Ok, had a pretty productive day today, but as you'll see there's still a bit of mucking around to do before we can fire her up.
Here's the new manifold gasket vs the old one (underneath). The new one is actually an off the shelf one, but Stewart Wilkins enlarged the inlet holes for me to match the ports on the head.
Second job was the swap the throttle arms from one side to the other to suit the Redline manifold
...and the idle speed screw is moved to the other side as well...so far so good, it was pretty straightforward
Ok, now the moment of truth. The machine shop that did the manifold recommended that I use the gasket with a very thin smear of hi temp silicone (Copper RTV)...this is the side facing the head.
The manifolds get some silicone too.
On we go...everything fits much better with the new studs.
Next are the Redline softmounts...I'm not reusing the bakelite spacers that came with the JDM manifold, and also the Redline manifold is about an inch longer, so I've got space issues anyway. Interestingly, when you use softmounts, you don't just bolt the carbs to the manifold, instead you use these squashy rubber washers.
The instructions say to tighten the nut until it touches the rubber washer, then give it another 1.5 turns. This isn't very much at all, the carb is held quite firmly but you can still wiggle it a tiny bit, which is the whole idea I suppose.
Looking good!....but at this point I've actually made a HUGE error, as you'll see in a moment
But anyway...the Redline manifold is so much longer that one of the K&N airfilters wants to occupy the same real estate as the washer bottle. Also the other two filters are so close to the bodywork that I can't get a screwdriver in there to fasten the top of the filter....looks like I'll be driving around JDM-stylez without filters until Plan B makes itself known.
Well anyway here's the stuff-up...I should have installed the linkages before I put the manifold on.
The Redline manifold has got different positions for the jackshaft mounts...the old FET had the mounts in different spots and you could still somehow get the jackshaft in and out...but with the Redline manifold, the only way I can get the jackshaft in now, is to remove the radiator
...or remove the centre mount for the jackshaft, which you can see in the pic above.
I want to take the radiator out after rego anyway, and also replace the fixed fan with a clutch one, and check the waterpump...but for the time being I think this bodge will be ok. The jackshaft is 10mm steel, so I can't see it flexing or getting bent or anything like that, especially since the bellcrank for the throttle cable is mounted right next to one of the mounts.
An immediate problem is that the longer Redline manifold means that the original throttle cable mount is now too far away to get full throttle travel. I'll have to make up a longer bracket to put the tip of the cable closer to the jackshaft...and re-route the brake booster hose too!
As you can see, with the softmounts, there is quite a big gap between the carbs and the manifold. It should be good to prevent heat from being conducted to the carbs from the manifold (but the main source of heat in an L-series installation will be radiated heat from the headers below anyway)
The other issue is this...moving the throttle arm to the other side means that the linkage for carb #1 is awfully close to the distributor and ignition cables.
I can re-route the plug wires to get some clearance, but it isn't ideal and it makes sense that the Japanese manifold put the linkages on the other side. I can make juuust enough room by making the plug wires go around the front of the engine, but now will have to get new wires of a different length, because now most of them are too short. Just as well these are just $6ea cables from Auto One.
Ahh well...still some more fiddling to go, but nothing insurmountable. At least it all looks nice...
No Kev, you are eating a duck fetus.