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 Post subject: Mitsubishi Galant Sigma 1976 - water leak problem
PostPosted: Tue Jun 30, 2009 2:11 am 
Galant Sigma 1976 here, in Moscow. You can see photos here: http://fdcupload.com/d18f1u18vito/sigma.rar.htm (password: asdwafwe3). Please, don’t upload these photos anywhere else. The car wasn’t driven for 23 years. And I’ve got 2 problems: brakes (right forward brake was clutched) and the leak of water. I’ve solved the first problem by disassembling brake, taking out piston, cleaning rust and pumping brakes. The second problem: because of cold weather water inside the engine had frozen and damaged the plug under the carburetor. Now, the engine overheats after 10 minutes of driving, and hot water flows from this plug. I have a new plug, but I don’t know how to disassemble Astron 80 4G52 2 liter engine. I would be very much obliged for any scheme, photo of the engine or any advice.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 30, 2009 12:20 pm 
JNC Fanatic

Joined: Wed Feb 13, 2008 2:43 am
Posts: 1106
Location: scappoose, or
while this isnt the g52b it is basically the exact same engine with larger pistons. It is the 2.6l version.

That will show you how to take it apart.
http://www.starquestgarage.com/manuals/ ... engine.pdf


Hopefully the block did not crack. Dont forget to use some form a gasket on the plug when you drive the new freezeplug in.

I'm willing to bet the radiator is bad also if it has sat for 25 years. You will want to get the whole cooling sysem flushed.

_________________
31 3000gt vr4
88 starion x2, 83 starion
88 cordia turbo
87 Montero swb turbo, 1987 Minicab van Supercharged
86 mighty max 4x4
84, 85, and 86 lancer ex1800 turbo
78 lancer
73 galant coupe
65 Debonair Deluxe
80's Hero
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 01, 2009 4:33 am 
OK. Thank you! I'm going to start disassembling today. I'll post more photos ASAP. Hope, there is no crack in the block and the radiator is safe.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 01, 2009 12:44 pm 
I didn’t have much time today, but I managed to take off fuel pump and turn off a few nuts. So here are photos.
Common view:
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Carburetor:
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I tried to take a photo of damaged plug, but no luck…
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These are not usual brake blocks. It was almost impossible to buy a foreign car in USSR, and this Sigma is not a numerous exception. Also there were only 3 service centers which served foreign cars. All of them were in Moscow. Spare parts could be bought only for foreign currency. And currency exchange was illegal operation (guilty was sent to prison). When this brake blocks became depreciated previous owner decided to repair them. Old brake lining was cut off then he has found same material, cut new lining and riveted it to a shoe. Unfortunately, pressure was too heavy and new material cracked. After that he somehow bought new Mitsubish brake blocks.
1:
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2:
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3:
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A lot of pipes:
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Carburetor:
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Fuel pump hole:
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Inside:
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This was the most inflexible nut (under the pipe):
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Fuel pump:
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After work:
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Now I’m going to take off inlet manifold, clean it, replace the plug and assemble it. Then flush and check all cooling system.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 01, 2009 1:00 pm 
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Joined: Sat Dec 29, 2007 5:05 am
Posts: 307
Location: Clevakron, Ohio
Welcome! :D

Glad to hear that there are no cracks in the engine block. Didn't open the file with the photo of your car, but would like to see some posted up on here when/if you're able to.

Are you able to get a new freeze plug?

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1979 Plymouth Fire Arrow
2005 Scion xB Super Toaster


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2009 12:36 am 
I've already ordered the plug, thought, that delivery would take one day, but it takes up to 5 days.

