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 Post subject: Dchil's - 1990 Nissan N13 Pulsar
PostPosted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 10:16 pm 

Joined: Fri May 13, 2011 4:47 pm
Posts: 75
Location: Queensland Australia
Yes, yes I know. You read the title, you're here to complain about it being a 1990 but first let me explain. As some of you know (Aussies i'm looking at you) this model started in '86 in Japan and ended in '90. In Australia this car went from '87 to '91 as both the Pulsar and the Holden Astra LD (1987-1989) so this is legitimately a JNC even if I don't see it that way myself and I'm just posting here to kinda show off. If it bothers you then come back next year when this car is a JNC.

Because I have already started a thread over at the MCM forums I will just copy and paste what I have from there to start with and then I'll post my latest update on the car when it comes out.

So without further delay, I present my previous posts from this link: http://forums.mightycarmods.com/showthread.php?37698-Dchil-s-N13-Pulsar-(1990)

28/10/14
So here's my thread about my Pulsar. Got it from free from a friend of my brother and now I have to unf*ck it and get it regoed so I can drive it.
Currently it is looking clean(ish), however the electrics are screwed.
Image
Image
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Interior shot, notice that i'm a short bastard. That's as far forward as it goes.
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Current wheels. Decent tires on them.
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The engine. The "mighty" GM 18LF family 2 engine.
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The underbonnet relay box. Anyone know where what relays should go or photos of the box with the correct relays in then please comment.
http://i934.photobucket.com/albums/ad189/Dchil15/20141028_070334_zps0e1ded77.jpg
The AUTOMATIC ECU! (link because over 1000pix high)
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The two relays in the box of stuff in the car. Dat phone camera.
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The odometer. This hasn't changed much since the last nissan service in 2006. then again it stayed the same for 2 years on those documents.
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Old stereo wiring. Gotta clean this up.
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This door is rooted. Might have to find a new one. Paint matching will be a pain.
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The missing fan. A reminder of the log which speared the radiator a long time ago. If it doesn't over heat then i won't bother getting a new one as there is one already there.

I'll update this a bit later with various stuffs. I gotta go to school.

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Dchil
Car(s): 1990 Nissan N13 Pulsar Q's - http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=25037

"Never assume you know what you're doing. Because you're doing it wrong."


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 Post subject: Re: Dchil's - 1990 Nissan N13 Pulsar
PostPosted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 10:19 pm 

Joined: Fri May 13, 2011 4:47 pm
Posts: 75
Location: Queensland Australia
29/10/14

Quote:
true, but looks wise it has potential. :)

but it can be modded to be better of course, just sayin that its a good place to start, and if everything is done right, youll have a great car.
-1996FordProbeGT

To right mate.

Anyway little update. Grabbed what tools I could and made up a tool kit. You'd think I would have a complete socket set but I didn't and cobbled together one from about 3 different sets.

Image

Don't know if this interests any of you but I'm kinda excited to start working on it on Friday arvo.

EDIT : There are more spanners and screw drivers in the bag.

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Dchil
Car(s): 1990 Nissan N13 Pulsar Q's - http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=25037

"Never assume you know what you're doing. Because you're doing it wrong."


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 Post subject: Re: Dchil's - 1990 Nissan N13 Pulsar
PostPosted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 10:22 pm 

Joined: Fri May 13, 2011 4:47 pm
Posts: 75
Location: Queensland Australia
31/10/14

So spent some time on it today with a mate and my brother. Put a new battery in it and dumped 10l of new fuel into it then tried to start it.

It cranked and cranked but didn't start. So we tried again and all we managed to get was a pop through the throttle body.

Eventually pulled the plugs, they were black but not excessively and we found that it had spark after dad got home. Fuel was there. Found out after pulling the return line from the rail and turned it to on. Pissed out over the gearbox.

Tried again it kicked but was still dead. After about 10 tries we decided to leave it for the night and try again tomorrow. Hopefully it was just flooded and will go with a few tries tomorrow.

Pics and (hopefully) a video of it starting tomorrow.

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Dchil
Car(s): 1990 Nissan N13 Pulsar Q's - http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=25037

"Never assume you know what you're doing. Because you're doing it wrong."


