Picked this up a last month with the ever so rare broken kick start shaft. It came with the original key and a title which is quite rare. There is not much rust and the tank looks quite clean inside. So far I have the motor pulled out and the left and right engine cover off. Ordered up the clutch lock nut tool so that I can get at the broken kick start shaft. I also just received a genuine repair manual that will help me put this thing back together.







The front wheel is tweaked a bit. Would I need a new fork or is there some sort of adjusting that can be done?



I will try to update periodically as I receive parts and do more work to it. Thanks for looking.

Got some more parts. Carb rebuild kit, air filter, points set, manual, and the special flywheel tool. Finished rebuilding the carb today as well. Also found out that I need a speedo cable after I removed the handlebars.

wow! much nicer condition than mine is in..

^ Thanks, I was surprised at how clean it was. I bought it without considering condition because I wanted a Cub for a long time.

New updates

I was able to find a spare motor on craigslist that was about 40 miles away. It had a straight set of foot pegs, my originals are bent. I bought the motor mainly for its kickstart shaft and kick pedal. I almost bought an nos kickstart shaft for about $95, glad I didn't because this motor cost a bit more but had what I needed. The spare motor had a seized piston but we were able to free it. When I opened up the head, the combustion chamber had all of this crud in it.



Shaft out and ready to put in my good motor.



In and done. Just need to put the shift arm back on and the side cover with a new gasket.



Received some new parts as well. Michelins and tubes:



Spark plug and cap, headlight and taillight bulb, drain plug seals, fuel hose, and fuel cap gasket.



Going to fit the engine this weekend, mount the tires, and look into my tweaked front end issue.

Have a picture of the motor back in, it runs quite well. I'm having a carb issue at the moment. I tore the carb down and rebuilt it a while back and now fuel is gushing out of the drain when I put the lever to open. I searched the internet and it points to an issue with the float. Tested the float in some water and it lists to the side a bit but it floats. Anyone else got ideas, I'm scratching my head trying to figure this out.

Got some work done this weekend. I was able to clean up the front wheel hub and install new brake shoes. While I had the wheel off I changed the original tire out for a Michelin Gazelle sized up to a 2.50-17 tire. Used a tire iron from Harbor Freight and a flat plastic panel clip remover with some dish soap to mount the tire.





Rode it around for a bit, I can feel hesitation in 2nd gear and the motor won't rev higher when it gets hot. Hooked up the battery and the grounds are good, but when I test the lights with the multimeter I don't get a reading of 6 volts. The battery is charged and has good voltage.

Hello and congratulations with your C100 Supercub. The Supercub family of motorcycles are amazing little machines. I have an '82 C70 that I have put almost 25,000 basically trouble free miles on over the past seven years. I had the very same carburetor flooding issue as you at one point and yes it was a float about a quarter full of gas. With these little carburetors it doesn't take much to flood them out and if your float is tilting to one side it likely has something in it which is enough to cause flooding. I noticed you had a Keyster carb rebuild kit. Did your kit include a new needle valve? If not this is likely the problem. The last Keyster kit that I put in my carb did not come with a new needle valve. If you didn't get a new needle, you should. Did you ever solve your fuel overflowing problem? If your carb is still leaking this will likely be causing your power in second/rev-limiting issue. If not, you might want to try a valve adjustment since it's likely that it was never done. Also if you have installed the new points did you set the proper gap and adjust the ignition timing into spec? This would cause the symptoms you are having as well. It looks like you have a real solid bike to start with. Good Luck.
Tim

Yes, I did receive a new needle in the kit. Turns out that was the problem and was not seating properly on the valve. I just put the old needle and valve back in and sanded the needle a bit. No more overflow.

I haven't thought of doing a valve adjustment but I will now. I haven't replaced the points yet because I still need to buy a flywheel puller tool. You have some good advice, hope you can follow along as I am sure to run into more issues.

A friend of mine here in Australia has over 20 Cubs from I think the late 50's to recent. Rally kits and all sorts of things. He restores them then rides them around the forecourt of his storage unit!

Purchased a right side flasher switch and two flasher relays from a gentleman in the UK. Going to wire up my own harness, just need to buy a set of turn signals.



Was finally able to get it to idle properly. A little bit of fine tuning of the carb is in order to get it running just right. I also put in the headlight and taillight bulb and they work perfectly.

The brake light wasn't working at first but I adjusted the height of the switch so that it would make contact when pressed.