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 Post subject: Re: JNC Project Hakosuka Build Thread
PostPosted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 11:30 pm 
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Thanks Skorj. I think we're good for now, I can't get the oil surge to repeat itself anymore, no matter how hard I try, so I think we're in a good place with the current arrangement. If it does raise its head on the track again, there are race shops here who can weld in baffles around the pickup in the bowl, although I would have thought that the sump is so old and the steel so contaminated with oil, that any weld wouldn't be 100% trustworthy...

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 Post subject: Re: JNC Project Hakosuka Build Thread
PostPosted: Sat Jan 04, 2014 6:41 am 
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Now that the engine has had so many new parts in the past few days, I figured it would be a shame not to give the car a bit of a birthday and treat her to a nice tune up. Actually I think this really is the 6th anniversary of the Hako setting sail from Japan for Australia (well, give or take a couple of days).

First I pull the plugs and install a new set of NGK BP6ES. The old ones have a nice dry colour, so nothing seems amiss. #3 has a bit of crud on it...
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...but I'd say that's because I've plumbed the return pipe from the crankcase breather into cylinder #3. I guess the catch can doesn't quite do a 100% job of scrubbing the oil mist from the crankcase vapours.
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Then some new plug leads. 6yrs ago, I was kinda grasping at straws to try to figure out why the engine wouldn't run, and so grabbed at some $6ea leads from the local parts store just as a test. Anyway, they seemed to have worked well enough since then, and I didn't actually manage to get over to Magnecor to get a nice set of custom leads made. However, nothing lasts forever, and the old leads are showing quite high resistance, most are in the 8-9 KOhm range, and a couple are 12-13 KOhm. I think I have a Toyota workshop manual somewhere that says that leads are toast when they get over 20, so they still have some life left.
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But just the same, some new leads (of the same $6 brand!) measure at 3 KOhm, so the old leads were certainly past their prime. Just changing the leads seems to have made the engine feel fresher and more crisp, I guess any big carbed and big cammed oldschool motor relies on a supersized spark to smooth over its driveability inefficiencies at low rpm, so every little bit helps. And at $30 a set, it won't hurt to throw new plug leads on every couple of years from now on.
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Then a quick check of the ignition timing to see that it's still at 12BTDC (it was...), and so we move onto the carbs. The first thing I check is the idle mixtures, which is governed by these screws here. It's an easy visual check, in that I know that the right idle mixtures on my setup are when the idle screws are 7/8s a turn away from closed. Which for carb #2 & #3, have the mixture screws at this "quarter to three" angle.
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Whereas for carb #1, the screws are at this "angry eyebrows" angle instead. So these are all fine and there's no need to fiddle.
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Next, I move onto sync'ing the 3 carbs together. They have to act in perfect unison, so they all have to be closed at precisely the same time at idle, and open at the same time when you hit the loud pedal. First step is to pop off the droplinks on 2 of the carbs.
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I leave the middle carb connected to the linkage jackshaft. The reason for this, is to disconnect the 3 carbs from each other. This way, any adjustment you make to one carb, won't pull the others out of whack.
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There are a few schools of thought as to how to sync carbs, but I like to do it this way. So I first remove the brass plug on one of the progression ports on each carb.
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You can see here that the progression ports are 3 tiny little holes, and normally that bowl is full of fuel. When you crack open the throttle off-idle, the function of the little holes is to give a little slug of enrichment to improve response. But, they are also useful as a sight-window into the position of the throttle flap. If you look really closely, you'll see the throttle flap covering the top half of the top hole.
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Repeat this check on the other 2 carbs, and if need be, adjust the throttle flap position with this screw. That tiny little progression hole is maybe a millimetre big, so I figure that this is as precise a way of zeroing the carbs to each other as can be. I think I last adjusted these a 3 years ago on the bench before installing the carbs, and they're still in perfect adjustment, so it's not something that will constantly need to be corrected. And this method seems more precise than messing around with devices that measure airflow at the intake.
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Now that the carbs are all zeroed to the same position, you need to make sure that the 3 linkage arms are also zeroed. It's no point getting the carbs just-so, and then when you reconnect the linkages, it pulls one carb open slightly when the other 2 are closed. So I loosen the linkage arm on the jackshaft, reconnect the droplink (after putting a little dab of lithium grease on the sockets)...and then gently taking up the slack, re-tighten the linkage arm on the jackshaft.
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And then you're done, a 15min check that can be done annually :) IMHO, the most important part of tuning the carbs, is getting the throttle flaps sync'd perfectly, so that they all open in perfect unison (and you get a perfectly synchronised dump of fuel from the progression port holes!), and that's what gives that nice, crisp response.
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 Post subject: Re: JNC Project Hakosuka Build Thread
PostPosted: Sun Jan 05, 2014 12:45 am 

Joined: Sat Jan 04, 2014 4:59 am
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Location: Auckland
Awesome to see this getting updated again :D


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 Post subject: Re: JNC Project Hakosuka Build Thread
PostPosted: Sun Jan 05, 2014 1:01 am 
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Mlracing wrote:
Awesome to see this getting updated again :D


Ditto. Details appreciated! Neko.