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 Post subject: Re: Dchil's - 1990 Nissan N13 Pulsar
PostPosted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 10:26 pm 

Joined: Fri May 13, 2011 4:47 pm
Posts: 75
Location: Queensland Australia
1/11/14 Part 1

So I tried starting it this morning and while it didn't go it sounded promising.

Right now I'm going to charge it, pull the fuel line off the rail and run a bit of the fuel into a bucket. Hopefully it is that it's just getting old fuel and draining some will get the new fuel in the lines.

I also went down to super cheap and got some spark plugs and a new jack and set of stands. I don't want to just shove the new plugs in to get them all sooty if with the old plugs and stale fuel it will almost start.
Picture dump and a video of one of the tries will be up in a bit.

1/11/14 Part 2
So here come the pics.
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The headlights that I think are from a JDM langley N13. This is good and bad. Good because I think they look better than the originals except the indicators. Bad for a few reasons. One they are apparently worse than the AUDM versions for light output. Two because these were used extensively in the 90's as replacements in accident repairs as they were cheap due to the Japanese starting to scrap thier N13s.
This is also as a part of the collection of rust photos below.
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The A pillar rust.
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Rear passenger side door outside rust. It gets worse.
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So this is the inside. Bog or a new door will be required.
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Some rust on the seam on the firewall. This'll need to be dealt with.
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My most ingenious way of pumping old fuel out. "Why not use the line coming off the filter instead of the filter?" I hear you say. Well it was harder to take it off the fuel rail than the filter and I didn't want to cut it off. You just have to cycle the ignition off and on without trying to start it.
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The results of this method. The bottle had a few ml of pepsi still in it but it shouldn't be this brown.
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**** air fresheners. All 7 of them.
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My passenger side mirror adjustment lever. I'll need to glue this or buy a new mirror or something.
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The awesome little clip is a fuse puller. It came stock on the car and when this car gets sold this will not go with it.
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Some goodies bought at supercheap today. Spark plugs, jack and stands rated to hold even my dad's falcon comfortably.

So here's a video before I pulled all that fuel out. Excuse the shakyness as the youtube anti-shake made it look crap and i'm doing all this with a phone camera right now.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=olLujxb1kBU

So right now it's on charge and the new plugs will be put in tomorrow. Then we'll try it again. Video of that if it starts will be up tomorrow. Sorry this was late but I got called into work.

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Dchil
Car(s): 1990 Nissan N13 Pulsar Q's - http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=25037

"Never assume you know what you're doing. Because you're doing it wrong."


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 Post subject: Re: Dchil's - 1990 Nissan N13 Pulsar
PostPosted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 10:28 pm 

Joined: Fri May 13, 2011 4:47 pm
Posts: 75
Location: Queensland Australia
So today I put the new plugs in and took it off the charger. This was the result.
http://youtu.be/R6NrMlznMG4
IT LIVES!!!

So yeah. Now the proper fixes start.
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Old vs new.
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The old plugs.
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Dad put some water up the tailpipe to potentially soften up any mud wasp nests. These wasps caused his scooter to not start and cost him lots in repairs until he checked inside the muffler as they didn't make the nest at the tip.

This was the resultant water trail after it was shot out the tail pipe. No nests as far as I can see.
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The broken cluster. I'm either going to have to pull it out and repair the soldering, buy a new tacho or buy a new one.

So now the pulsar is under the car port and I'm looking for brake pads and fluid. I went to take it for a shakedown run but killed that idea before I left the driveway. The brake pedal almost hit the floor before anything happened. The old radio is going back in too. My brother got it from the PO and he'll install it eventually.

Things I know I need to fix for roadworthy:
Brakes (new pads and fluid minimum)
Rust
Indicator not holding on when going right
Fix dash if the speedo is like the tacho.

Things I would like to do:
Adjust clutch to bite lower down
Uprated brakes
Uprated dampers and springs (moar low)
Fluids change
New rims
Paint spoiler black.
Find out if it has a lsd.
New rims
Foggies.

EDIT: Why the hell did that have to be the screenshot from the video...

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Dchil
Car(s): 1990 Nissan N13 Pulsar Q's - http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=25037

"Never assume you know what you're doing. Because you're doing it wrong."


