I like your thinking Ben, also check the ignition coil relay which bypasses the ballast resistors during startup. If you have an electronic ignition you don't need either of these components and they should be disconnected as part of the conversion. You should be using electronic compatible coils that don't need ballast resistors but that won't be your problem..... Yet !
That ignition problem will most likely be due to the coils seeing 12v during cranking, but not once you flick back to reds. The coils on these cars are supplied with two 12v feeds, one is ignition switched 12v, the other is cranking 12v. I'd say there is either a problem with the ignition 12v wire, or it isn't connected.
You could always try connecting ignition switched 12v from elsewhere to confirm, or even constant power from the battery but be aware that the car won't shut off if you connect it to constant power until you disconnect the wire to the coils.
Thanks guys, looked into it, and tried jumping the resistors, no change, tried jumping the ignition switch, couldn't find a good wiring diagram, lastly i pulled my plugs..... all of them were fouled out BAD lol. cleaned them and brap brap brap brap brap brap lol
........until it warmed up and then it died out.... thinkin i gotta play with timing or carb adjusting. lol not sure yet. but soon as the choke popped itself in it died and had a EXTREMLY hard time firing up. pulled plugs again, and they weren't fouled so not entirely sure whats up.
have this whole next weekend off (finally) and plan to spend some good time with her (unless i finally close on my house)