FireArrow, here they are:
1. Emblem:
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2. Common view:
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3. Rear view:
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4. The other side:
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5:
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6:
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7. USSR licence plate:
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8:
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9:
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10. Interior:
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11. Low milage. Only 59K km:
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12. Radio works fine! All speakers work too:
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13:
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14:
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15:
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16:
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17:
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18:
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19:
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20:
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21:
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22. What does that mean?
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2009 2:59 pm 
Administrator
User avatar

Joined: Thu Jan 18, 2007 5:41 pm
Posts: 5591
Location: LA
Excellent! I really like the Galant Sigma.Welcome to JNC :tu:

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Tyler wrote:
How I long for a shit brown wagon.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2009 7:47 pm 
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Joined: Fri Apr 17, 2009 9:34 pm
Posts: 131
Location: Christchurch, New Zealand
Awesome sigma!
im fixing one up thats just the same
but mines 4g52 5 speed


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2009 1:16 am 
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Joined: Sat Dec 29, 2007 5:05 am
Posts: 307
Location: Clevakron, Ohio
Very cool. :tu: :D

I love the interior -- hard to believe it's from '76.

Thanks for posting all of the pics!

_________________
1979 Plymouth Fire Arrow
2005 Scion xB Super Toaster


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2009 12:33 pm 
Thank you!

Today I disconnected a lot of pipes and turned off 1 nut (it took me 1/2 hour – so inaccessible!). Sorry, I forgot camera at home (and my favourite nut wrench set :( ), but I took off only petroleum filter – not much interesting. I found out, that the accelerator cable goes to carburetor, and then it continues to transmission. What is it for (I mean the part, which goes to transmission)? Should I calibrate it after disassembling? BTW, I haven’t received the plug yet :(


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2009 4:03 pm 
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Joined: Sat Dec 29, 2007 5:05 am
Posts: 307
Location: Clevakron, Ohio
The linkage going from the carburetor to the transmission is the "second gear kick down." These are common to the automatic transmissions.

When you accelerate - especially when you're already at speed and are attempting to pass other vehicles or just doing a hard acceleration - the secondaries in the carburetor open and the second gear kick down lever downshifts the transmission.

There's more to it than what I've described, and I may not be using the correct terminology, but that is, in essence, what the linkage does.

And yes, it will need to be adjusted to work properly and shift the transmission at appropriate times.

Hope this helps.

_________________
1979 Plymouth Fire Arrow
2005 Scion xB Super Toaster


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2009 12:51 pm 
FireArrow, thank you very much. That really helped!

I have some good and some bad news. I managed to take off inlet manifold and the engine is not cracked. These are good news. There are 2 damaged plugs, I ordered wrong plug and they don’t have plugs for this engine – these are bad news. Also I can’t find the proper gasket, but I think it would be easy to make one on my own or use liquid gasket. I need some more help, if possible :)

1. Engine without manifold:
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2:
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3. Manifold:
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4. First damaged plug (diameter = 5 cm. = 1.97 inches.):
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5. Second damaged plug still bleeding. I’m kidding – it is a rust (diameter = 2.8 cm. = 1.1 inch.):
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6. Mainfold:
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7:
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8:
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9. Manifold attaching point:
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10. Inside (you can see the valve):
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11. Better view of valve:
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12. Just scheme:
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13:
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14. Valid plug:
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15. Another valid plug:
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16. I tried to clean damaged plug – no luck. Karcher required :)
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17. Leak
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18. The other damaged plug – it was knocked out:
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19. Manifold:
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20:
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21. Here I need some advice. Look at the carburetor part with “Solex” label. What is it for? It has rusty piston, which is unable to move and it connected with cooling system. Also it has some rod connected with another part of carburetor. I think the piston is unable to move. What should I do with it: disassemble and clean or don’t touch at all? In case of disassemling I’m afraid of resetting carburetor settings and that I’ll unable to find some spare parts.
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22. Rust on the piston:
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23. Another angel of view:
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24. This pipe goes from rusty part and end here:
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25. Moving rod. Position 1:
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26. Moving rod. Position 2. I think it is unable to move by itself.
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27. Common view:
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28:
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29:
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30:
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I’ll visit some more shops tomorrow and try to find gasket (or liquid gasket) and plugs.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2009 3:01 pm 
JNC Fanatic

Joined: Wed Feb 13, 2008 2:43 am
Posts: 1106
Location: scappoose, or
That rod part, or the entire part that says solex that has the 2 water lines on it are just the water operated CHokes. You might be able to just disable that by undoing the linkage. I dont know if the choke operates any kind of idle circuit in the carb though.

