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What engine should go in my Rx3 sedan ?
Single distributor 12a Rx3 engine 27%  27%  [ 7 ]
Twin distributor 12a PP engine 35%  35%  [ 9 ]
1600 808 4 cylinder 4%  4%  [ 1 ]
Leave it with the stock 10a drive line 27%  27%  [ 7 ]
Give my 12a housings to Dave and move on to the next big thing the Toyota Lexcen 8%  8%  [ 2 ]
Total votes : 26
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 1:22 am 
JNC Enthusiast

Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:09 pm
Posts: 614
Location: Australia
Yep never again Benn.... having said that I have see some decent repros but they are from years ago and NLA.

I dropped by a place a few weeks ago and the owner was kind enough to let us look through everything in case he missed it. My mate picked up some perfect repro bonnets for his Mark 1 Ford Escort that fit like OEM but no Rx3 stuff :(

I'm picking up my sedan sill from storage this week to get stuck into the left sill repair. I want the car ready for paint come spring time if possible. You never know if mine and yours are both ready I'll meet you at the state border :)


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 3:47 am 
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Joined: Thu Jan 15, 2009 5:43 am
Posts: 200
Location: Queensland Australia
By Looking at your pics you've placed some of you parts on boxes which say "new old car company" . The guy that actually gets them made is in Brissy and I must say if you have purchased parts from him your butt must be very sore! lol Thats not the first time we've seen his efforts up here. You should see the fibreglass repos of rx3 nose cones nearly as good as your front panels. :wink:

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 02, 2010 6:49 am 
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Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:09 pm
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Location: Australia
I've only bought one part from that "new old car company" and it was a front left guard more out of curiosity than anything. It is the first and last part I buy from that place........ they sell nothing but repro junk, yes I've seen some of their other stuff, an absolute joke. I bought the panel from one of the dealers in Melbourne who told me he fitted it to his brothers Rx3 and looked good :roll: The dealer is also a panel shop :roll: Anything to do with that place is nothing but trouble.. they're all crooks as far as Im concerned selling rubbish to people who dont know what's good or bad. The panels do look good though which is what sucked me in.. a pity they dont fit a Mazda :roll: They are having rear quarter panels and nosecones made as well which I wont bother with after this effort. I'd rather spend 1000 hours and fix the spare panels I have, at least I know they will fit.

The panels are made by Dynacorn, according to some of the American Classic car sites I browse they dont think much of the Dynacorn quality either..... The dealer only had 2 guards and I bet he couldnt get rid of them fast enough if he really tried to fit them to a car. No panel shop can be that stupid.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 04, 2010 4:50 am 
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Joined: Fri Nov 27, 2009 4:32 am
Posts: 207
Location: Malaysia
Some of the repo parts are just okay. Some of it just rubbish. I bought one set rubber seal for my SA22C from that company. Can’t complain so much. 2 set of rubber seal for a price of 1. Buy one free one.
Rubber quality is okay from my old rubber seal. Guess for now is okay for you to. Better then the old set. Good luck on your restoration. I know it would look fantastic.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jun 06, 2010 2:52 am 
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Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:09 pm
Posts: 614
Location: Australia
Affa... I refuse to deal with that company full stop after being blatantly lied too. There are several other local companys in Victoria and NSW who sell rubber kits where I will source the bits that I cant get.

Minor update, I didnt want too but Ive decided to replace the left sill panel. I wasnt happy having to patch the front and the back section leaving the centre untouched. I hate patching the patch. Its for the better but and will take a few weeks where time allows. This will allow me to thoroughly clean up the inner sills, blast them clean including under the rear quarter panel and recoat with a modern water proof primer. Only the left side is affected. The right sill is quite good as well as where it runs under the rear quarter panel.

