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 Post subject: Stock Nissan 210 to Rally prepped
PostPosted: Sun Sep 05, 2010 10:18 am 

Joined: Sun Sep 05, 2010 7:47 am
Posts: 51
Location: Atlanta
So I just bought a little Nissan 210(B310) and am going to get it running and then let the rally/safari conversion start.
Its a nice little rust and wreck free car with a straight underbody.

I'll post some pictures.


Last edited by Master-O-Turbonics on Sun Sep 05, 2010 10:28 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 05, 2010 10:19 am 

Joined: Sun Sep 05, 2010 7:47 am
Posts: 51
Location: Atlanta
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4 link is a huge bonus!!!!
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 07, 2010 8:33 am 

Joined: Wed Jun 18, 2008 11:59 am
Posts: 282
Location: Atlanta, GA
Cool man, did you pick that up in Mableton? If so i spotted it months ago, and keep driving by to check on it. Are you going to acually rally race it? I'd like to know about the races if you do.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 08, 2010 4:58 am 

Joined: Sun Sep 05, 2010 7:47 am
Posts: 51
Location: Atlanta
Yeah that's the one!

There are some rallys up in Tennessee so I'm going to see what requirements they have for prepping.

Its more going to be a toy I can take and hit the forestry trails with, but I want it to be competition ready if I get to that point.

The car is up at the race shop right now, so if there isn't too much work to do on the race cars, I'm going to try to get it on the lift today and figure out a plan of attack on stripping it out and maybe mock up a roll cage in 3/4" EMT.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 08, 2010 5:29 am 

Joined: Wed Jun 18, 2008 11:59 am
Posts: 282
Location: Atlanta, GA
Sounds fun, i have always wanted to do some rally racing.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 08, 2010 10:50 am 
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Joined: Wed Jul 16, 2008 9:51 am
Posts: 79
Location: Barbados
Looks like a good, solid body to start with. :tu: Easiest place to start is to strip the interior, remove the sound deadener and go from there. Seam welding and some chassis reinforcement would be good too if you want to do off road rallies. These little, Jap tin cans can take a good set of abuse but gravel and dirt rallies do put a lot of stress on cars.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 08, 2010 5:45 pm 

Joined: Sun Sep 05, 2010 7:47 am
Posts: 51
Location: Atlanta
slims wrote:
Looks like a good, solid body to start with. :tu: Easiest place to start is to strip the interior, remove the sound deadener and go from there. Seam welding and some chassis reinforcement would be good too if you want to do off road rallies. These little, Jap tin cans can take a good set of abuse but gravel and dirt rallies do put a lot of stress on cars.


YEP! Already started:


The 310 sitting out behind the race shop:
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dash has issues....

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Started stripping the tar off of the floor with a chisel and hammer... got the driver's side. Getting it ready for seam welding...

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test spot on the roof cleaned up nicely with a flat can of coca cola and a rag:
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If anybody wants a good condition 210 interior minus carpets then I'm selling mine cheap. $100 will get the seats and all interior panels/ headliner with matching seatbelts, etc... (except the kick panel part at the bottom of the door, those were broken up.)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 08, 2010 5:52 pm 

Joined: Sun Sep 05, 2010 7:47 am
Posts: 51
Location: Atlanta
Somebody on one of the forums was saying how the 310 brakes were beefy and did not really need upgrading..... The caliper is like the size of a baseball! No way I'm going to use that. Got to figure out if I can use my 240z suspension with the Toyota 4 piston calipers and figure out what to do for a control arm and maybe use a steering rack and toss the 40's technology steering.
Wheels are going to be 0 offset steel 15x8 DRW wheels that were on my early 260z.
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 08, 2010 6:09 pm 
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Posts: 8537
Location: Arlington, TX, USA
Master-O-Turbonics wrote:
Somebody on one of the forums was saying how the 310 brakes were beefy and did not really need upgrading.....


They are wrong. 8)

Quote:
Got to figure out if I can use my 240z suspension with the Toyota 4 piston calipers and figure out what to do for a control arm and maybe use a steering rack


To do that you'll need to use EVERYTHING from a donor 240Z/280Z, crossmember, rack, struts, LCAs, etc.

Then you'll need to fab an extension to the steering shaft since you're going from rear-steer to front-steer.

This will also require swapping your oil pan and pick-up tube for one from a '74-78 B210 (it's rear sump instead of front sump like the B310/210), or just doing the smart thing and dropping in an L20b/5spd. :wink:

The easiest (and most effective) brake upgrade is '79-83 280ZX struts/brakes. For that you only need the struts/brakes from the donor. :tu:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 08, 2010 6:29 pm 

Joined: Sun Sep 05, 2010 7:47 am
Posts: 51
Location: Atlanta
datsunfreak wrote:
Master-O-Turbonics wrote:
Somebody on one of the forums was saying how the 310 brakes were beefy and did not really need upgrading.....


They are wrong. 8)

Quote:
Got to figure out if I can use my 240z suspension with the Toyota 4 piston calipers and figure out what to do for a control arm and maybe use a steering rack


To do that you'll need to use EVERYTHING from a donor 240Z/280Z, crossmember, rack, struts, LCAs, etc.

Then you'll need to fab an extension to the steering shaft since you're going from rear-steer to front-steer.