The vacuum canister with the small vaccum line is the vac secondary which opens up your secondary butterfly

As for intake gasket, try finding one for a 1980 l200 truck or l300 van, it might work. If worse comes to worse, cut a gasket, dont use form a gasket. It wouldnt be that hard to make a gasket.

The freeze plugs are basically universal. Just measure the diameter of the plug and then go to the parts store and ask for a freeze plug with the dimeter you measured.

_________________
31 3000gt vr4
88 starion x2, 83 starion
88 cordia turbo
87 Montero swb turbo, 1987 Minicab van Supercharged
86 mighty max 4x4
84, 85, and 86 lancer ex1800 turbo
78 lancer
73 galant coupe
65 Debonair Deluxe
80's Hero
Image


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2009 4:21 pm 
Administrator

Joined: Sat Mar 24, 2007 8:45 pm
Posts: 2575
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"unleaded fuel only" :wink:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 08, 2009 1:42 pm 
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Joined: Sun Apr 06, 2008 3:57 am
Posts: 17
Location: Belarus, Minsk
Hi CbIP!
Pishi mne na skd@tut.by, dymau smogy pomoch konsultation, y menya Mitsu Sapporo '79
Nasobiral mnogo info po starym Mitsu

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Mitsu Sapporo 79, 1.6 4G32B


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 23, 2009 12:20 pm 
Hi all! Sorry for long pause – I was on holydays then finally solved problem with overheating.
I cleaned up engine and intake manifold (click the photo to enlarge):
Image
I was unable to find gaskets and plugs :( so I cut gaskets by myself…
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…and used cold welding to repair plugs:
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This is temporary decision (until I find original plugs), but it works. I used “ABRO steal” to repair plugs and black gasket maker as a sealant:
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Almost assembled engine (without fuel pump):
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To fix fuel pump I used 5 gaskets from VAZ-2107 (Russian car) and liquid gasket as a sealant, but oil still oozes out the pump. That’s not the biggest my problem.
Image
Assembled engine:
Image
Image
Sigma doesn’t overheat any more! But I found out another problem. I was driving around the garage, the temperature was about 80 C (176 F), when the car just refused to respond to accelerator and cut out. I started engine two more times, and all the times it cut out after 1 min. Then it just refused to start. I checked fuel level in carburetor – it was max. (all the glass was filled). After cooling and pedaling gas (fuel level became mid.) it started normally and I was able put Sigma in the garage. I think that either the carburetor settings disturbed or its pneumatic system doesn’t work.

I’d be very obliged for advice or scheme of carburetor.

P.S. Let’s learn some car-o-sutra :D
Image
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Sigma:
Image
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And me:
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P.P.S skd, thank you! I’ve send you an e-mail.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 20, 2010 4:20 am 

Joined: Wed Jan 20, 2010 4:02 am
Posts: 25
Location: Australia
I love this car! I so wish I had a Japanese Super Saloon!! Mine is the Australian spec SE luxury model, but it's not as luxurious as this one!

Also, I hope the owner doesn't mind but I've added a few photos of this car here and there in my blog dedicated to Sigmas: http://bad-sig.blogspot.com/

_________________
Pls visit my blog dedicated to my GE Sigma!!!
http://www.galant-sigma.com
Also check out http://www.sigma-galant.com for all your oldschool Mitsubishi needs!!
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 Post subject: My Australian GE Sigma
PostPosted: Fri Oct 01, 2010 10:51 pm 

Joined: Fri Oct 01, 2010 10:49 pm
Posts: 4
Location: Sydney, Australia
Great car!


John


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 Post subject: Dashboard
PostPosted: Fri Oct 01, 2010 10:54 pm 

Joined: Fri Oct 01, 2010 10:49 pm
Posts: 4
Location: Sydney, Australia
Hey - love the oil and ammeter gauges. Australian cars only had warning lights.


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 Post subject: Pictures of my Australian GE Sigma
PostPosted: Fri Oct 01, 2010 10:55 pm 

Joined: Fri Oct 01, 2010 10:49 pm
Posts: 4
Location: Sydney, Australia
http://john116.polaroidstudio.com/view_photo.php?set_albumName=album01&id=dscf0573


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