Pic 1, Ive been unable to find a rust free coupe sill so I sourced a good sedan sill. It will need a little modification but should be pretty simple. Pic 2, I've unpicked all the spot welds leaving the section I want. I saved the front corner as they come in handy for replacing rusted corner door pillars which is very common in Mazda's of this age.
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The outside of the sill panel, you can see where Mazda spot welded the centre pillar for the rear doors. I'm hoping to work the little indentations flat where the centre pillar once was... should be very simple. Pic 2, The sill before I attacked it with the grinder and drill. Its a pity I spent time repairing the front section (which you can see)... not all is lost, it was good practice for the opposite side which turned out excellent.
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Pic 1, chopping out the sill... You'll notice I left the top section as I want to take measurements between the sill top and the bottom of the door so I can align the replacement properly. You can see that the inner panel is very good, there was lots of dirt and mud in here. Pic 2, the outer skin that has been chopped... its really not too bad but my decision was justified as the sill area just where it goes behind the quarter is quite scaly. You could have treated it and left it, but what's a little more effort when you consider everything I'll done to date. With the exception of the rear of the sill what you see is mostly dirt.
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Close up shot.... the biggest job in the replacement to to carefully remove the old for the new. Same goes for the replacement I will use.
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I hope to have the sill replacement modified for the coupe and the inner sill panel blasted and primed next weekend. The weekend after if Im not working will be spent fitting it up. When done this will allow me to repair the remaining section of the LHS quarter panel which will need some fabrication. From there I want to dummy fit the 10a and 5 speed for something different, then finish up the RHS quarter then onto the beaver. From there it'll be up on the rotisserie... the moral of this update is if you dont want to fix rust dont go looking for it... if you look you will find :lol:


Last edited by gypsy on Sun Jul 25, 2010 4:20 am, edited 2 times in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 19, 2010 6:15 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 08, 2009 9:26 pm
Posts: 794
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Any updates?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jun 20, 2010 2:09 am 
JNC Enthusiast

Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:09 pm
Posts: 614
Location: Australia
Sorry no update until I finish the current section which is reasonably involved. The only update I really have is that I'm at mascot airport with every single oem part stashed in my luggage to rebuild front struts and brakes, most of it ex Japan. Need to strip and paint struts before new parts are installed. Next update is about a month away unfortunately.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 24, 2010 10:19 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 27, 2007 4:05 am
Posts: 234
Location: Queensland Australia
Looking forward to next update :D :tu:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 24, 2010 11:53 pm 

Joined: Sat Nov 15, 2008 3:39 pm
Posts: 70
Location: Sydney Australia
gypsy wrote:
Sorry no update until I finish the current section which is reasonably involved. The only update I really have is that I'm at mascot airport with every single oem part stashed in my luggage to rebuild front struts and brakes, most of it ex Japan. Need to strip and paint struts before new parts are installed. Next update is about a month away unfortunately.


nice haul of loot by the sounds of it.
your work is outstanding.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 29, 2010 7:59 am 

Joined: Tue Jun 29, 2010 7:54 am
Posts: 3
Location: NY
Looks fantastic.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 29, 2010 3:21 pm 
JNC Enthusiast

Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:09 pm
Posts: 614
Location: Australia
Cash for clunkers is what comes to mind at the moment with my epic battle with this build. I think Im now really on top of the worst of it but have been wrong before. Cash for clunkers (not available in Oz) would be a way to be relieved of the pain and get my sanity back.... imagine all the spare time I'd win back ! Sounds like a win win to me. The hardest part of a restoring an old mazda is lack of any quality aftermarket (or genuine) panels. I wont even contemplate dealing with the QLD twit for his repro junk. Imagine taking off a rusty part and not having to compromise on quality because Mazda still sold new panels. It would save hundreds of hours in having to repair old parts. Well I suppose that is what the restoration game is all about. If I ever go through this again with a 12a model, I'd definitely use a different approach.... probably buy one already done :lol:

Minor update to save me uploading 200 photos in one update....

Cut the quarter panel to get better access to repair the sill panel. Pic 2, wire wheeled the sill edge to clearly reveal the remaining spot welds that will be drilled out.
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Unpicked the remainder of the sill panel. Pretty good shape, I found some minor surface rust towards the back of the inner sill, but pretty good overall. Pic 2, dummy fitting the replacement that will be modified.
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Making my own sill panel, I had no luck finding a genuine Mazda sill. All the used ones I saw were rusty as well..... rust buckets ! The old bit I saved was blasted, will need to be rust treated again from constantly handling it.
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More fabricating... turning a sedan sill to into a coupe sill.
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I ran out of ideas on how to fix this all up. If I couldnt find NOS Mazda parts I'd like to know how others fix their coupes as this is a common problem area.
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Getting there, lots of hours going into this....
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Blasting the inner sill and priming.
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Primed the sill panel and blasted the front corner that fits over the sill.
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Welding up a couple of minor holes with the oxy. Pic 2 dummy fitting part and sill panel.
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Some cleanup and sealing some repairs (not all mine !) to prevent moisture causing trouble in the future.
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Sealing the welding with brushable sealer on the sill panel. Pic 2 fitting door to check sill -> door gap. I scribbled measurements on the door before I removed the old sill.
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Pic 1, checking gaps before any welding takes place. Pic 2, trail fitting scuff panel to make sure everything fits right. I got a good pair of scuff panels from Japan, was very lucky as they are both look close to new.
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Pic 1, getting ready to weld corner section. Pic 2, removed primer where plug welds will go through sill panel. Corner welded on, still need to plug weld around corner which will be done when sill panel is attached.
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Dummy fitting sill again getting ready for attaching sill panel..... lots of plugs required here.
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Im reasonably happy with the repair, I (hopefully) wont be doing this ever again. I really wanted a new sill panel which never eventuated.... restoration is sometimes about compromise when new parts arent available. A lot of effort and time has gone into the sill otherwise I'd still be looking at it in 5 years time. Hmmm, this car belongs in the rusty relics junk section :lol:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 7:59 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 08, 2009 9:26 pm
Posts: 794
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Fantastic.
I've said it before, but this thread really should be a sticky on the front page.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 10:42 pm 
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Location: LA
You know that you'll have basically built an RX-3 from scratch when you're done, right? :)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 3:40 am 
JNC Enthusiast

Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:09 pm
Posts: 614
Location: Australia
Quote:
I've said it before, but this thread really should be a sticky on the front page.
we want to encourage old car restoration not scare people away..... do u think I would of done this if I honestly knew what was involved! It's better to keep it where it is :lol:

Quote:
You know that you'll have basically built an RX-3 from scratch when you're done, right?
....... yep and loving it 8)


Minor update, sill almost finished.

Refitted door for again just before I started plug welding to ensure sill is installed straight. Pic 2, no turning back now, welding has begun.
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Lots of plug welds top and bottom of sill panel, its not going anywhere. The MIG was on its last legs and couldnt finish the job off that day. SIP Migmate 150 is a piece of Sh!t !! One day it welds beautifully, the next day without touching any settings it plays up. I had enough of it and should have replaced it long ago. I replaced the unit with a reputable American brand, and cant believe the difference. Its like comparing a Bugatti Veyron to a Fiat Bambino 500.... there is just no comparison, I just love the new unit. For people looking at MIGs stick to the reputable big names like Kempi, Lincoln, Miller etc. From the word go I noticed a better cleaner arc, and the gun is miles ahead of the old unit. For people with a keen eye you'll notice that Im placing my plugs inbetween the factory welds. I achieved this by unpicking the sill from the inside to try and keep it looking factory.... well thats the theory.
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More clamping welding....
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Inside view and dressing the welds.
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Doesnt take too long to dress the welds..... still need to do dress the underside.
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Next step will be to clean the sill end cap and weld into place. Once that's complete I'll clean up the sill, left A Pillar and door jam and spray a sealer coat to water proof the areas. Once the patch in pic 2 goes on I really cant spray inside the quarter very well. Pic 2, this is the patch that I'll be using to finish off the quarter panel. Unfortunately they all rust at the bottom so you're going to see some fabrication work when Im ready.
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I counted 10 layers before I hit the factory white paint. I'm going to fabricate the lower section and the wheel arch curve/ flange as its bogged up and pitted. This will all be done off the car prior to fitting.
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The bottom of the sill should be dressed up and finished tomorrow, I'll need to make a start on the sill end cap and just for something different I've also started cleaning up the insides of the door shells. They are pretty good but there is some minor surface rust that needs to be cleaned up before I prime then. I dont wont the rust converter affecting the primer and then possibly the paint work so needs to be done before priming is done. Its a crap job but unfortunately I have no apprentice to off load this particular task too :lol:




Another small update.... I've got my blinkers on, and can see the goal line in regards to the shell. It's only taken 4 years ! I thought I'd work on something different and finish off the right side of the shell while Im waiting on a couple of things to complete the left side.

