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What engine should go in my Rx3 sedan ?
Single distributor 12a Rx3 engine 29%  29%  [ 7 ]
Twin distributor 12a PP engine 33%  33%  [ 8 ]
1600 808 4 cylinder 4%  4%  [ 1 ]
Leave it with the stock 10a drive line 25%  25%  [ 6 ]
Give my 12a housings to Dave and move on to the next big thing the Toyota Lexcen 8%  8%  [ 2 ]
Total votes : 24
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 Post subject: Re: 1973 Mazda Rx3
PostPosted: Mon Oct 31, 2011 11:03 pm 
JNC Enthusiast

Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:09 pm
Posts: 614
Location: Australia
Haha, what will you do when it's all done ?

Been chipping away some more, insides of guards are now stone guarded, will most likely paint the insides next week. Blocking the bonnet for paint as well. Would have finished it if it didn't start sprinkling. Also doing minor filler work to the nose to finish it off for primer, cabin is also being cleaned up, will most likely spray some primer there as well to tidy it up. We'll decide on that one once I finish vacuuming and cleaning the car out....... Not long now before all body work is finished.

Still need to sort out the gearbox mounts and lots of other bits and pieces, trying to mix it up a little. I've got more small bits coming back from the blasters this week and might drop more stuff off at the platers for the gold chromate finish. The starter motor has my attention as well, I'll be rebuilding it soon. Diff will be sent away shortly for a rebuild as well, only thing holding it back is the damn axles are being a bitch to remove. It's all happening now :)


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 Post subject: Re: 1973 Mazda Rx3
PostPosted: Tue Nov 01, 2011 9:56 pm 

Joined: Wed Jul 30, 2008 7:39 am
Posts: 310
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Quote:
only thing holding it back is the damn axles are being a bitch to remove. It's all happening now :)


Might be stating the obvious, but tried bolting a wheel/drum cover on backwards and loosely to use as a slide hammer? its always worked for me, including when i twisted a spline once.

I might be asking abit much but any way you could get a close up of the surface [pre-rub] of your highfill? Mines getting smoother but its still abit "rough" compared to what my panelbeater puts out.

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 Post subject: Re: 1973 Mazda Rx3
PostPosted: Wed Nov 02, 2011 1:33 am 
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Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:09 pm
Posts: 614
Location: Australia
F3ared wrote:
Quote:
only thing holding it back is the damn axles are being a bitch to remove. It's all happening now :)


Might be stating the obvious, but tried bolting a wheel/drum cover on backwards and loosely to use as a slide hammer? its always worked for me, including when i twisted a spline once.

I might be asking abit much but any way you could get a close up of the surface [pre-rub] of your highfill? Mines getting smoother but its still abit "rough" compared to what my panelbeater puts out.


If you look at the photo above you'll notice that is exactly what Im doing with the rear drum brake, and yes the nuts to the backing plate have been removed.

Here are some close ups for you of the front guards which have not been rubbed back, straight off the spray gun. They won't be touched for another couple of weeks, gives me a chance to work on other parts of the car. If you are looking for orange peel there is none, the Hi Fill went on pretty flat, meaning wet sanding with 600 and a guide coat should be a breeze.

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Here are some tips...

Adjust your regulator and bump it up a little over the gun manufacturers recommendation, pull the gun trigger and the regulator should drop a little but remain stable.

Have a wide fan for adjusting

Fine adjustment can be done at the gun. Once the reg is set, if you have excessive orange peel, you can bump up the air pressure at the gun or wind in the fluid knob a little so less paint is atomised (mixed) with air, say a 1/4 of a turn each try. What you want is small paint atomised droplets, the more paint you are spraying the more air is required and the more product you'll be wasting (ends up in the air instead of the panel). You want to build up layers and let the primer or paint flash off between coats. Slapping it on in thick coats is going to cause you problems such as solvent pop (air bubbles) as the solvents try and escape from the paint or primer. You may get away with it with the primer but not when it comes to top coats !

