more square on the wheelbase/track ratio wont help doing 720's on the motorway?
Go-kart handling for sure.

On a random point, ZGs were designed for an arcing movement of a Mcpherson strut, hence the angular shape.
The rears flares may need the extra width to take into account a relatively more up/down suspension movement (or certainley less camber change on bump)
We will see soon.

AsJustin makes these flares, there have been holds ups to say the least. A small timer doing it from home to start with, but they are getting out to customers, slowly but surely. Good on you Justin, famous for fat flares.

The beast is out in the light, ready for the next round.

Mock build before the panelworks.

All wheels/tires stick outta gaurds.
Nice n low

Happy with that.

Tires are the same size as Porsche GT3 cup cars, great 2nd hand deals.
They are hard as rock, but for a 6 pack each, who cares.
More grip than any semi slick new.

Its been a little slow, and I have no excuses.

Front spoiler from Japan, fibreglass, and of poor quality and finish. Leave this one to the panelbeater.

Standard grill in, and attempting to figure out what the best setup and positions for the heat exchanger for the water/air cooler, and the radiator, thermo fans, powersteer cooling, and even the aircon heat exchanger. Not much then!


Originally had a HUGE filthy air-air, 600mm x 400mm x 125mm thick peice of drag racing ridiculous-ness, but wanted throttle response and quick spool up, and stealth looks as priorities, not drag.

Considering the intercooler sits behind the radiator (where the stock one lives), with around 40mm gap to allow some airflow through, the will be a redution in efficiency of the radiator. The heat exchanger for the cooler should sit in front of the radiator (similar to air-air). To compensate, Ill get some fans on the front of the radiator.

The problems with cooling will eventuate when;
- Im stuck in auckland traffic, no airflow, fans going hard. But, there will be little or no heat generated by the engine (above that of a standard Rb25). Probably will be fine.
- Going around a racetrack with lots of WOT, heat generated galore (circa proportional to power output), fans going, etc. This is where the problem will arise, if it does.


Anyway, enough pissing around, lets bolt the things in.

Clutch lines in, working. Nismo light flywheel and supercopper mix non sprung clutch plate, with HD pressure plate ready. Unsprung? Maybe too ugly for street. May even slip under the final grunt value. We will see.

Front arms xrayd OK, they are painted and to go back in.

Rear subframe out for once over before final install.


Spreadsheeting the brake setup to ensure the system will work well. Measure everything, chuck into spread, check outputs. Make changes. I will detail this further once completed.


SARD fuel rail supplied for er34, has different diameter injector holes than standard, so will require drilling out.

Headlight buckets, right one used in 10/10 nick from Japan, left one NEW from japan. They cost around $80 each. Import Monster. Exchange rate a little sore now, not as effective as it was. Cool parts available if you can decipher the 'engrish' as the Monster calls it.

Been 'servicing' all the parts, so should go well once started.
Rear discs new, standard items. Drum handbrake cleaned up, shoes look fine.




Now everything is covered in the engineers/fabricators enemy, the tar underseal, and 'never dry' gloss black paint.
It does look kinda stock. Once a little dirt is thrown in.



Underneath shot with everything removed, hard to tell whats been played with, or as some perhaps older types would say, BUTCHERING





Lots of new grade 8 bolts, high tensile. Using te old stuff is silly, most threads are stripped, damaged, rusted, even with plating them, hydrogen embrittlement could be an issue with stressed fasteners.

This is great build. Thanks for sharing it with us. The cage work looks terrific! Subscribing to this thread so I can follow it.

There used to be a 14 part video clip series online featuring a couple of guys from Sweden who bought a rust bucket early Z car on ebay from the US. The high energy video clips show them rebuiling all of the metal and beefing the chassis for stage rally competition. I can't find the links to it any more. Has anyone here seen it and link us to it?

_________________
'81 Datsun 210

Hey thanks, happy to oblige, and share the build. No point hiding it eh.

Mull, the Swede, has commented on this project on the New Zealand Z
CLub forum. He likes! I belive the same issues are holding both of us up, wheel arches, and a garden shed full of CASH...amongst other issues.

to his forum post on Hybridz;
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=117757&highlight=hugo

Youtube links to his vids;
http://nz.youtube.com/results?search_query=hugo+240z&page=1

Excellent!

Thanks for the links.

Mike

_________________
'81 Datsun 210

DELETED

I LOVE it. The whole package is going to be supreme... Retro-tech engineering at it's awesomest I say, wheels, brakes, engine package + the carbon flares just add up to wholesale sweetness.

Watching this keenly.

_________________

E-KP61-PGKNS - JDM Toyota Starlet KP61.

Yeah the wheels colour scheme sucks the kumara, but are a cheap version of a te37 rays, cast not forged, and very cheap.
They will see the paint gun, probably bronze-like colour, body silver.

Red rim tape is baaaaad.

For the original forum (more of a kiwi style) thread go to
http://www.zclub.org.nz/viewtopic.php?t=959&test=test

Happy to have the Kiwi support. Go Palmy!

Right then,

This is a boring post.

Firstly, with the plans for a daily driver, think about things I like in a car.
- Clean windscreen!


The squirters are from unknown jap donor car. 4 sprays.

Looking at gauge options, they are suprisingly few.
Autometer, usual fare, but are rather typical?
Autogauge, but unsure of longevity of them
Looked at plenty of American units, but they are oldschool, check out the Cyberdynes, WTF!
Would love some DEFI, but yikes, rather not sell the real daily driver to get 'em.

Need 2 5/8" for centre console, and 5" for dash.

Dash installed and cut outs made for the roll cage around the pillars.





Will look around some more before purchasing.



Hmmm whats going on here.
Decided to ditch a mechanical driven water pump and go electric. ECU will run this. Will gain hp's, more so when its not running at full effort.
Davies Craig 110lt/min arriving soon.
So will have 2 water pumps for sale, one being underdriven (new 'N1 type' one), using a larger pulley. Takers?

cost on said waterpump?
wicked build, best thing iv read in a while.

You Butcher!! I'm kidding of course. No butcher could create such a work of art. You have great plans and great taste! keep us posted. Oh and I say opt for the Defi's. Here's mine, they are the ones before the BF series. I liked how they kept the stock gauge colors.

_________________
Play: 89 Z31 Turbo
Blowing Away: 71 S30 Sr20det

Your set up looks mint. What size are the main gauges?
I presume 60mm for the 3 centres, but what for the rpm and , speedo?
thanks