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PostPosted: Tue Jul 21, 2009 3:10 pm 
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You should post a link to this thread in your Swap Meet section ad.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jul 25, 2009 11:20 am 

Joined: Tue Mar 17, 2009 6:54 pm
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Location: Burlington, Ontario Canada
Any pics of the front suspension?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 31, 2009 5:12 am 
No, front suspension is damaged (1 broken tension rod), but the rest of it is OK. I put new control arms on it a few years ago shortly before I had to park it.
What kind of pictures?


rsdeo wrote:
Any pics of the front suspension?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 11, 2009 6:37 pm 

Joined: Sun May 31, 2009 4:13 am
Posts: 21
No, I don't have pics of the front suspension. It's just a standard McPherson strut arrangement (with rear wheel drive).


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 Post subject: 1979 Mazda 626
PostPosted: Sun Sep 13, 2009 4:26 am 
Do you have any idea what other motors fit straight in to the 626 as I have a 1979 626 and the engine is not happy but I have had a jap wrecker suggest a 1983 model engine and if this works what other engines fit ? :oops:

I just recently spent about $800 on the suspension (monroe GT Sport gas struts and shocks with 1 and a half inch lowered springs) and I am trying to fix my beastie up a bit


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 21, 2009 9:00 pm 

Joined: Sun May 31, 2009 4:13 am
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Last edited by 1981 Mazda 626 on Sun Jul 03, 2011 5:51 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 22, 2009 5:23 pm 
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Joined: Fri Aug 15, 2008 11:19 pm
Posts: 90
Location: Melbourne, Australia
where MA lives, FE will fit, but not from the next 626, look for B/E2000, mazda 929 some of which had turbos and EFIs, and turbo efi :)

from memory last of CBs came with FEs???

however the FE from GC 626 would still work (motor is the same essentially) stuffing around with distributor though and watter lines (probably still would need bits from RWD FEs)

and if you want to really stuff around with electrics, you can always go for FE-DOHC, mounts are the same as FE 8Valve, only EFI and 140-170hp to boot


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 05, 2009 6:04 pm 
That's in pretty good condition, most of those cars rusted to death here in the States.
Are the engines on these prone to blowing head gaskets ?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Nov 06, 2009 4:28 am 
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Location: Villeneuve, Qld, Australia
1982 Mazda 626 wrote:
That's in pretty good condition, most of those cars rusted to death here in the States.
Are the engines on these prone to blowing head gaskets ?


oh Yeah!! wish I had a dollar for every NA/VC/MA headgasket I've done, damn the museum would be finished!!!

Thought of a turboed MA?? a good friend and I are doing that to a Capella at the moment. My old 79 626 I actually supercharged the MA and it frigging flew. Certainly put a few of the rotary boys to shame.

MAZ79, I would recommend some nothathane bushes too for your suspension arms, makes it handle almost go-kart like.

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Putting together a Mazda/Japanese motor museum. New bigger venue for the museum has been bought, watch this space!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Nov 06, 2009 4:53 pm 
B1500boy wrote:
Mate, looks like a nice clean example there, even the spare ones. I've got an identical 1981 model, but with the auto box. Not on the road yet though due to the usual Mazda headgasket failure.


Are they prone to head gasket issues ? I just saved an 82 from one of those mini demo derby guys, and don't know too much about them.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 12:37 am 
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1982 Mazda 626 wrote:
B1500boy wrote:
Mate, looks like a nice clean example there, even the spare ones. I've got an identical 1981 model, but with the auto box. Not on the road yet though due to the usual Mazda headgasket failure.


Are they prone to head gasket issues ? I just saved an 82 from one of those mini demo derby guys, and don't know too much about them.


Certainly can be. Usually poor quality coolant is a Mazda's engines worst enemy. They are prone to internal heat and blow out between cylinder's 2 and 3. The MA 2 litre was better but by no means free from the problems as Mazda were starting to use plastic tank radiators by the 626 which didn't have the same size cooling surface as earlier Mazda's.

There was also a very common fault in the top two factory cast ports. If you look under the cam shaft you will see two upright alloy cylinders with a sorta cap in them. They were basically glued in from factory after the cylinder head was cast, but service life had them leaking after about ten years. They can make the headgasket blow as well mainly due to heat transfer. It's quite easily fixed though using tig welding done at your local engine reconditioning shop. Just need to weld the caps in and over the top of them, just make sure that you give them the camshaft to make sure it doesn't hit them!

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Too many Mazda's in the collection. 4 Mitsubishi's, 6 Toyota's and now 3 Datsun's as well.
Putting together a Mazda/Japanese motor museum. New bigger venue for the museum has been bought, watch this space!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 12:43 am 
B1500boy wrote:
1982 Mazda 626 wrote:
B1500boy wrote:
Mate, looks like a nice clean example there, even the spare ones. I've got an identical 1981 model, but with the auto box. Not on the road yet though due to the usual Mazda headgasket failure.