2K HI Fill generally requires a 1.8 -> 2.5mm nozzle and needle setup. Check you primer tech sheet.
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If you are spraying on a very hot day the primer may be drying as it hits the panel causing dry spray or excessive peel. You may need a slow, med or fast reducer to suit the temp. Fast for cold weather and slow for hot weather to allow the primer to flow properly.

You can reduce the last primer top coat to flow better by adding more reducer, your tech sheet will cover the ratio. (I personally wouldnt bother, you're going to sand it anyway)

Always read the tech sheet and don't touch the fan once the gun is adjusted.

All in all its no big deal with primer because you're going to sand it anyway before you spray the top coats. You're just saving sanding and prep time by spraying it right to start with, if you are learning like most its no big deal at the primer stage. Paint stage is where it matters, shit prep and surface also means a bad result. Min compressor size would be a quality 15cfm as a minimum, 17cfm and a 100L is the way to go for a home setup.

Check the gun air consumption V's the compressors ability to supply the required air flow. Anything below 15cfm and a 60L tank and you're just kidding yourself as this is just adequate in my opinion (what I have).

Nothing like practice !


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 Post subject: Re: 1973 Mazda Rx3
PostPosted: Sat Nov 19, 2011 12:59 am 
JNC Enthusiast

Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:09 pm
Posts: 614
Location: Australia
Small update... Ive started cleaning up bits and pieces for reassembly. I've spoken to Cobra recently who reckons I'm better off fitting the spare 12a radiator I have instead of the 10a one. He gave an original unit a go and said the motor was running noticeably hotter, something to think about when the time comes to fire up the new engine. Undecided at this point, as long as it looks factory like I'm not too fussed about originality. I'm the type of person who likes to play around with things.

The bonnet ready for final blocking, in actual fact its ready for painting as are the front guards. Pic 2, small parts are blasted ready for primer mainly so doors can go together.
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Pic 1, parts were given a quick coat of primer to seal them. Aside from the battery tray none of them will be seen. Pic 2, door mirror stalks disassembled so they can be sent away for plating. Different people do different types of plating, these require someone who specialises in cast alloy. Give them to someone who doesnt know what they are doing and they'll dissolve to nothing in the caustic tank. One mirror had a damaged mirror holder which I'll replace. Both stalks have pitted chrome.
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Pic 1, left door mirror holes were pre drilled prior to painting. I'll make a metal base plate with captive nuts just like the drivers side. This will reinforce the door and prevent paint cracking and damaging the surrounding metal. Everyone seems to love fender mirrors except for me, they remind me of the old HQ's towing caravans ! I'll probably use panel adhesive to attach the bracket to the inside of the door. Pic 2, more bits blasted ready for primer. Also found a Rx3 cross member thanks to Rohan.
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Thats it, not sure where to next... wouldnt mind firing up the new 10a \:D/


Update 19-11-2011

Not much happening lately. I've started going through some of the boxes of parts and sending things away for a make over. I think things are getting out of hand as I never intended to refresh everything. I'm not big of show cars, just useable classics that don't get you too upset when you get the stone chips or general wear and tear. Well, that was the initial goal, if only I stuck too the original plan, a 13B and a set of wheels I would have been driving it years ago #-o

While dropping some special stuff off in long term warehouse storage some 900km's away, I was pondering whether the next car will actually be another Rx3 coupe. I'm pretty sure there will be another however its a tough decision between taking on a 13B Rx4 coupe or a 12a Rx3 coupe. If I had to rank my personal preference the Rx4 coupe follows a very close second to Rx3 coupes, then the Rx2 coupe, Rx3 sedan and then probably an R100. The Rx4 to me is the closest thing Mazda made to a muscle car, cockpit dash, large wheel arches, agressive front end, how could you go wrong ! If the Rx4 didnt exist I'd be looking at Australian Chargers at some point to relive my wogboy days ! The Rx4 is a mans car if you ask me, the smaller they get the girlier they are too me. 8-[