This will also require swapping your oil pan and pick-up tube for one from a '74-78 B210 (it's rear sump instead of front sump like the B310/210), or just doing the smart thing and dropping in an L20b/5spd. :wink:

The easiest (and most effective) brake upgrade is '79-83 280ZX struts/brakes. For that you only need the struts/brakes from the donor. :tu:


Steering stuff is easy...
The A series will be left in there until I finish my Z22ET motor with ITB's and a Holset. Top end is 85% done and I have all the bottom end parts.. Still need some of the EFI parts...
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theory is, instead of pumping heat of EGR into the chamber, pack heat from lots of air. L series heads suck as far as detonation resistance goes, so I figured I'd give this a shot.

I have 280zx struts minus the calipers, and 240z struts with bigger brakes. I think I'll swap Z car stuff since I plan on running a track width wider than the mouse width track lol...
Trying to find a Mustang 8.8 rear end with the Datsun lug bolt pattern and setting it up with the datsun 4 link brackets...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 08, 2010 6:45 pm 
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Master-O-Turbonics wrote:
I plan on running a track width wider than the mouse width track lol...


Then an all-240Z front end is definitely a good way to go. :tu: :mrgreen:

Quote:
Trying to find a Mustang 8.8 rear end with the Datsun lug bolt pattern and setting it up with the datsun 4 link brackets...


I'm betting you will have to get the axles re-drilled? Ford hasn't used the 4x4.5" bolt pattern in anything since the late '60s/early '70s.

A nice upgrade could be an '80-83 200SX rear axle? Gets you disc brakes, stout gears/third member, and is darn near a bolt-in. Also has the nice side benefit of widening the track just enough to match the front. :wink:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 08, 2010 6:55 pm 

Joined: Sun Sep 05, 2010 7:47 am
Posts: 51
Location: Atlanta
datsunfreak wrote:
Master-O-Turbonics wrote:
I plan on running a track width wider than the mouse width track lol...


Then an all-240Z front end is definitely a good way to go. :tu: :mrgreen:

Quote:
Trying to find a Mustang 8.8 rear end with the Datsun lug bolt pattern and setting it up with the datsun 4 link brackets...


I'm betting you will have to get the axles re-drilled? Ford hasn't used the 4x4.5" bolt pattern in anything since the late '60s/early '70s.

A nice upgrade could be an '80-83 200SX rear axle? Gets you disc brakes, stout gears/third member, and is darn near a bolt-in. Also has the nice side benefit of widening the track just enough to match the front. :wink:


87-93 fox body mustangs had an 8.8 rear axle with 4 on 4.5" bolt pattern.

I did not know the 200sx had a solid axle... I'll have to look into that as the 8.8 is beefy enough for ~300hp(more than I need) and then room to spare... offroad driving at speed has a tendency to wear stuff out way faster.

This 310 has the world's tiniest differential.. 145mm ring gear smaller than a legends car differential. LOL!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 08, 2010 7:00 pm 
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Location: Arlington, TX, USA
Master-O-Turbonics wrote:
87-93 fox body mustangs had an 8.8 rear axle with 4 on 4.5" bolt pattern.


Might want to double-check that. All the books say every Fox-body Mustang is 4x4.25" (aka 4x108mm).


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 09, 2010 3:57 am 

Joined: Sun Sep 05, 2010 7:47 am
Posts: 51
Location: Atlanta
datsunfreak wrote:
Master-O-Turbonics wrote:
87-93 fox body mustangs had an 8.8 rear axle with 4 on 4.5" bolt pattern.


Might want to double-check that. All the books say every Fox-body Mustang is 4x4.25" (aka 4x108mm).


Thanks, my source was apparently at error.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 09, 2010 12:18 pm 

Joined: Sun Apr 12, 2009 4:25 pm
Posts: 22
Location: South Dakota,USA
nice b310 man...cant wait to see the car when its finished...check out my b310!!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 09, 2010 3:35 pm 
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Master-O-Turbonics wrote:
Thanks, my source was apparently at error.


Good. I was starting to think I was going crazy... :P

Seen good success using a later-model Ford Explorer 8.8 with axles/rotors redrilled to a Datsun bolt pattern?

Gets you nice fat disc brakes too... 8)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 09, 2010 6:04 pm 

Joined: Sun Sep 05, 2010 7:47 am
Posts: 51
Location: Atlanta
the clutch came in:
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Holy crap thats small. LOL


going to need to make some brackets to mount the seats to the floor but its a nice fit:
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They are Talon seats I got for $20 each at the junkyard. I like the lumbar support in the drivers seat.

Tomorrow is busy in the race shop so I won't be able to work on the 210 any...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 23, 2010 8:40 am 
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Joined: Wed Jul 16, 2008 9:51 am
Posts: 79
Location: Barbados
Hey man, what's the latest on the build?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Oct 15, 2010 5:16 pm 

Joined: Sun Sep 05, 2010 7:47 am
Posts: 51
Location: Atlanta
I've been really busy but the last few days I got some work done on the car. I actually got insurance and a tag today and drove it 55 miles!


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I pulled out the old tail lights and started looking at the hole in the back of the car.....
Looked really close to the 240Z tail lights I had in the basement so a little trimming and here is what came out.
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I took the 210 tail light harness connector out and pulled out each of the pins. With the help of my service manual I was able to wire in a 260Z wiring harness(better condition than the 240Z light harness) into the stock 210 connector so no cutting at all is required on the body harness.

210 3 light harness
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260Z light harness
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 01, 2010 7:43 pm 

Joined: Sun Sep 05, 2010 7:47 am
Posts: 51
Location: Atlanta
Before:
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After:

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