Some trimming and clean up of the inner panel, this has been previously repaired when one of the previous owners made a lower patch skin. A little bit of repair work going on. Ive lost count on the amount of rusty metal that Ive removed.
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I need to work on the outer skin while repairing the inner panels simultaneously to ensure all fits. Pic 1, repairing a scrape. Pic 2, I beat out the dent over a bag of rags using a concave hammer on the inside.
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Smoothed out the crease over a post dolly, there is a small section that will need to be done once the panel is fitted to the car. Apart from that its 90% gone aside from a minor section just below where the reflector mounts towards the very rear. Pic 2, welding on some replacement metal where the skin will partially mount over. I cut off the old metal because it was rusty metal welded to the replacement patch.
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Early stages of the repair.... unfortunately I forgot to take a pic of the finished repair !
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Dummy fitting the skin so I can adjust the inards accordingly
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Repairing and reshaping part of the inner wheel arch. The bottom part was rusty which has now been fixed. The previous repairer just welded right over the top of the bad bits when they replaced the lower skin. If I took this approach I would have been finished years ago. Pic 2, screwing the arch so I can adjust it to the sedan skin, there are very minor differences between coupe and sedan skins that 99% of people wouldnt notice. Fixing little bits and pieces even though you'll never see them consumes lots of extra hours. When Im using offcuts I notice that its quite common to not remove the rusty metal. Ive seen this time and time again. When someone says its all been metal plated up, that means nothing to me after what Ive seen. Photos of a repair mean everything.
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Repairing and adjusting the wheel arch before it all goes back together.
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Pic 1, the repaired arch, lower section is partially new. Pic 2, getting ready to tack into place for minor adjustments, very fiddly work. I could have left it but thought better of it.
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Trimming the skin, I think the neighbours hated me while I was carefully trimming the skin..... about 30minutes worth of noise that couldnt be helped.
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Getting there, inner skin almost done. Will sandblast and prime tomorrow prior to finishing off the inner section as wheel arch over laps with the inner quarter panel. Bare metal in between the joints = future rust. Pic 2, readjusting and taking again. Hopefully I get the position right this time.
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Panel clamps used to hold skin in place while I check alignment of inner wheel arch....
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More to follow, sandblasting and priming tomorrow. If there is time the skin will hopefully be welding into place. Ahh Im really tired, been rolling around on the floor most of the day.


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 Post subject: 1973 Mazda Rx3
PostPosted: Tue Aug 31, 2010 3:40 pm 

Joined: Tue Aug 31, 2010 3:29 pm
Posts: 3
Location: adelaide
:D Hi gypsy, ive been looking into how to's for awhile for my restoration when i found your posts, what a goldmine of tips and tricks, thanks alot, took quite awhile to go through all 12 pages taking notes lol.
Just wondering what sand blaster you use, also do you use a air fed full face mask for all your painting? Do you have issues with neighbours\pets with your 2k painting?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 31, 2010 6:48 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 27, 2007 4:05 am
Posts: 234
Location: Queensland Australia
Your doing a great job Gypsy! Kudos to your determination and dedication. :tu:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 01, 2010 1:34 am 
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Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:09 pm
Posts: 614
Location: Australia
jedi wrote:
:D Hi gypsy, ive been looking into how to's for awhile for my restoration when i found your posts, what a goldmine of tips and tricks, thanks alot, took quite awhile to go through all 12 pages taking notes lol.
Just wondering what sand blaster you use, also do you use a air fed full face mask for all your painting? Do you have issues with neighbours\pets with your 2k painting?


Thanks, hopefully it's a lesson on what NOT to buy :lol: It's been a tough slog but I'll get there in the end. I've learnt a lot and I'll be changing my approach on the next project.

I have 2 sandblasters. One has a canister on the top of the sandblast gun which is suppose to retrieve most of the media. It sort of works but is more of a gimmick if you ask me. It looks exactly like this one http://cgi.ebay.com.au/SANDBLASTING-GUN ... ctive_Gear It cost me around $25.

The other type I have and normally use is like this, I fill a bucket of garnet and away I go http://cgi.ebay.com.au/SANDBLASTER-KIT- ... ccessories This one cost me around $20. The nozzles wear out after a while.

For smaller parts a friend has a large cabinet blaster which I use from time to time. To be honest with you, my advise is to send the car away and have it professionally blasted. It'll save you a big mess and lots of time. For blasting you'll need a quality large compressor 15 - 17cfm which is pretty much as large as you can go on a 10A 240V socket. You'll be working it pretty hard and it'll be sizzling after 15 minutes use, not to mention drive your neighbours nuts with the continuous noise. I doubt the el'cheapo compressors would 1. produce the claimed air and 2. last under the continuous abusive conditions of blasting. Blasting uses a heap of air. On top of that you'll need a pressure fed breathing mask to keep your lungs clear. The only reason I didnt send my car away for blasting is that it was practically in bare metal when purchased. I have a few more things to blast like the nosecone, beaver panel, struts, diff housing etc... all this stuff will be done by a professional blaster. Blasting at home from experience is handy for cleaning inner panels that you're repairing that are not normally visible without cutting.