....enough of my dribble

I got my mirrors back the other day, much better now, no more chrome pits. Next I need to polish the stainless housings and then reassemble them. I'll probably make some new base rubber gaskets as well.
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Spent a bit of time test fitting some new weather strips and window regulator so I can find all the required parts for reassembly. The car is a bit dusty :oops:
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More parts came back from the platers, I think I have one more final run to do and then Im done. I basically send everything off now, whether it needs to be plated or not. Its a great cheap way of having someone else clean up all your dirty rusty parts.... I do absolutely nothing to them apart from putting them in a box and dropping them off. Pic 1, starter motor rear housing and all the nuts and bolts. I'll also check the commutator, soleniod and brushes before it goes back together basically making it as new. Oh yeah there's also some water housing studs there as well ! Pic 2 we have brake fluid brackets, horn components which came up really well considering it looked like oxided junk, and the horn nuts and bolts. I havent decided whether to prime and paint the horn parts that were painted from factory or leave them in the gold finish.
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Pic 1, ashtray bracket, factory hose clamps, fuel filter bracket, McPherson strut nuts, bolts and washers, and finally brake hose clips. Pic 2,rear bar brackets, more suspension nuts and bolts, door catch and front tow hook bolts, front bar bracket bolts.
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Glass and regulator fitted so I can locate all the necessary parts from my boxes of parts. All this stuff is coming apart again once I locate everything. The regulators have already been replated as seen in a previous update.
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Guards ready for wet blocking and gave the rear a quick coat of paint. If the guards were'nt rust free I would have tossed them....... I bet none of you knew Mazda pumped the flares at the factory :roll:
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Pic 1, Stone guard, primer and and another quick coat of paint. Pic 2, finally in colour :)
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A few more shots of the painted guards. For a pair of guards that were truely f***## in order to fit large wide wheels by the previous owner, they now look amazing especially when you look at the before shots. Still not sure how i pulled that one off, but I'm happy with them ! Look forward to fitting them and taking some better photos with the car sitting on a proper set of wheels. No reason it cant happen as all the nuts, bolts, washers and bushes are there ready to go. Bushes is something I dont need to worry about as the previous owner of the car refreshed them all.
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Final shot for now, boot hinges have been painted.... It'll be fun working out how the springs go back together, something that was originally not fitted as one of the hooks in the boot was broken when I bought the car which is now repaired.
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So where too from here ? Well the bonnet is pretty much ready for colour which just leaves the nosecone. The nose should be in a sealer shortly. Im just finishing off any remaining minor repairs before doing so. Im also working on putting small stuff together like horns and organising parts to go back together in the near future.


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 Post subject: Re: 1973 Mazda Rx3
PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2011 1:28 am 
JNC Enthusiast

Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:09 pm
Posts: 614
Location: Australia
Here's a couple more photos.... Painting is pretty much finished. I'll wet rub with 2000 then go over it with 3000 pad on a DA then polish, hopefully it'll turn out like the roof. The wet rub is basically to denib the paint and correct any minor flaws. The 3000 just makes polishing that little bit easier. I'm no polishing guru, I need to take things nice and slow so I don't screw up the paint which is very easy to do. The paint will be left for a month or two before waxing, but I'm sometime off that.

The front panels still need to be aligned and bolted down which isnt far away. Before the nosecone goes on I have a few small paint jobs to do like the head light brackets/ buckets, bonnet stay, battery tray etc etc. Interior still needs a good clean and possibly a coat of primer although its in reasonable condtion.
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The diff housing and rear end parts need a repaint, new bearing and a few other goodies. Thats on my short list to have the car sitting back on it's wheels.


