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PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2008 1:39 pm 
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kev wrote:
This is rather bizarre...the bumpstops are definitely the right part, and I'm pretty sure there isn't some special spacer or anything that I was supposed to buy as well. Just goes to show you should check new parts before fitting them up...I guess it's possible that a real GT-R has a deeper wheelhouse so you can go lower?


In my personal opinion, if you've ever hit the bump stops... your springs are too soft. :wink:


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2008 1:59 pm 
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2008 3:12 pm 
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cheater_5 wrote:
if you havent hit bumpstops or had to shorten them, you're not low enough :roll: :wink:
Get stiffer springs and roll the inside of the gaurd or reduce tyre size marginally to get that height


On a Hako with the GTR flares, the wheel arch is more or less the same height as the roof of the wheel tub, because the flare is cut quite high, so the issue is not the body lip, it's the top of the wheelhouse itself :)

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datsunfreak wrote:
No Kev, you are eating a duck fetus.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2008 3:15 pm 
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2008 3:38 pm 
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cheater_5 wrote:
haha remove some of that tyre then. Obviously the style of car suits large profile tyres but thats just crazy.
I just looked back to the first page of the thread, dang its come a way.


Well apart from the bodywork issue, the shock will be smashed to bits long time before the bumpstop ever comes in to do its job...

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datsunfreak wrote:
No Kev, you are eating a duck fetus.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2008 3:39 pm 
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MrHijet wrote:
Since they got quite cheap recently, have you thought about installing a wide band sensor ?

Check out http://www.14point7.com/ (Homepage of the YAW O2 Sensor). You just need to buy a Volkwagen/Bosch Wideband o2 sensor and you have fare more chances to figure out what the engine does at certain loads and revs.

Cheers,

Daniel

I thought about that too, but one of the nice things about living in Australia is that booking some dyno-time is not expensive.

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datsunfreak wrote:
No Kev, you are eating a duck fetus.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2008 4:17 pm 
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Ok, so this isn't Kev's Hakosuka, but I figured you guys would dig it. I can't believe how many were all together at the beginning!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w4U7gFFVY_k

I've e-mailed the guy a few times. Unfortunately he doesn't speak english and I don't speak japanese, but I think we got the points across that I love his car and he's excited that I want to get one.

Check out his other videos too!

-Andy


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2008 6:26 pm 

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kev wrote:
cheater_5 wrote:
haha remove some of that tyre then. Obviously the style of car suits large profile tyres but thats just crazy.
I just looked back to the first page of the thread, dang its come a way.


Well apart from the bodywork issue, the shock will be smashed to bits long time before the bumpstop ever comes in to do its job...


Is it possible those shocks are incorrect for the application? I can understand the issues with the tire contacting the well, as I believe Skyline's weren't engineered with that size in mind (assumption). Maybe there is a shock that offers some more room?
BTW, I really enjoy this thread....

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Last edited by Daron on Thu Oct 16, 2008 6:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2008 6:29 pm 
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Daron wrote:
kev wrote:
cheater_5 wrote:
haha remove some of that tyre then. Obviously the style of car suits large profile tyres but thats just crazy.
I just looked back to the first page of the thread, dang its come a way.


Well apart from the bodywork issue, the shock will be smashed to bits long time before the bumpstop ever comes in to do its job...


Is it possible those shocks are incorrect for the application?


They're the right length, it's just that they're not the right length for mega-slammage :) But it's a moot point anyway, I run out of bodywork at the same time as I run ouyt of shock travel.

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datsunfreak wrote:
No Kev, you are eating a duck fetus.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 17, 2008 12:51 am 
Quote:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w4U7gFFVY_k -Andy


Sweet vid, they make a lovely noise. :twisted:


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 18, 2008 4:12 am 
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This weekend I'm doing suspension. As you know, the car was way too low when I got it from Japan, and failed its engineering cert inspection initially because of it. The solution was height adjustable coilovers at the front....
Image

...and King Springs at the back. These were meant to be lowered springs for the C110 Skyline (ie 240K). However they raised the Hako a whole 9cm, but the resulting 16cm of ground clearance (a bit higher than stock) was more than enough to pass rego.
Image

First we start at the back. The Protec-S20 bumpstops I got in Japan were way too short (the shock bottoms out before the bumpstop even touches). So I bought a stick of "Wearlon" which is this hi-strength nylon, and cut off two 25mm roundels.
Image

With a suitable hole drilled in the middle, the new bumpstop spacers make the Protec bumpstops only 15mm shorter than stock. The springs are very inboard on the Hako, so 15mm at the bumpstop translates to more like 30mm at the wheel, so this is a bigger difference than it may seem.
Image

With the extended bumpstops in place, when the suspension is compressed to its limit, there is still 30mm of shock travel left.
Image