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 Post subject: Re: Dchil's - 1990 Nissan N13 Pulsar
PostPosted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 10:37 pm 

Joined: Fri May 13, 2011 4:47 pm
Posts: 75
Location: Queensland Australia
7/11/14
OK update time.

Yes it may run but the brakes are gone to hell. Some of you who visit the social thread often may be sick of my tales of woe about the expense of rear brakes. However before we get to that, PICS!

Image
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This is where it sits now. No I haven't washed it but WD40 got rid of the dirt on the rims.
Why the WD40 you ask?
Well I got to use my Jack stands for the first time properly today.
Image

But in my haste to put the car up on them I forgot to crack the wheel nuts. So I had two options. I could bring the car back down off the stands...
Image

Or I could be ingenious and use the handle on my jack for something other than jacking or an impromptu pry bar...
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Yes I jammed the pedal with the bar.
But first a trip back, back to yesterday. I took the rear wheels off to check for myself if they were scored.
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Rumors of my scoring have been greatly exaggerated. The other side was the same. Both need new pads and i've emailed RDA South QLD to get a quote on them. Man they look small.
So today I pulled the fronts.
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and this was the passenger side. No real scoring, just some rust and lack of pads. In fact, the only scored rotor was on the drivers side.
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So now I'll have to source some new rotors.
http://i934.photobucket.com/albums/ad189/Dchil15/20141107_170710_zpsinext4us.jpg (1000+ pixel pic)
The current calipers are stamped "AD18V" which to me means they are non-SSS N14 calipers unless both the N14 and N13 pulsars ran the same brakes stock. I would have loved to see a 'F' in the code or the '18V' being replaced by '22VF' as the 18VF were for the normal SSS N14 and the 22VF were fitted to the GTiR and the N15 SSS.

Anyway, on with the discoveries.
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Can't read it? Here's a better shot.
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Yes that says Monroe. Seems the fronts have been replaced but the rears look like factory nissan. Some new springs might find their way on here before it's track debut.
So back to the rust.
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Passenger front guard. Apparently the only common place these cars rust at the moment. Hasn't stopped my door from being next to unusable. Other side is fine, dug some dirt out from both sides before I packed up.
Passenger rear door rust continues. Took a wire brush to it.
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So this car isn't getting on the road soon.
This weekend i'm just going to look at electrical issues, like this...
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That's on hi beam. Not surprising when the back of the light looks like this after getting a wire brush on it...
Image


So yeah. Gonna pull the dash, the steering column surround and horn bits to see what's up with the horn, indicator switch and tacho this weekend. Some pics will come when I get around to it.

8/11/14

Quote:
Nice project mate. Have you taken it in for a roadworthy ? Some will let you take it in for a check first and tell you what it needs doing and that way you know what you need to focus on. I took my daewoo in and were surprised at what they didn't pick up and some things they made me fix, I didn't even think about. Things like rust can be passed because it's only cosmetic but the main things like brakes,steering,wheels,lights and any thing that can make a car unsafe will need to be fully working.

Good luck with it and keen to see more updates :)
-Ricky_191

The plan is to get a roadworthy after I finish school and then get it up to scratch but right now I'm just trying to get stuff done for free. My dad doesn't want me to spend money on it until I get a rwc.

I'd much rather get one this weekend but I don't think dad would go for it.

As for getting another N13. Well ive said before that I have a limited budget but I know of a higher spec version of this model being sold in town for 500 so I'm trying to get funds for that.

_________________
Dchil
Car(s): 1990 Nissan N13 Pulsar Q's - http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=25037

"Never assume you know what you're doing. Because you're doing it wrong."


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 Post subject: Re: Dchil's - 1990 Nissan N13 Pulsar
PostPosted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 10:44 pm 

Joined: Fri May 13, 2011 4:47 pm
Posts: 75
Location: Queensland Australia
9/11/14
UPDATE TIME!

So here's the update of yesterday and today's work.