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 Post subject: Re: 1973 Mazda Rx3
PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2011 7:56 pm 

Joined: Wed Jul 07, 2010 9:21 pm
Posts: 53
Location: Richland, WA
Gypsy,
What vendor did you use to secure weather stripping, door seals, trunk seal etc....... I am needing to replace these same items in the windows, around the doors, the trunk etc...., and I am located in the states. I have reviewed Scotts Older Auto Rubber, but am curious who you would recommend for a 1973 Mazda RX2, left hand driver.


Thanks!


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 Post subject: Re: 1973 Mazda Rx3
PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 1:22 am 
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Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:09 pm
Posts: 614
Location: Australia
I dont have a full weatherstrip kit yet. I have an identical new inner front weather strip and genuine Mazda outer weatherstrip (rx2 has neither of these). The Rx3 coupe shares the same weatherstrip thats found between the door trim and door glass and the door glass and door chrome strip found on the Rx2. These inner and outer (identical) strips typically perish. The Rx3 only use this on the inner strip mounted to the rear interior panel.

You could try rarespares.net.au , whether its identical I couldnt tell you. I would only consider identical stuff on my car (or close too). Maybe some pf the Rx2 owners could point you in the right direction. If you have no luck with the weatherstrip as mentioned above PM me late January and I'll see if I can get you the right stuff. For the more common stuff for the boot, door channels, door frame etc best ask a Rx2 guy on here for quality.


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 Post subject: Re: 1973 Mazda Rx3
PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2011 1:48 pm 

Joined: Sun Apr 04, 2010 3:13 am
Posts: 35
Location: Quakers Hill, NSW, Australia
Guys

Just noticed our after rubbers etc

Take a look @ this place

http://www.scottsoldautorubber.com.au/M ... pe-RX3.htm

Hope its of some help
Im not affiliated, just looking @ getting stuff for my EP71 from them

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 Post subject: Re: 1973 Mazda Rx3
PostPosted: Fri Nov 25, 2011 2:58 am 

Joined: Mon Aug 23, 2010 6:55 am
Posts: 56
Location: perth western australia
Hi I got a full rubber kit for my Rx2 from Phils Rotarys on Ebay. :tu: :)


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 Post subject: Re: 1973 Mazda Rx3
PostPosted: Fri Nov 25, 2011 3:58 am 

Joined: Fri Nov 04, 2011 9:28 pm
Posts: 66
Location: Avalon, NSW
John have you tried spectrum I got most of mine for the familia from there.


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 Post subject: Re: 1973 Mazda Rx3
PostPosted: Fri Nov 25, 2011 9:19 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 22, 2011 7:10 pm
Posts: 72
Location: So-Cal
Hi Apple Guy,

I got a full kit from Rare-Spares, the only thing is that it didn't include the rear quarter window rubbers, which I ended up getting from Scott's old rubber. Prices have gone up some though, I purchased mine over six years ago.

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 Post subject: Re: 1973 Mazda Rx3
PostPosted: Sat Nov 26, 2011 8:14 am 
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Joined: Sun May 22, 2011 7:10 pm
Posts: 72
Location: So-Cal
Scott's has the Coupe ones, not sure about the Sedan. I'll dig up the part number.

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 Post subject: Re: 1973 Mazda Rx3
PostPosted: Mon Dec 05, 2011 3:41 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:09 pm
Posts: 614
Location: Australia
Here are some more photos, the years of neglect have turned into years of assembly... I couldn't tell you how many more years to go, I've been pre occupied with other things. Work is incredibly busy, I'm probably one of the few lucky ones that say, recession what recession.... never been so busy continuously. Aiming for next year completion.

