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PostPosted: Mon Jan 03, 2011 1:41 pm 
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Location: Sydney, Australia
Lucky bugger, that's looking nice and solid in all the usual rot spots :)

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 10:59 am 

Joined: Sat Oct 10, 2009 5:27 am
Posts: 228
Location: UK.
Norcal510 wrote:
Looking great. Interior shots?


I'll get some shots sorted soon.

Now to find my wheels and arches LOL!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 1:35 pm 

Joined: Sat Oct 10, 2009 5:27 am
Posts: 228
Location: UK.
Dash board in A1 order, not one crack. The owner always had a sunshade over it when the car was laid up.
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All the clocks, lights etc work
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BIG bonus!!! Original 8 track stereo with 1970 Japanese disco tapes and................. the original emergency torch.......... and it all works!!!
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Pulled the drivers carpet up, plenty of felt laid by the owner..........hmmm covering something??
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Nope, pulled that up and bone dry :wink:
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Took a peek at the electrics, all nice and un butchered
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Minor weeping on the heater pipe.
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Floor under the drivers seat, again in great shape. Just some minor surface stuff.

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Passenger footwell, looks bad but solid. Passed the rubber mallet test LOL!
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Again, under passenger seat nice and dry.
Image

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 2:17 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 26, 2008 10:38 pm
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Location: Northern California
Very nice. Even the paint on the floor looks nice. Cant ask for anything more.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 3:20 pm 

Joined: Sat Oct 10, 2009 5:27 am
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Location: UK.
Norcal510 wrote:
Very nice. Even the paint on the floor looks nice. Cant ask for anything more.


Yes Im very pleased over all. WHEELS AND ARCHES now........please?

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 3:49 pm 
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Location: Northern California
I will be making molds from a set I have. Since youre in the Uk shipping would probably be expensive but just a thought. There is always YAJ.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 05, 2011 3:39 am 
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Joined: Sat Feb 17, 2007 7:06 am
Posts: 203
Location: London, England, UK.
DaveW wrote:
WHEELS AND ARCHES now........please?


Dave,
I'll answer your PM here;

The overfenders on my car are the Nissan works race type, and are therefore not what you want. You need a lot of wheel and tyre under the works overfenders to make them look right, and basically that just slows you down. I believe - based on what you have mentioned before - you just want the stock KPGC10 street overfenders for the rear and none on the front, for a totally stock bodied GT-R street car look - yes?

You can buy excellent replicas of the OEM overfenders from the likes of VICTORY 50, RUBBER SOUL and RS START. In fact, these three suppliers will cover almost all the parts you are going to need for your car. Any of the rarer, hard to find trim items or 100% correct resto parts can be sourced from the likes of FINE PARTS or REVIVE JALOPY too. Your Japanese contacts can buy from these companies on your behalf. You don't need to be inducted into any secret societies, or get approval from the Japanese crime underworld to buy parts for these cars....!

Your wheel choice will depend on what you want to pay, and your suspension ( ride height, spring travel etc ) as well as the sizes of tyres you wish to use. One factor will affect the next. I suspect you might want somebody to just tell you what sizes and offsets to use, but we need more input from you to work from. Are you going for arch-filling internet forum 'stance' biased WOW factor ( not necessarily best for actual performance ), or would you prefer form to follow function? Period-correct ( I hate the term 'Old School' ) or a more modern twist?

You have to have a 'theme', and think of your car as a complete package rather than just a randomly chosen conglomeration of parts. Do you have a vision of the finished car in your mind? That's what I would try to aim at.

Hope that helps a little....

Cheers,
Alan T.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 05, 2011 5:12 am 
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Location: Sydney, Australia
Kameari Engine Works also do the flares and spoilers, and they speak English. Might be worth shooting them an email.

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datsunfreak wrote:
No Kev, you are eating a duck fetus.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 05, 2011 6:58 am 

Joined: Sat Oct 10, 2009 5:27 am
Posts: 228
Location: UK.
HS30-H wrote:
DaveW wrote:
WHEELS AND ARCHES now........please?


