The tape is made by 3M and made in New Zealand, should be easy to find Gary
$20 pretty cheap, thought it would be some exorbitant price.
Minor update and probably a boring one for most people. I've started doing a lot of the small jobs that slow a car down once painted. Some of it has been covered before but it doesn't matter since I'm not 100% what I'm doing with the sedan yet. I'm going to fix the shell and then decide what to do with it, keep it, sell it, fit 10a running gear (which is what I'm inclined to do) or fit a twin dizzy 12a PP with a similar ignition to my coupe. I haven't mentioned it to my mechanic yet as he already thinks I'm nuts. I'm a sucker for NA ported Mazda's always have been. The bridge port in the coupe isn't the most practical engine so I should know better however since I spend more time looking at them rather than driving them it's no big deal really.
Most of the following is for the sedan....
Testing and assembling the coil ignition relay, the case has been freshly plated. When crimping the case make sure the case has a good connection to the earth tap.
Ballast resistors cleaned, bracket zinc plated....
Ignition wiring degreased, plugs changed for new ones, damaged terminals replaced, crimped soldered, yellowed plugs replaced....
Last week I picked up a 10a oil cooler and I got another alternator to make 1 good one from 2. While there Jim showed me his yellow standard 10a coupe and the factory blue original 10a sedan. Both cars were really impressive especially the sedan. To survive so many years and still look like it does is nothing short of amazing. I've seen photos of it before but looks so much better in real life. Anyway I think the alternator came off the titanic... I had to use a cold chisel to remove one of the long screws, the rattle gun had a hard time getting the main nut off as well.
Coming apart... the screw that holds the heatsink to the rear case snapped, seized real good !
Heatsink was rusted through in spots so I replaced them with the ones from the other alternator which I had zinc plated. I've already covered an alternator build so no point going through all the detail again. It's here so if I sell the car the new owner knows they are getting a good alternator at least
6 diodes in the second photo, 3 are positive bias, 3 are negative bias...
Diodes installed in one of the heatsinks, need to make sure the solder "sweats" up the side of the diodes and that the right bias diodes are installed in each heatsink. Photo 2, the titanic alternator had a good brush holder so used that... don't forget the insulator on the B+ terminal otherwise you'll have a short circuit.
Field windings tested and then installed. The winding is tested for open and short circuit with the steel core. Photo 2, new bits and plated bits !
New front bearing installed...
Securing the front bearing... more fresh zinc parts Photo 2, installing a new rear bearing on the rotor.
Photo 1 small allen key used to hold brushes in retracted position so rotor can be installed. Photo 2, rotor dropped in
Front case screwed down and photo 2 the rebuilt alternator
Last check you should probably do is make sure the B+ terminal isn't shorted to the case.
The sedan 10a cooler that was bought last week... surprisingly in very good condition, a bit of a clean and a coat of paint and it will look like new again.
I sent the clutch master and slave away to be rebuilt even though they were both brand new. I suspect the fault was with the master (not holding pressure) but decided to have both fitted with a stainless steel bore and new seals. Looks like they zinc plated both of them as well. The gearbox is currently with the mechanic, no rush to get it back although I had the urge to go to the car meet up at Terry Hills today.
More boring updates until I get the urge to finish panel beating the sedan roof or lie on the cold garage floor to install the coupes gearbox for the 3rd time.