You people can thank my other half for her insistance the post remain. I'll try and sort out the issue over the coming weeks....... lets leave it at that please.
When AR comes back I'll try and fix that up as well. I've never seen so many disappointed people over a clapped out Mazda post...
Screwing the patch to the panel so I can accurately cut between both panel edges. Pic 2, tacked into place. Turned out pretty good, a little tweaking required but thats all. I found the dog leg trim in the 25th box I opened (not pictured). Everything will be trial fitted before the area is welded to the car. You can see lots of highs and lows that need attention.
Pic 1, thats what it looks like fitted to the car prior to final tweaking, good fit so far. Pic 2, the car is starting (barely) to resemble a car again. Filler work on A pillar done, just needs sanding. The scuttle panel is now shorter up the A pillar on both sides than how Mazda made the panel in that area so filler was required to smooth the 2 joining areas over the weld. I was originally going to lead wipe the area but whats the bloody difference between modern high quality filler and lead filler. They are both filler no matter how you try and justify that lead is better ! Using lead on a flat panel should be OK because you can effectively clean the area from the chloride in the tinning paste. This however is a join and could be difficult removing all the chloride from the join which may result in more rust and paint problems. Like I said filler is filler !
I really wanted to finish the beaver off more than anything so I can put the car on the rotisserie for some under body clean up. Beaver panel unpicked, and the damaged licence plate holder is coming off for either repair or replacement with one I made. Pic 1, I highly recommend avoiding strip disks when cleaning up panels, they polish the metal and introduce lots of highs and lows which most people wont recognise at the time. This panel is wavy so I didn't particularly care and I need to go over the entire panel as its pretty bad. Pic 2, under all that dirt you can see the factory coloured primer. I'd rather fix a shit panel than waste my time with shit people
Some pics of the damaged plate holder and beaver. Should be easy to fix off the car.
Plate holder off and you can see the replacement if the original is beyond repair. Pic 2, you can see the arrow straight beaver.
Well lets get side tracked, this stuff was suppose to be dropped off to my mechanic but I suspect he was racing at the Bathurst 1000. Thanks to Billy for the 10a dowels and my first ever ride in a r100, he put a big smile on my face and had me reaching for the dashboard knowing that if he stacked it there wouldnt be much holding his little r100 together, probably less than an Rx3 if thats possible. These cars are crumble zones from front to back. If mine goes half as good I'll be happy ! So whats going into my engine, nothing special really. The special bits being single side seal rotors, an auto factory matched eccentric shaft with weights, 2 piece apex seals (NLA), ultra rare matching apex springs (NLA), and matching assist pieces (Mazda NLA) organised by Mo. Im told I should be able to use these bits in my motor. In pic 2 you can see one of the new corner seals. Apparently all twin dizzy motors should run at least 1st over size corner seals even if your using NOS rotors. The're one of many tricks with these old motors for good compression and easy start up. I have some other cool stuff to use but that means nothing without photos.
Another pic of the engine bits that need clean up from old dried grease to help protect them. Pic 2, a photo of a factory Mazda (race style I suspect ?) LSD that I imported from Japan several years ago now. Cost was $250 ! If it isnt period or available from Mazda I dont want it.
Fixing the beaver panel, taking some rough measurements in pic 1. I dont like cars where the beaver and quarter lines are welded together, that looks dodge to me and makes me suspicious of a poor repair underneath. Pic 2, I'll probably run some seam welds to hold the 2 inner panels together before fitting the beaver to the car. You can see some highs and lows where I ran the body file over the lower beaver panel area in pic 2.
I cut the beaver further to make the welding easier. A straight edge...
I used tin snips to cut the replacement area. Tin snips give a nice cut but make the panel way in that area which is why both ends of the weld are straightened over a dolly. Pic 2 clamped into place for welding.
I love oxy welding panels, MIG welding doesnt come close for panel repairs. The only other welding means that is comparable for panel repairs is TIG which still produces a mailable, workable weld but more slightly harder than what is produced with an oxy. These welds are pretty flat and have been hammered over a dolly to keep everything from distorting. If this were being repaired on the car you'd definitely use a MIG. I wouldnt expect a pro to normally use an Oxy for panel repairs unless you want to triple your build cost. The aim is to try and get the join invisible using a hammer and dolly.. lots of noise.
Bottom edge will be shaped and then trimmed appropriately. I spent a little time tapping the beaver straight, still lots to do but alot better in a short time.
Repeating for the other side....
Welded and hammered over a dolly, nice result. I stuffed up the bend however that will corrected using a piece of hardwood wedged in that section and then tapped straight.
Pic 1, a shot of the opposite side of the weld. Pic 2, beaver not finished but looking a hell of a lot straighter. Yes the ends will be trimmed when the time is right.
In pic 1 I blew a couple of holes just before the step area, no biggy as these will be tapped down and filed. Ive spent a little more time on the RH side as opposed to the LH side. Again the step in pic 1 will be straightened before fitting.
One of the licence plate screws was bent and snapped. No matter what I did it wasnt budging, rusted solid around the threads. I even tried screwing 2 nuts and tightening them together trick but that just stripped the thread. The answer finally hit me, I welded a nut to the snapped bolt using the MIG.
.... and that got me the result I wanted !