Painting can be tricky, I only paint in sections ie a pair of guards or doors or engine bay... never a big job. Its always broken up into small jobs. Again you need a pressure fed mask to keep your lungs clean and lots and lots of light. If you live on a small block of land forget it you need lots of space around the garage. Im undecided whether Im going to paint the shell, I'd like to but I'll make that decision after I paint the boot, engine bay and door shells. Im looking at using a solid colour which is easy to paint but less forgiving than using a clear over base coat. Mazda used solid colour which is why I'd prefer that system. The enemy of painting is airborne dust and insects. Everything needs to be spotless..... and no I havent affected any animals, if there was that possibility I simply wouldnt do it. Last thing I want to do is draw attention to myself from anything or anyone.


madaz wrote:
Your doing a great job Gypsy! Kudos to your determination and dedication. :tu:


It should turn out to be a neat little Sunday cruiser madaz. It'll never be perfect in my eyes given the amount of work required to bring it back to life, but it'll give me lots of enjoyment and satisfaction when finished. I havent got much of an update that is worth showing.... here is a little run down since the last update.

- Close ratio TQX 5 speed has been reco'd for the 10a. Should keep the bridge port on song with less than 800rpm rev drop between gear changes when compared to a standard gearbox
- Both doors have been repaired and filled in spots ready for epoxy primer. Its amazing how a door you think is 99% straight is not so after using a guide coat and speed file and blocks !
- Right rear quarter patch is welded to car
- Started filler work inside the boot
- Beaver removed to straighten RHS boot floor
- Waiting on some beaver/ boot brackets to be sent.
- touching up some previous old repairs
- Bought 2 new rust free guards to replace the junk one from QLD. I feel like an idiot for thinking looking good means it's going to fit :roll: Oh well Im sure the sale of it is now causing someone else headaches at the moment.

Engine should be put together by the mechanic in the next couple of months + still need to source a few things for the stock engine when I finally decide I want the car 100% standard. I only wish Mazda produced new panels for us enthusiasts.


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 Post subject: what welder
PostPosted: Mon Sep 06, 2010 4:28 pm 

Joined: Tue Aug 31, 2010 3:29 pm
Posts: 3
Location: adelaide
One last question for you (Prob not), have you used a gasless mig welder or do you hire a bottle, there is a welder on ebay that i have been looking at called magnum mig200, its made by allmax which is chinese. Its going for around $760, is a inverter type, reads ok on the page.

I decided not to get a sandblaster as all forums say the same thing as what you did. What type of welder to use opens a big can of worms, i know gasless is not that great but i cant justify the bottle rental ea. year for the little use i will have.


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 Post subject: Re: what welder
PostPosted: Wed Sep 08, 2010 3:30 pm 
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Posts: 614
Location: Australia
jedi wrote:
One last question for you (Prob not), have you used a gasless mig welder or do you hire a bottle, there is a welder on ebay that i have been looking at called magnum mig200, its made by allmax which is chinese. Its going for around $760, is a inverter type, reads ok on the page.

I decided not to get a sandblaster as all forums say the same thing as what you did. What type of welder to use opens a big can of worms, i know gasless is not that great but i cant justify the bottle rental ea. year for the little use i will have.


Never used gasless but I'd imagine there would be weld splatter everywhere as well as porous welds, not what you want on your panel work. If there is flux in the wire that causes other problems, rust, paint failure etc.

760 is not cheap for a a cheap welder, I had a free 800 piece of junk (SIP) that worked ok but is rubbish compared to my new unit. Both can produce nice welds but the new one does it consistantly and much easier to use. The old one you'd have to play around with it even after not touching any settings. You can buy a high quality solid core name brand (transformer) MIG made in the USA with a quality gun thats upgradable, indefintate voltage control and quality non jamming wire feed (with 3 or 5 year warranty??) for 1000. Why would you bother with a piece of junk thats going to fall to bits with a poor duty cycle ?? That extra 240 will get you a unit that will last a lifetime not half a project ! You want to be looking at Miller, Licohln, Kempii, BOC, UniMig etc etc. My advise is to take a welding short course and walk into a welding shop and forget about ebay rubbish. Gas hire is not expensive, about 130 a year bottle hire + refills. If you dont want a bottle you can buy small disposable argon mix bottles for about 30 but works out alot more expensive if you do a lot of welding on your project. Also just about every gas MIG can be converted to gasless operation. Stick with the name brands and you cant go wrong.


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 Post subject: welder
PostPosted: Wed Sep 08, 2010 4:20 pm 

Joined: Tue Aug 31, 2010 3:29 pm
Posts: 3
Location: adelaide
I went into gasworld on tues and a guy talked about the lincoln 180 mig welder, was $1000 with a 3 year warranty, also he said the consumables are cheaper and more easily available. My cars engine bay sure is getting expensive lol.


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