Been buffing away... for an average bonnet it turned out good, boot lid will be good but needs a little more compounding. There are still some marks that can be seen in certain light conditions. Im thinking of switching to a wool pad over foam, wool is more aggressive but runs cooler which should help. Worst part about painting is you become anal about everything, you notice everything that any normal person would never see. If someone else had painted it I'm 100% sure none of the defects would bother me !
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Painted rear wheel arches, Mazbitz bumper fitted where it was suppose to fit no problems. Or should that be I measured everything up pretty good before welding the repairs ? Either way, it's things like this that can be disastrous at the finish line if care wasnt taken.
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Other side, no twisting of bar was necessary. The only thing I need to do is bend the bar end tabs out a little once I buy some rubber to fit between the bar and body. Pic 2, another bonnet shot, I wash the bonnet down with soap and water while compounding to get a true condition of progress. Buffing compound has a habit of filling in scratches to make things look better than what they actually are, as does machine polish and wax. The bonnet has been washed, it's pretty good, I may give the car a once over once all together with a swirl remover and wax. I'm using a 2 stage polishing product, you cut/ polish then use swirl remover. I have some machine polish as well which I'll use as an intermediate step where required. Body has turned out very nice for a back yard job.
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General photo and fitting up boot lid.
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Cleaned up Rx3 gearbox mounts, also have a genuine Rx3 crossmember. I was under the car long ago measuring things up. I think there may be just enough room to relocate the tunnel mounts further back and use an unmodified X member as well. It's a tight fit but should be do-able. Waiting on a mate to come past so we can fix the tunnel profile for where they need to go. One of us will swing the hammer the other guy hold a dolly on the underside. Thanks to both Marty and Rohan for the parts. Second shot, decided to paint the boot. What a pain the ass that is. Despite best efforts to clean all the dust out and using a tack cloth several times there is dust here are there. A couple of hours were spent cleaning, just when you think you get it all, more comes out when an air tool is used, the joys of blasting. Now I could cut it to perfection but I think I'd rather jump out a window. It looks nice for something that will never be seen and is much better than blacking it out or tarring it.
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More boot shots... Sometimes you need to take a look at how it was before you started a section like this to appreciate what it is now. I recall it being a sticky mess of tar that concealed rust here and there.
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Finishing off buffing the roof edges, I mask up lines right at the edge to prevent "burn through", and to prevent creating a paint step from buffing over tape. It also helps prevent cutting up the 3" buffing pad. Out of the pads I used Farcela would have to be one of my preferred ones. I've tried 3M ones and a cheap Contour compound pad which isnt too bad to be honest. Pic 2, fitting the little rubber stoppers to the boot hinges. The original ones were fine.
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Pic 1, I dreaded fitting the boot springs, was an easy job after all that dread ! This was one of things I had to repair as the spring hook brackets were broken off which meant boot springs couldn't be fitted. Now I have a boot that springs open :) You can see some of my paint tools, 3" buffer fitted with Farcela compound pad, CCS 7" machine polish pad fitted to DA Polisher, there is also a 7" rotary polisher with waffle compound pad that you cant see. Last but not least a bucket of soapy water and wash cloth for checking progress. Pads need to be 100% clean otherwise its disaster :wink: Pic 2, boot lid fitted, masked up surrounding area to prevent scuff marks from buffing.
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Can you believe it, the car is going together, boot floor plugs cleaned and fitted, boot lid adjusted and fitted.... Fuel lines and rubber plug and be too far away. Engine and box is already fitted. Pic 2, Left quarter cleaned up, looks nice out there in natural light.
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Left quarter cleaned up, probably just needs a wax to be honest. Pic 2, boot springs open on its own...
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I should try and finish off the nosecone and be done with it (painting side)...Overall I think its going too turn out too be a nice Sunday cruiser. If I were too buy another 3 I think I'd just buy a runner and clean it up, restoration and painting in general is hard work. Painting and body repairs are more work than what 95% of people realise.


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 Post subject: Re: 1973 Mazda Rx3
PostPosted: Wed Dec 07, 2011 1:22 am 

Joined: Tue Sep 27, 2011 4:15 am
Posts: 338
Location: Adelaide
:tu: Oh sick, Keep up the good work. You've painted prepped and everything, that parcel shelf almost looks out of place un-touched. The few lines from the Australian comedy 12th man comes to mind when I look at that shiny paint, is it the off white, the cream or the beige... :lol: get me Gypsy? Sorry for those who dont know what I mean.