Dave,
I'll answer your PM here;

The overfenders on my car are the Nissan works race type, and are therefore not what you want. You need a lot of wheel and tyre under the works overfenders to make them look right, and basically that just slows you down. I believe - based on what you have mentioned before - you just want the stock KPGC10 street overfenders for the rear and none on the front, for a totally stock bodied GT-R street car look - yes?

You can buy excellent replicas of the OEM overfenders from the likes of VICTORY 50, RUBBER SOUL and RS START. In fact, these three suppliers will cover almost all the parts you are going to need for your car. Any of the rarer, hard to find trim items or 100% correct resto parts can be sourced from the likes of FINE PARTS or REVIVE JALOPY too. Your Japanese contacts can buy from these companies on your behalf. You don't need to be inducted into any secret societies, or get approval from the Japanese crime underworld to buy parts for these cars....!

Your wheel choice will depend on what you want to pay, and your suspension ( ride height, spring travel etc ) as well as the sizes of tyres you wish to use. One factor will affect the next. I suspect you might want somebody to just tell you what sizes and offsets to use, but we need more input from you to work from. Are you going for arch-filling internet forum 'stance' biased WOW factor ( not necessarily best for actual performance ), or would you prefer form to follow function? Period-correct ( I hate the term 'Old School' ) or a more modern twist?

You have to have a 'theme', and think of your car as a complete package rather than just a randomly chosen conglomeration of parts. Do you have a vision of the finished car in your mind? That's what I would try to aim at.

Hope that helps a little....

Cheers,
Alan T.


Hiya Alan

Well something like this is my goal. I dont want works arches or a works look, I simply want to enhance the looks and of the car. It probably wont even see a circuit.

http://www.draganddrift.co.uk/images/58 ... 0GTR_1.jpg

The wheels we discussed sounded about right for the car, not oversized nor looney looking. I want a period correct look for the car, not a modern twist.

Thanks for the shop details, im glad i dont need to join some sub culture LOL!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 06, 2011 12:30 pm 

Joined: Sat Oct 10, 2009 5:27 am
Posts: 228
Location: UK.
Some more work done, glass removed. No breakages thank god LOL!!!

Image


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Drain channels not too bad either, a usual rot spot.
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Passenger rear, again not too bad....solid just surface.
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Drivers rear a little grotty. Looks worse than it is.
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Drivers side front, ok.
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Lower front valance has had some minor work.

Image

Lower front valance has had some minor work.
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Signs of filler on the door edge.
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Door inners are solid.
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Drivers door lower section is filled. The doors and wings will be soda blasted and new sections fabricated.
Image

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 5:43 am 

Joined: Tue Jan 19, 2010 1:47 pm
Posts: 43
Location: South West, UK
Nice to see you're making progress already. Looks like some of the rust was visible from before glass removal etc. I hope you were aware of the rust areas before purchase. Did you view it at all or use a contact in Japan to save travelling out there? (I cant remember without going back through the previous 8 pages).

Nice to hear its going to get parts fabricated for the repair. Would be a shame to leave it patched up. What is the final look of the car inside? stripped out, near enough standard or somewhere in between?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 6:05 am 
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Location: Sydney, Australia
This is very little corrosion for the breed. Normally they rust like they've got some Italian fetish :lol:

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datsunfreak wrote:
No Kev, you are eating a duck fetus.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 6:14 am 

Joined: Tue Jan 19, 2010 1:47 pm
Posts: 43
Location: South West, UK
or british fords? lol

Have you had the glass out on yours kev? I hope its like most other cars where the serious rust behind the rubbers would be visible as bubbling around them with the glass still in. I've never come across a car where the lip has rotted away leaving no clue beyond the rubber and hope the C10's are much the same.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 6:18 am 
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Joined: Thu Jul 26, 2007 7:51 pm
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Location: Sydney, Australia
No, haven't had the glass out yet, but I can see that those rust spots on Dave's car were an issue on mine at some point: there is evidence of past repair if I peel back the rubber for a look.