Yesterday I decided i'd fix what was wrong with the headlights, indicators and gauges if possible. I started with the headlights. This is what it looked like before with one of the parkers/low beams on the blink.
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This was the Hi beam bulb plug before.
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and after...
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Then I looked at the actual connnector itself. One of the terminals was corroded to hell so I hit it with some sand paper after extracting it from the plug. Before...
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I didn't get an after shot. The parker and hi beam were basically the same on both sides.
I then put it all back together then tested it out and the hibeam still didn't work. I ran a multimeter on it and it read at about 10.5V and the other side ran about 11.5 so it was OK, I then checked the bulb.
http://i934.photobucket.com/albums/ad189/Dchil15/20141108_105923_zps3oxdjp47.jpg (1000+pix pix)
Looks like someone had dropped it at some point. It wasn't me.

I then moved onto the non working indicator. I soon found out why it wouldn't light up.
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The bulb hadn't been plugged into the housing, also the tabs had broken off, no biggy. Electrical tape is awesome.
http://i934.photobucket.com/albums/ad189/Dchil15/20141108_112212_zpssaqprdpz.jpg (1000+ pix pic)

Now, ever since I had got it the Horn hadn't worked. Also this random plug happened to be sitting near the headlight. While the indicator was off the car I could see the horn and it's lack of wires. However it was all behind the front bar and I couldn't get my hands in there. So this happened.
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All to put this..
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Onto here...
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I then put it back together minus the grill.
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Why? because only one of the factory clips was still on the grill when I got it and the bolt that held the other side.. Well I lost the nut to it. I also didn't think of cable ties. The car then got a wash.
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It's very noticeable that the hood and front bar don't match the guards.

I also de-boganed the car a bit.
Image

The next day I pulled the steering column surround (held together with the normal mish-mash of screws that aren't factory) only to discover that the indicator switch wanted to work perfectly today. So I pulled the cluster to check if any shorting was causing the tacho to not work.
Image
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Electrical tape on a printed circuit board... It turned out to just be covering a hole for a bulb.

No shorting so next time I'll have to go searching for the wire which sends the signal to the tacho then see what's up with it. Anyway that's all for now.

9/11/14 Part 2
Quote:
Great project. I've owned a number of these so if you have questions, feel free to ask.

Faulty tacho will be the grounding wire on the distributor being stuffed. Also, "auto" ECU wouldn't be helping but I doubt it is that.

If you cannot get the tacho to work, run your own wire from the ground wire on the distributor to the plug on the harness that plugs into the cluster, and you'll get tacho without the ECU interfering (there is no need for it to anyhow).

If the odometer doesn't work, inside the cluster is a tiny little cog that drives the odometer from the speedo motor - it is a 20c part and can be fixed yourself really easy so long as you have room to strip it down (dining room table will be best) and time to do it. You might be able to get it from Jaycar or another hobbyist store (RC car/boat/plane store might help?)

As for rust - yeah, worst enemy. N13s were RENOUND for bad rust problems, each of mine had rust in the base of the A pillars, below the bottom hinge for the front doors. The seam along the top of the firewall is also very common. Another common spot is behind the vent on the C pillar, next to the quarter-window glass on the door when the door is shut. There should be a couple of screws holding that on from memory - be gentle, they're brittle.

Also, the gutter mould clips can still be purchased new from Nissan. Mine had a few broken ones, but a trip to Nissan saw some brand new off the shelf replacements.

Electrical tape on the printed PCB is common too, many used a generic cluster which was interchangeable across all models, some of which had features that lower spec'd models didn't. Elec tape simply stopped any excess light getting into that hole, giving a false reading on the dash (even thou it would have been dim as hell).

As for stereo wiring - just run new stuff for the speakers, pretty sure they used a common ground for the speakers which in todays world, bad idea. New wiring to speakers is super simple. Pair of 6" splits in the front doors will do the job, and whatever you wish to run in the parcel shelf will also be up to the job. Ignore and discard the dash speakers, they're garbage and are stupidly hard to try find something decent to fit.

With the indicator not sticking on, take the steering wheel shroud off, unclip the indicator stalk and remove it completely, give it a good clean with some contact cleaner (pressure-packed can, like WD40 but doesn't hurt elecs) and try it again. See if you can get it to stick while it is detached. If not, simply replace it with something from a wrecker.

It is VERY COMMON to find these in a "you pull it" wrecker too, before the only one of its kind shut up shop here in the west, I raided every N13 I could find for a whole swag of spare parts.