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 Post subject: Re: 1973 Mazda Rx3
PostPosted: Thu Dec 08, 2011 1:39 am 
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Joined: Sat Oct 31, 2009 11:53 pm
Posts: 413
Location: Adelaide
Looks MINT. Great progress Gypsy!! 8)


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 Post subject: Re: 1973 Mazda Rx3
PostPosted: Thu Dec 08, 2011 5:45 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:09 pm
Posts: 614
Location: Australia
Thanks... it is starting to look like a car again after all these years. I've still got the nosecone to finish off the paint work. I was speaking to someone only the other day saying that if I were to do another car that I'd either buy one already done or buy a clean runner and tidy it up. There are some decent cars available from either the USA or Japan for reasonable money compared to local values although I doubt many cars achieve locally advertised prices. My actions are also contradictory, on one hand I say never again but find myself collecting parts for another.... go figure !

As much as I love my cars its probably time to move on after this one and do something else with my spare time (non car related). Sometime next year this car should be hitting the streets for the first time in 20years.


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 Post subject: Re: 1973 Mazda Rx3
PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2011 1:28 am 
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Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:09 pm
Posts: 614
Location: Australia
Almost finished with the tunnel, next prime the cabin, finish any remaining buffer work and then the interior can go back where it belongs.

Need to repair the tunnel area, this side isnt too bad, the other side is going to need work. Pic 2 my modded Rx3 crossmember which will be adapted to fit my car. The welded wings will be removed.
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Creating an earth point for the MIG.
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Left side repaired, old grinder cut marks removed. Pic 2 template created for weld points. Mount flange profile needs to be changed to fit new location. Space is limited under the car. You don't want things too tight otherwise you'll never be able to remove the gearbox for a clutch change.
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21
Transfered template image onto tunnel so I know where too weld. Pic 2 mount is cleaned.
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Mount Zinc coated so it can be welded. Pic 2 opposite side tunnel repaired and template transfered. Left and right mounts are different in shape.
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Not happy with this side, tunnel has been bashed and its impossible to get the tunnel profile to match that of the mount. Spent a whole day trying before I finally conceded that this was not the way too do it. Pic 2, trying to find some suitable gauge steel to repair this tunnel. 808 mount next to the Rx3 one. It would be alot easier had I used the 808 ones, they are slim giving lots of clearance.
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Shaping the new floor section and test fitting profile. Mount flange has been altered to fit new location.
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Tunnel measured and cut. Pic 2, the hole is then traced on too the new section for further trimming. There is approx a 2mm overlap which I hope to fuse together.
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Parts cleaned up for fitting.
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Parts are zinced and plug welded.
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Welds are cleaned up before fitting section.
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Opposite side zinced, then tacked into place.
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I run 1 inch beads winding up the MIG amps for good weld penetration. Downside is you'll blow holes if your not careful, no holes for me :) Pic 2, welding is cleaned with a grinder and wire wheel before priming. I'll clean up the rest of the floor and seam seal as well from both sides of the tunnel to stop any moisture coming in contact with metal. I'll prime and stone guard the area as well. Opposite side is more straight forward, just need to plug weld the mount to the tunnel, no need to cut out the section like this side.
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Almost done with the body work.....


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 Post subject: Re: 1973 Mazda Rx3
PostPosted: Wed Dec 14, 2011 1:45 am 
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Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:09 pm
Posts: 614
Location: Australia
Maybe the last update for a while....

