Some more progress which means more photos for you people
The project is finally getting to the stage where Im starting to see some of the long hours invested paying off. Im very happy with how things are turning out. Things are starting to take shape with the shell at least..
Back where I left off last update, roof has been sprayed with polyester to catch the imperfections that I couldnt get out without performing some major intrusive surgery. I'm using the Sikkens range of products on the car through to the paint stage. The Polysurfacer was left for 2 weeks prior to blocking. Pic 2, this is at the bottom of the left door pillar/ sill panel corner cap. The inner panel has rotted, I had tried welding it up a couple of years ago and was going to leave it. After blasting the area clean to prep for repairing the outer sill panel, it became evident that it was too far gone. No amount of welding was going to fix this ! Pin holes everywhere, media blasting never fails. You can kid yourself with rust converter but media blasting reveals the true condition without fail.
Inner sill/ rocker patch made and welded in, still needs a little cleaning. You can see the area cut out was like bending paper.
After 2- 3 weeks I started to block the roof with a very large block. I had to shrink a couple of areas I missed and resprayed the area. One thing I will say is that even though you remove most of the polyester, it makes a very good guide coat when using a large block... there is no guessing if a panel is straight or not. Very easy to dry sand as well (polyester is porous). Pic 2, the inner sill has been primed and the outer panel tacked into place.
Outer panel welded, turned out OK... was hoping for a similar result to the opposite side... Im not complaining still pretty good. Still in the process of cleaning the area up, need some new flap disks to level off the remainer of the area. Pic 2, inside of the repaired area, nice and clean on the inside.. no birdshit welds here. Will clean up the smoke marks with thinner before attaching end piece. The area will also be sprayed with cavity wax. For you people with a keen eye, yes plug welds still need to be worked flat.
End cap being dummy fitted. Pic 2 a front guard that I was file finishing. I think I picked the wrong guard for this type of work. Very usable and straight now although Im getting a little lazy to finish it off !
They all rust here (well alot of them)... making a patch..
More patch work, currently welding it up... more pics when completed.
The earth harness screw was seized.. wouldnt budge. I ended up stripping the head, then recut the head and stripped it again. The damn thing was going to come out one way or another since Im the boss of this project
I first drilled a small hole and tried an ez out, I gave up on that idea because I thought the ez out was going to snap and then I'd be stuffed (try removing jammed harded steel from a bolt hole). I ended up drilling a larger hole and to my surprise the heat and vibration from the drill unscrewed it !
Cleaning up the thread with a tap set and then fitting a bolt with the same thread pattern as the original, result perfect
All this work is leading to preparing the engine bay for a coat of epoxy primer to water proof everything prior to winter setting in. The roof, sills and A pillars will be sealed in the next few weeks once I finish off all the repairs to these areas (very close).
Before I sprayed the epoxy I blasted all the rust converter from the front end weld seams. Pic 2, cleaned out the car and garage (took 1/2 a day) then shot a couple of coats of epoxy to water proof everything. The hardest part of spraying a small engine bay (this is no Mopar !) is being conscience of your fresh air line as well as the compressor line and also ensuring you dont knock the spray gun on the fresh coat !
I started to dream that this was the colour coat, its been many years since this car has been all one colour. Next it'll have a couple of small blemishes fixed and then sprayed in HiFill closer to the paint stage.
Another shot of blocking the roof which is 70% done. Pic 2, the engine bay wouldnt be complete without applying the seam sealer to the joints to keep the moisture out. I used 3M Dripcheck for this job.. the lines are neat because I masked the areas up prior to application and then removed the tape before the sealer started to set.
The current status of the shell which has been to hell and back, its looking alot healthier now. This is the bonnet I repaired, I searched high and low for a good bonnet over the past 3 years... lots of people have promised me a good bonnet but no one has delivered. I gave up after looking at 10 or 12 over the years and repaired this rust free one which was better than nothing. I'll wash it down with thinner to remove the etch and then spray it in polyester to fix the remaining flaws. All the lines are sharp and Ive repaired the ends to either side of the bonnet lines well... I cant get the centre 100% without removing it from the shell and I wont be doing that !
Todays bargain, other half wanted to stop by a local neighbourhood garage sale in Malvern today. I said to her they only ever have rubbish at those things. To my surprise I found an original jack that the factory issued to Rx3's.... cost was $2
... for once I left with something ! This will be blasted, painted in the original colour and have the new decal applied.
Thats all for now, next I'll be finishing off the roof and A pillars for sealing and then I'll be dummy fitting the 10a engine and gearbox to sort out the 5 speed mounting. Then it'll be up on the rotisserie and somewhere in between that I'll be back in Sydney going through my spares so that I can finish off the rear quarters.