Just for the record, yours is a Q. Disc brake rear and colour matched bumpers. Reebok got some stupid sticker pack down the side and were mostly white. Q is the highest spec you could get in a hatch, with the next level being a Ti which was only available in the sedan. LSD box was common in the SSS but still an (expensive) option. LSD wasn't so common in the Ti though it was available, as most people weren't interested.

If you're really keen, the Ti also as electric windows ;)

Hope some of this helps.

Thanks for the info mate. It helps alot.

My brother is on charge of the stereo (aftermarket setup put in by the previous owner). If I had my way I'd rip it out all of it then put something in later with all new stuff but my brother is determined to put it in after I get a rwc with all the dodgy wiring that's still in it.

It's great to know that this is a q's too. I thought it wasn't for a while because it doesn't seem to have a LSD from the test I had done. But from what you say then it was a rare option in this spec. To be honest I just hoped it was there so I could lay down 2 lines instead of one.... on a track.

Just a question. What colour should the tacho grounding wire be? I have wiring diagrams but I heard that the ones I have are for a S1 and some colours changed for the S2.

As for the rust. I'll probably end up buying a can of bog, a can of rust converter, a wire wheel for the angle grinder and a can of colour matched paint the covering up what needs to be done.

Note: We then determined that the tacho wire was red&white.

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Dchil
Car(s): 1990 Nissan N13 Pulsar Q's - http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=25037

"Never assume you know what you're doing. Because you're doing it wrong."


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 Post subject: Re: Dchil's - 1990 Nissan N13 Pulsar
PostPosted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 10:45 pm 

Joined: Fri May 13, 2011 4:47 pm
Posts: 75
Location: Queensland Australia
Over the next few days I didn't really update much and then I started going on about my brakes which I will spare you from.

I have fitted new ones and the next update will be coming soon so watch this space.

EDIT: I'm just gonna make this clear right here. I consider this car a JNC in age only. I don't own it because it is technically a JNC, I own it because it was free. I just felt like posting this here because I wished to contribute to the forum and perhaps you guys would like to read it.

I don't want to cause any confusion.

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Dchil
Car(s): 1990 Nissan N13 Pulsar Q's - http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=25037

"Never assume you know what you're doing. Because you're doing it wrong."


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 Post subject: Re: Dchil's - 1990 Nissan N13 Pulsar
PostPosted: Tue Nov 25, 2014 4:46 am 

Joined: Fri May 13, 2011 4:47 pm
Posts: 75
Location: Queensland Australia
So here's my latest update in Video form spanning over 4 days and with much shakycam. It may contain some course language.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xx3O6LyVMvM&feature=youtu.be

Very sorry about the quality of this. And I think I won't do this sort of update again unless I get a proper camera and gear.

Getting a check for a RWC tomorrow to see what needs to be done. I doubt the car is going to pass but there's always the slight possibility.
Going to try and fix the Hazards (probably a fuse) and I'll clean up the car before that happens.

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Dchil
Car(s): 1990 Nissan N13 Pulsar Q's - http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=25037

"Never assume you know what you're doing. Because you're doing it wrong."


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 Post subject: Re: Dchil's - 1990 Nissan N13 Pulsar
PostPosted: Tue Nov 25, 2014 6:05 am 

Joined: Fri May 13, 2011 4:47 pm
Posts: 75
Location: Queensland Australia
You know what. I'll do what I have with what pics I have.

So the plan was to replace the rear pads and do the front rotors and pads. I did that.
I got these
Image
Image
Image
Removed these
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The weird clip
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Caliper bolt
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Old Vs new rear
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My work space
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New rears
Image
New fronts (oooo shiney)
Image
Broke some tools (a 3/8ths to 1/4 adaptor and 2 12mm sockets)
Image

Then I bled the front brake I managed to get air in (prior attempt failed) and this is how the car sits now. Except for the new high beam globe.

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Dchil
Car(s): 1990 Nissan N13 Pulsar Q's - http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=25037

"Never assume you know what you're doing. Because you're doing it wrong."