With the gearbox mounts sorted out I decided to clean up the cabin. I havent decided 100% but Im thinking of giving it a coat of primer. I'll seam seal the joins first and decide from there. While cleaning things up I noticed more welding repairs were needed #-o Handbrake area had fatigue cracks from yanking up the park brake. Better to fix it now than later on when it causes me grief. The spots welded had snapped long ago. Im asuming this is a common problem area on old Mazdas. You can clearly see the cracks in Pic 2.
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Photos show me tracing the edge to transfer onto some clean metal.
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New piece welded in..... Welds cleaned up and primed. Underside will be cleaned up as well. All that's needed is to drill an extra hole. I wont bother spot welding the underside back. I'll replace the snapped brackets (also fatigued). The whole thing (including underside) just bolts together with the body wedged inbetween.
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Another problem area, the fuel flaps have a tendancy to rust from the inside out. The only ones I have every seen without rust are the late model ones without the fuel lid holder. I started this repair about 3 years ago and has been sitting in exposured metal all that time ! I have another with no holes but as soon as the blaster hits it, parts will turn too swiss cheese. The black stuff in pic 2 is not rust it's the adhesive that Mazda used to bond the 2 sides together.
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The outer panel was pretty solid aside from the small hole. Pitting was minimal, the blaster took care of the rust pits when it was cleaned years ago. Took 10seconds to plug the hole and run a flap disk over it. Pic 2, the inner skin was clean as well, both parts will be cleaned up, epoxied and bonded together with Sikaflex or panel adhesive. The other flap without visible rust is worse, you can see the rust between the two panels which is why the other was used. It's a pretty simple panel to make if you cant find a repairable one.
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I've been procrastinating with the nosecone, its finally in polyestor and the inside has been epoxy primed. A few hours left to finish it off, fitting it up, aligning, blocking the Polyestor then the HiFill. If I run out of time I may have Tricky spray the colour coat. It's up too me to get to the paint stage though. I used a paint brush to get the epoxy in all the hard to reach places that the blaster cleaned up.
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For whatever reason over time I picked up cheap Watanabe's, the remaining wheel is on its way. They cost between $30 - $50 a piece. Most of the cost is in fees and shipping. If I didnt want to run the steel factory wheels as well I'd change my stud pattern to 114.3 to match the wheels. I'm having these redrilled at $40 a pop, I'll blast them myself in my mates cabinet and paint them at home. Overall cost will be between 6 - 700. No gutter rash or damage which is always a bonus. Wheels will start another chain of events, get the car to sit how I like, new shocks, new front springs, and probably will need to shorten the front shocks so the springs stay put when the front is jacked up. I've thought about adjustable coilovers and better brakes but I really don't want to go down that path. Decent brakes wont fit under the standard wheels, and there's no way Im going to fit Holden Commodore parts to my 3 ! Wheels are 14" 6.5 (front) and 7" (rear) A type Wat's all round. I'm thinking about painting them the same colour as the stockers.... undecided, may also do them a matt black. I'll worry about it when the car is road going.
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Well you probably havent realised but this update FINALLY concludes all rust repairs and all welding work which is a big relief let me tell you ! From here I'll be waxing or fish oiling the cavities and rust repairs. It's unlikely it will every rust in my lifetime simply because the car will never see rain or the hose. The body work has been one eye opener and first hand old car learning experience. These cars love to rust (coupes are far worse than sedans), typically from the inside out. I've said it before, just because you can't see the rust just means you're not looking hard enough ! My advise for people who are thinking about having their cars restored, unless you are prepared to go all out don't mess too much with the body, it will only get you in a financial mess.


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 Post subject: Re: 1973 Mazda Rx3
PostPosted: Wed Dec 14, 2011 9:44 am 
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Joined: Tue Aug 02, 2011 7:30 am
Posts: 47
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
This has been a great project to follow. I can't wait to see the finished car.

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 Post subject: Re: 1973 Mazda Rx3
PostPosted: Wed Dec 14, 2011 12:54 pm 
JNC Enthusiast

Joined: Fri Feb 15, 2008 11:16 pm
Posts: 813
Location: Saratoga N.Y.
:tu: How do you get Watanabes for $50 :shock:

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