Are they prone to head gasket issues ? I just saved an 82 from one of those mini demo derby guys, and don't know too much about them.


Certainly can be. Usually poor quality coolant is a Mazda's engines worst enemy. They are prone to internal heat and blow out between cylinder's 2 and 3. The MA 2 litre was better but by no means free from the problems as Mazda were starting to use plastic tank radiators by the 626 which didn't have the same size cooling surface as earlier Mazda's.

There was also a very common fault in the top two factory cast ports. If you look under the cam shaft you will see two upright alloy cylinders with a sorta cap in them. They were basically glued in from factory after the cylinder head was cast, but service life had them leaking after about ten years. They can make the headgasket blow as well mainly due to heat transfer. It's quite easily fixed though using tig welding done at your local engine reconditioning shop. Just need to weld the caps in and over the top of them, just make sure that you give them the camshaft to make sure it doesn't hit them!


Thanks for the info; yea, poor coolant can be the deathnail in an aluminum head engine. I picked the car up for cheap, theres almost none left in my area (due to rust) this one although rough has a very good body. It has 170,000 miles, it wouldn't surprise me if the head has already been off.
Do the timing chains become an issue with these miles ?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 1:20 am 
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yeap, can do. Usually the actual adjuster gives away first, but the will get a rattle. They are a bit hard to see as they sit behind that triangular plate on the timing case which unfortunately sits behind the water pump!! Nice one Mazda! They usually run out of ratchet and can come out of the housing but do wedge themselves into the gap, stop the rattle but wearing all the alloy off them and in turn going through the engine. I've seen a few engines pulled apart in my time looking for bearings and then finding that out.

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Too many Mazda's in the collection. 4 Mitsubishi's, 6 Toyota's and now 3 Datsun's as well.
Putting together a Mazda/Japanese motor museum. New bigger venue for the museum has been bought, watch this space!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 12:26 pm 
B1500boy wrote:
yeap, can do. Usually the actual adjuster gives away first, but the will get a rattle. They are a bit hard to see as they sit behind that triangular plate on the timing case which unfortunately sits behind the water pump!! Nice one Mazda! They usually run out of ratchet and can come out of the housing but do wedge themselves into the gap, stop the rattle but wearing all the alloy off them and in turn going through the engine. I've seen a few engines pulled apart in my time looking for bearings and then finding that out.


Thanks again. I gotta give this engine credit despite all the miles it runs pretty well and doesn't smoke.
I'm going to go ahead and change the coolant, although it doesnt run hot its not very clean looking.
Is there anything else I should look for on this engine ? I'm going to use it as a back up car, but if gas goes way back up It might see more use including long trips.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 1:08 am 
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yeah, they are a fairly bullet proof engine, my 626 hardtop sports 290 k on the clock and still runs quite nice.

I find personally quite regular oils changes help. They do seem to go through rocker cover gaskets, but that's been happening since the the 1.5 UB in 1967! Mine tend to eat up spark plugs too, but we do get a rather odd mix of blended fuels now in Australia.

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Too many Mazda's in the collection. 4 Mitsubishi's, 6 Toyota's and now 3 Datsun's as well.
Putting together a Mazda/Japanese motor museum. New bigger venue for the museum has been bought, watch this space!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 11:30 pm 
B1500boy wrote:
yeah, they are a fairly bullet proof engine, my 626 hardtop sports 290 k on the clock and still runs quite nice.

I find personally quite regular oils changes help. They do seem to go through rocker cover gaskets, but that's been happening since the the 1.5 UB in 1967! Mine tend to eat up spark plugs too, but we do get a rather odd mix of blended fuels now in Australia.


Preventive maintenance goes a long way. Mine really runs well for 170,000 miles (about 300K kilometers) I suspect the head has been off it, especially considering its 28 years old.
Biggest problem with this car is there's none left and it's largely forgotten, so junkyard parts are non existent


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 08, 2009 12:43 pm 

Joined: Sun May 31, 2009 4:13 am
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Last edited by 1981 Mazda 626 on Sun Jul 03, 2011 5:52 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 7:29 pm 

Joined: Sun Apr 11, 2010 7:26 pm
Posts: 5
Location: Papamoa NZ
i have a mazda b1600, with a 2l MA engine from a 626. It has been backfiring on quite a regular basis. Any help?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 12, 2010 4:31 am 

Joined: Sun Apr 04, 2010 5:47 am
Posts: 24
Location: belgium
If the timing hasn't been tampered with, I'd check for air leaks in and around the carby.

Is it intake or exhaust backfire? Does it backfire on acceleration? Deceleration? All the time?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 12, 2010 12:29 pm 

Joined: Sun Apr 11, 2010 7:26 pm
Posts: 5
Location: Papamoa NZ
it backfires out the exhaust, on acceration.. well when cruising. foot about 20% throtle. then itll backfire out the carb and that will sometimes fix it. I found the breather hose has a crack, ill fix that and see. the main needle is also dripping in the carb


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