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 Post subject: Re: Dchil's - 1990 Nissan N13 Pulsar
PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2014 1:06 am 

Joined: Fri May 13, 2011 4:47 pm
Posts: 75
Location: Queensland Australia
So to news.

The roadworthy guy came out, had a look over the car and diagnosed why it wouldn't start. He seemed to really like these N13s and new why it wasn't going. The coil was dead.

What I did before he came was cleaned it, pulled out all my stuff and checked random stuff.
So I....
Image
Fixed the dome light.
Image
Bolted down one of the parcel shelf type things with one of many, many bolts that came with the car.
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BLOWN FUSES!!!
The hazzard fuse was blown but the cig lighter fuse was good and the same so I swapped it and pulled the radio fuse which was also blown.

Then got a list of things to fix for the next roadworthy.
1. Make it run (dead coil)
2. Degrease the engine
3. put in a new parker bulb
4. new wiper blades
5. Seat covers (because a 20c hole in the passenger seat)

I then pulled apart the indicator (which contains the parker) and cleaned out the indicator because I thought it was the parker.
Image

Then I fiddled around with a multimeter, some sandpaper and a screw driver to clean the parker until the only thing left was the bulb. But that couldn't be blown because it has a viable current, right? Wrong. I was cleaning out what I assume is dielectric grease.

But my Dad wants the car on the road before the weekend so he's trowing money at me to get it done. So I'm picking up a new coil tomorrow, then going to supercheap and buying all the things needed and booking a roadworthy tomorrow. Then the roadworthy and rego the next day and then I have a car. Hopefully.

Stay tuned for more updates.

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Dchil
Car(s): 1990 Nissan N13 Pulsar Q's - http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=25037

"Never assume you know what you're doing. Because you're doing it wrong."


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 Post subject: Re: Dchil's - 1990 Nissan N13 Pulsar
PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2014 2:01 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 01, 2013 2:21 am
Posts: 29
Location: Fryslân, The Netherlands
Yeah! Another N13 on the JNC forum! Great car, and truly a Japanese Nostalgic Car if you ask me. That may have something to do with the fact that I own two N13's (Numero uno: http://carnold.nl/sunny-update-restauratietijd/ and numero two: http://carnold.nl/nissan-sunny-gti-n13/) Reminds me I need to update my thread on this forum...

Anyway: the problems with some of the electrics look familiar. Both my Sunny's (as they were called on the European market) have problems with the headlights. After two years of fiddling around and looking for the cause, I found out that the were caused by faulty earth / ground wires. This causes the causes the plug on the lamps / indicators to melt.

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'90 N13 Sunny 1.6 GT - '00 P11-144 Primera 1.8 - '88 N13 Sunny 1.6 GTi - '00 Micra Aztec 1.3i


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 Post subject: Re: Dchil's - 1990 Nissan N13 Pulsar
PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2014 2:45 pm 

Joined: Fri May 13, 2011 4:47 pm
Posts: 75
Location: Queensland Australia
AJS wrote:
Yeah! Another N13 on the JNC forum! Great car, and truly a Japanese Nostalgic Car if you ask me. That may have something to do with the fact that I own two N13's (Numero uno: http://carnold.nl/sunny-update-restauratietijd/ and numero two: http://carnold.nl/nissan-sunny-gti-n13/) Reminds me I need to update my thread on this forum...

Anyway: the problems with some of the electrics look familiar. Both my Sunny's (as they were called on the European market) have problems with the headlights. After two years of fiddling around and looking for the cause, I found out that the were caused by faulty earth / ground wires. This causes the causes the plug on the lamps / indicators to melt.


Yeah corrosion is a big problem on these cars. Well any Nissan/Datsun these days (I remember when Kev's Hako lit up the headlights when he hit the brakes because of bad connections). About half of my problems electrically have come from corrosion and blown fuses. Then there's the Distributor leaking oil onto the coil which is killing it (This one runs a 18LE a.ka. GM Family 2 Sohc 1.8) but that's getting done today.

Eventually I'm going to make this car pretty 80's with Meshies (BBS?), yellow rectangle foggies and then I'll upgrade suspension and brakes.

Your sunnies look great. I wish there were more on here.

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Dchil
Car(s): 1990 Nissan N13 Pulsar Q's - http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=25037

"Never assume you know what you're doing. Because you're doing it wrong."