The spot on the lower corners of the back window are a common rot spot.

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datsunfreak wrote:
No Kev, you are eating a duck fetus.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 10:24 am 

Joined: Sat Oct 10, 2009 5:27 am
Posts: 228
Location: UK.
Con2K wrote:
Nice to see you're making progress already. Looks like some of the rust was visible from before glass removal etc. I hope you were aware of the rust areas before purchase. Did you view it at all or use a contact in Japan to save travelling out there? (I cant remember without going back through the previous 8 pages).

Nice to hear its going to get parts fabricated for the repair. Would be a shame to leave it patched up. What is the final look of the car inside? stripped out, near enough standard or somewhere in between?


Hiya

yes we were aware of the corrosion area's. My buyer viewed the car a few times and met with the owner to discuss the vehicles modifications.

The interior look will be near standard. I'll have new carpets, door cards etc fabricated and all the seats retrimmed in black cloth/vinyl with Competition Seat style air vents in the 2 front seats. The cream headlining will be replaced with a black one.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 11:24 am 

Joined: Wed Sep 26, 2007 9:04 am
Posts: 504
Location: Grass valley , CA
Car looks really clean. I would be super happy with that buy. Are you new door cards going to have the chrome line in them??


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 3:55 pm 
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Location: Sydney, Australia
DeRuX wrote:
Car looks really clean. I would be super happy with that buy. Are you new door cards going to have the chrome line in them??

For restoring the chrome line on the door cards, I was thinking of maybe using this stuff: http://www.kmccorporation.com/products/ ... hrome.html

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jRQIYbX08gM

It's pretty expensive, A$235 for a starter kit, but I reckon it's way cheaper than real re-chroming and if there's enough to do all 4 cards and the eyeball vents then it's not a bad deal

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datsunfreak wrote:
No Kev, you are eating a duck fetus.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 08, 2011 3:04 pm 

Joined: Sat Oct 10, 2009 5:27 am
Posts: 228
Location: UK.
The only reason for the door card is that the carboard on the drivers has split. Perhaps a restoration on that might just be the job as the other panels are unmarked.

Ive removed most of the other panels now and...............................amazed at the total lack of rust. Its going to be quite a sympathetic restoration, alot less than I had anticipated.

More pictures soon.

DaveW

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 10, 2011 2:54 pm 

Joined: Sat Oct 10, 2009 5:27 am
Posts: 228
Location: UK.
HS30-H wrote:
I agree with Kev, but I'd go a little further and suggest that you might want to delay sourcing your choice of overfenders until you find out just how much metal is left to bolt them to once you've removed the body filler, chicken wire, fibreglass paste, old newspapers and tram tickets that those rear wheel arches appear to be made out of........

But hopefully I'll be wrong...... :wink:

I've got some 7.5j x 14" and 10j x 14" R.S. Watanabe 8-spokes stacked in my garage. The 10js are Magnesium 'R' types. They might be available if you want to stick with a more period-correct look.


Hiya Alan

Im very interested in the wheels if you are willing to let them go :wink:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 11, 2011 3:40 am 
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Location: London, England, UK.
DaveW wrote:
Hiya Alan

Im very interested in the wheels if you are willing to let them go :wink:


Dave,
I'm not 100% sure that they will be what you want / need now. If you want to stick with stock-sized GT-R rear overfenders, then they might be too wide....

The trouble with 14" wheels is that the choice of road tyres is not all that good any more. You'd want 235 or 245 on the 10j at least ( I stretched some 225s onto these once, and they looked silly.... ), and I'd be sad to see you putting something like BFG Radial T/As on them.

My advice would be to get the overfenders trial fitted, and then see how much wheel and tyre you can get under there. I think you might want to step up to 15" for a better tyre choice, too.

Here are pics of my 10j x 14" magnesium 'R' type, for reference:

Image Image Image

Alan T.


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