And 40mm left before the tyre starts to shred the bodywork
Image

I can't just sling in the old Japanese springs however, since they are too short, so I bought these when I was in Japan a few mths ago. Billet 25mm spring spacers from http://www.kameariengineworks.co.jp
Image

Image

Here's the resting height with it all buttoned together. There's 40mm of upward travel (at the wheel) before the bumpstop comes into play, and with the bumpstop compressed, there is another 20mm of travel. My rule of thumb for street cars is that you should aim for at least 2ins of wheel travel, so this should be quite ok with 2.5ins. The only thing I don't like is that the JDM springs seem a lot softer than the 600lb King Springs. We'll see how it goes on the road of course but I think I might end up getting some shorter 600lb springs from King at some later point. The back is a lot softer than the front at the moment (and there is no swaybar back there).

Image

Also, the car came fitted with 10mm spacers at the back, which actually worked out quite well because the super low ride height meant that the rear wheels had a lot of camber and so they tucked under the flare. I'm not running anywhere near that low, so I removed the spacers. But even with less camber, the wheel fitment is about right I think. Not *too* illegal :D
Image

BTW all the pics in this post were taken on my new fone :D Not bad eh :D

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datsunfreak wrote:
No Kev, you are eating a duck fetus.


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 18, 2008 5:56 am 
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kev wrote:
The only thing I don't like is that the JDM springs seem a lot softer than the 600lb King Springs. We'll see how it goes on the road of course but I think I might end up getting some shorter 600lb springs from King at some later point. The back is a lot softer than the front at the moment (and there is no swaybar back there)...


Honestly even a spring of 600 is a bit soft, IMO. That translates to a wheel rate of around 160. I normally run around 800 on my 510 (wheel rate of 200-220), and with the Hako being slightly heavier...

How was the ride on the 600s?


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 18, 2008 7:43 am 
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datsunfreak wrote:
How was the ride on the 600s?


Perfect. These Japanese springs are probably going to be waaaaay too soft, but we shall see :)

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datsunfreak wrote:
No Kev, you are eating a duck fetus.


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 18, 2008 11:17 am 
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Good work on the ride height, Kev. I like your attitude... the nylon stuff that you lopped off to put on there - good thinkin!


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 19, 2008 12:19 am 
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kev wrote:
So I bought a stick of "Wearlon" which is this hi-strength nylon


Over here it is called Delrin and that is a pretty good idea! And those pics look good, which phone do you have?

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datsunfreak wrote:
Or does he need help jiggling it? :P


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2008 12:27 am 

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You don't want to get Delrin too close to the exhaust.
It's a polyacetal.
When you burn it, it gives off formaldehyde and hydrochloric acid.
And you can't put it out.
Better off with nylon or better still UHDPE, or ultra high density polyethylene.

Hooks

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2008 7:23 am 
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Right!

I'm taking the plunge and fitting up the Kameari Engine Works distributor kit, just to eliminate the ignition system as the cause of the engine's woes. To refesh your memory, the kit includes an electronic module, the distributor, and a wiring loom. Also, I had to get a new distributor drive shaft since the Kameari dizzy is only compatible with the post 80's L-series engines. After this, the entire ignition system will be new, so if this doesn't fix it, then the problems lie elsewhere.
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It's a good time to do this since I have to remove the coilovers anyway. I have a set of Cusco camber tops to replace the VR Commodore top rubbers, but I can't get the top nut off the shock, the whole thing just spins around. So I'll get them rattlegunned off tomorrow. It's so much easier to disassemble the car now that everything's clean and the bolts are new!
Image

The L-series is a little unusual in that the oil pump hangs outside the block (it's that square box behind the crank pulley). The distributor is driven off the same shaft that drives the oil pump, so the oil pump has to be dropped out in order to replace the shaft with the later one.
Image

You can see here from a different angle, as the oil pump comes out the shaft is quite long, and the distributor mounts to the pedestal at the top of the pic.
Image

I mounted the Kameari module just behind the passenger side headlights, and the loom is a simple one, just has 3 wires that go to earth, and the pos and neg terminals on the MSD coil.
Image

And that's it for tonight....I'm waiting on an oil pump gasket to arrive and then I can put the oil pump back and fit up the new dizzy.

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datsunfreak wrote:
No Kev, you are eating a duck fetus.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2008 1:45 pm 
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Do they make the same kit for the L-series 4 cylinder? 8)


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2008 4:24 pm 
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datsunfreak wrote:
Do they make the same kit for the L-series 4 cylinder? 8)

Sure do :)

http://www.kameariengineworks.co.jp/catalogue-P53.pdf

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datsunfreak wrote:
No Kev, you are eating a duck fetus.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2008 6:51 pm 
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If only it were in English... :P


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