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 Post subject: Re: Dchil's - 1990 Nissan N13 Pulsar
PostPosted: Thu Nov 27, 2014 11:12 pm 

Joined: Fri May 13, 2011 4:47 pm
Posts: 75
Location: Queensland Australia
So stuff has happened.

After my last update I ordered a new coil from a local parts store and got it the next day for $59. Nissan wanted $195 and 2-8 weeks to ship it. I also bought various other things.
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I then fitted my new wiper blades, parkers and a few blow fuses were replaced.
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I then degreased the engine and fitted a new coil.
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Then I made a video on where the coil is placed and why I don't like this engine.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kxb4b5oFDWI

But the car wouldn't start after I replaced those parts. The coil was getting 12.(whatever the battery had)V and the plug wire would show a bright orange spark when cranked and a screw in it. The plugs were pulled and the car put on charge and I discovered that they were black, like the first set that were in them. I also tested the plug wires for resistance. No.1 was close, if not over, the limit for resistance, No.2 was dead, No.3 was having an intermittent connection and No.4& the coil wire were in much the same shape as 1.

Another parts run happened. I bought this....
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However some time during the night my interior light died. Supercheapauto had the wires for $20 because they were getting rid of them.

This was my view as I worked on the car to try and get it started.
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New vs Old (previously cleaned with sand paper)
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The car then started. The roadworthy guy came out, gave a diagnosis on why it wasn;t running the smoothest (slight hesitation and some misses) and passed it. I had gotten the CTP (compulsory third party insurance) done and now all i had to do was drive it to the transport department.

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I can't tell you how sketchy it feels to drive a car with no plates, no rego and the barest of insurance on a road that is known for cop activity even though it is legal. The car performed well but still didn't like idling that much and my clutch work was a little sketchy after months of only driving autos. I was given a scare when the lady behind the counter told me she couldn't decode the vin but that turned out to be an error.

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Back home with the plates bolted in with whatever screws I had laying around as I didn't think to get some when off to transport or bring a screw driver. Now it's probably going to just get maintained until such time as more funds come in to buy cool stuff like GTiR brakes and suspension, 15inch meshies and yellow rectangular fog lamps. I still have to sort the hesitation (injector cleaner and some 98 octane was prescribed by the RWC guy) and then deal with the dodgy bits (aircon, tacho, rust, paint,....) but it runs, has rego and will be my daily for the forseeable future.

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Dchil
Car(s): 1990 Nissan N13 Pulsar Q's - http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=25037

"Never assume you know what you're doing. Because you're doing it wrong."


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 Post subject: Re: Dchil's - 1990 Nissan N13 Pulsar
PostPosted: Mon Dec 01, 2014 12:06 am 

Joined: Fri May 13, 2011 4:47 pm
Posts: 75
Location: Queensland Australia
Shakedown run COMPLETE!

So here's a pic.
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I learned that the aircon doesn't work (already suspected) and the heater lines leak. Actually 75% of coolant related hoses in the car are on their way out and one of them is still sketchy. I also discovered this...
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My brake and clutch pedals are only held in with one bolt each when there should be two. Also due to various financial constraints changing the oil and filter will have to wait but a fuel filter change will happen next time I fill up. These are delayed along with 99% of anything that cost money because I'm broke. The shift linkages seem to be loose too with 2-3 inches of play, left to right, when in gear.

On the up side I reattached my door trim and bent the rain gutter in a way so it would fit properly.
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Other than that the car has been running fine with no sign of an overheat or other problems. The radio gear and tacho sender will get a look this week too.

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Dchil
Car(s): 1990 Nissan N13 Pulsar Q's - http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=25037

"Never assume you know what you're doing. Because you're doing it wrong."


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 Post subject: Re: Dchil's - 1990 Nissan N13 Pulsar
PostPosted: Mon Dec 08, 2014 2:32 am 

Joined: Fri May 13, 2011 4:47 pm
Posts: 75
Location: Queensland Australia
I just had to say it didn't I?
The car developed an overheating problem. More on that later.

Right now. The radio. I didn't have a radio in the car when I got it other than a pair of speakers in the rear. The previous owner was kind enough to give the radio that was in the car back.
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A Sony Xplod GT180 and a pair of matching speakers.
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First I got it to power up and play through some of the speakers with twisting an taping. I diagnosed the problems (a dodgy rear speaker and two of the speakers were wired to the other) and then started soldering.
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Turns out that these 80's style interiors make decent tables.
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Cable tied in the front speakers because I didn't have the proper screws. The doors and trim were already butchered for the speakers so I didn't bother with trying to preserve the trims.
The radio now plays through the front two. The dodgy speaker wasn't hooked up by me and is just there for appearances which means that the radio defaults to a two speaker output even if the third speaker is wired in.

Now on to the overheating problem. So what happened is the car overheated at highway speeds. Previously this had been witnessed happening with the heater turned on and it's lines were blamed. I later found this.
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One of the many under bonnet relays that were missing controlled the fan. I bridged all of these hoping to find a solution as I didn't have a relay that fit but nothing happened. I then probed the other relays and found which one controlled it and replaced the relay for it as I had a spare. But the fan doesn't do anything at highway temps. There was a bigger problem, the hoses.
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So I got new ones. But these hoses, for the heater, turned out to be the wrong ones after some swearing happened while trying to fit them. They hid the actual hose which was a bypass hose.
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The actual problem was a split letting in air and expelling water when the car ran hot, right at the back of the engine bay where it was covered by the long hose above.
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The space I had to work in. I had taken off the pipe from the airbox to the intake here. My brother manage to break off the coolant temp sensor while levering on a hose clamp to get it off.
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So I got a new one and fitted it.

After that I did a service on the car.
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New fuel filter.
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New oil and filter. When doing this I noticed that the sump and headers were dented. Also this is the worst placement of an oil filter I have personally seen. It's between the harmonic balancer, tie rod and the inner plastic guard. I ended up removing this guard to get a filter wrench on it.
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The oil was very black as evidenced by the spill on my arm.
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The great part about working on a dirt driveway was that I didn't need to buy kitty litter if I spilled some. I just have to scoop some dirt on it.

So right now the updates are going to slow unless I fix the tacho/odometer, start working on rust or mods. I need to replace another two coolant hoses and put coolant into the system as it just has tap water in it. I won't be putting in a CA18DE as I will need a mod plate on it and that means the car would be undriveable due to laws here for me. The aircon system has been pulled out at some stage and I might source one from a wrecked N13 but I doubt it will happen. I might go along with my plans to put bigger brakes and stiffer swaybars on it (and the 15s that the brakes will require) but it's about as possible as me buying a Datsun (H230) 260C and doing that up as my next car.

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Dchil
Car(s): 1990 Nissan N13 Pulsar Q's - http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=25037

"Never assume you know what you're doing. Because you're doing it wrong."


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 Post subject: Re: Dchil's - 1990 Nissan N13 Pulsar
PostPosted: Mon Dec 08, 2014 12:48 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 01, 2013 2:21 am
Posts: 29
Location: Fryslân, The Netherlands
Thanks for the update, your Pulsar is coming along nicely! Didn't the engine suffer too much from running hot?

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 Post subject: Re: Dchil's - 1990 Nissan N13 Pulsar
PostPosted: Mon Dec 08, 2014 3:00 pm 

Joined: Fri May 13, 2011 4:47 pm
Posts: 75
Location: Queensland Australia
AJS wrote:
Thanks for the update, your Pulsar is coming along nicely! Didn't the engine suffer too much from running hot?


It doesn't seem to have effected it.

The only problem I have now is occasionally the car dying at stop lights. This may be due to the early ECU tech not catching up to the increased need for fuel and spark when I put the clutch it or any number of problems. I'm going to wipe the ecu and adjust the idle screw then see if it still happens. If it does then there should be a code and if there isn't then a dirty throttle body would be the cause. (Already did a decent amount of research on this)

I can't exactly tell you where this idles because the Tachometer is still dead. The idle is still a bit poor but I think it might be too low. (Hence the idle screw adjustment.)

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Dchil
Car(s): 1990 Nissan N13 Pulsar Q's - http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=25037

"Never assume you know what you're doing. Because you're doing it wrong."


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