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 Post subject: Re: JNC Project Hakosuka Build Thread
PostPosted: Sun Jan 05, 2014 5:42 am 
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Thanks for the warm welcome back :)

The new car is still in Japan, so we have a few months before I get distracted again :D

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 Post subject: Re: JNC Project Hakosuka Build Thread
PostPosted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 12:59 am 
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kev wrote:
The new car is still in Japan, so we have a few months before I get distracted again :D

If you need someone to make sure its oil pick-up does not starve on tight left handers around the Usui Touge before it leaves, just ask. Neko.

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 Post subject: Re: JNC Project Hakosuka Build Thread
PostPosted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 1:21 am 
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Kuroneko wrote:
kev wrote:
The new car is still in Japan, so we have a few months before I get distracted again :D

If you need someone to make sure its oil pick-up does not starve on tight left handers around the Usui Touge before it leaves, just ask. Neko.

Do you speak rotary?

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 Post subject: Re: JNC Project Hakosuka Build Thread
PostPosted: Wed Jan 08, 2014 1:11 am 
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kev wrote:
Do you speak rotary?
Not very well!

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 Post subject: Re: JNC Project Hakosuka Build Thread
PostPosted: Wed Jan 08, 2014 4:46 am 
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Kuroneko wrote:
kev wrote:
Do you speak rotary?
Not very well!

I have to be brutally honest, but this job interview is not going very well for you.

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 Post subject: Re: JNC Project Hakosuka Build Thread
PostPosted: Thu Jan 09, 2014 11:10 pm 
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kev wrote:
Kuroneko wrote:
kev wrote:
Do you speak rotary?
Not very well!

I have to be brutally honest, but this job interview is not going very well for you.

bwhahahahhahhahhaa


This is why I always come back.

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 Post subject: Re: JNC Project Hakosuka Build Thread
PostPosted: Fri Jan 10, 2014 1:36 am 
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kev wrote:
Kuroneko wrote:
kev wrote:
Do you speak rotary?
Not very well!

I have to be brutally honest, but this job interview is not going very well for you.


Aw, go on. Give the kid a chance. He's driven all over Japan and hasn't had a single crash. None that he's mentioned, anyway.


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 Post subject: Re: JNC Project Hakosuka Build Thread
PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2014 11:31 pm 
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Ha! I am a quick learner? Everyone has to start somewhere? I show good enthusiasm? I can convert from piston engine talk? Never crashed, but do have a speed-over ticket (45km/h in a 50km/h zone, on a 50cc speed limited to 35km/h). How many more excuses? Neko.

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 Post subject: Re: JNC Project Hakosuka Build Thread
PostPosted: Mon Jan 13, 2014 3:08 am 
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Let me take this offline with the key stakeholders, and I'll circle back to you.

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 Post subject: Re: JNC Project Hakosuka Build Thread
PostPosted: Sat Apr 05, 2014 6:34 pm 
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My first Sydney Cars & Coffee was a good event :)

"Just park up over there in front of the McLarens and the silver 360 Ferrari"
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This is the 3rd C&C, held at the very good Cavallino restaurant (http://cavallino.com.au/cars-and-coffee.html) which is owned by Lido, a Porsche nutter and sports car fanatic. Cavallino was open to serve coffees and rather posh looking sausage rolls with prociutto and fancy cheese
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The place was packed with nice cars for a few blocks...luckily Lido's guy let me into a coned-off area for a nice parking spot.
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A huge turnout of cars and people for an event in its 3rd month, that's just been spread via word of mouth, so I think this is one event that will grow to be quite huge soon.
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"Gotta move the Scuderia to get the Hako to get the McLaren(s) out"
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Macca 650S was reputedly fresh off the truck that very morning, and driven straight here.
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Testarossa (well, 512TR to be exact)! And 550 Maranello with a leather padded rollcage :)
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USA vs Germany vs Italy
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The Impala SS won ppl's choice
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Jensen 541 with the radiator blind flipped open
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Lincoln, Jensen 541, Porsche 356 and Fezza 308 all in the same pic :)
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STRAYA
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Scotty from Hamilton's was there in their Group 4 shop car
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Given that I'm local...I guess I don't have any excuse for not attenting every mth :) I reckon in future I'll have to get there before the 8am start to get a nice spot tho.
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Overall, the variety of cars was amazing. The rain started falling, so I didn't get a chance to take snaps of some of the other cars, but notable notables included a pair of 1Ms, Plymouth Superbird, at least three Gallardos, Fiat 130 Coupe...the rain came down towards the end, which is a shame as I didn't get a chance to check out the cars parked in the surrounding streets. Great event, I will attend again :D

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 Post subject: Re: JNC Project Hakosuka Build Thread
PostPosted: Mon Apr 07, 2014 5:08 pm 

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Wow some awesome cars there


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 Post subject: Re: JNC Project Hakosuka Build Thread
PostPosted: Tue Apr 08, 2014 9:36 am 
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Wait so are there special assigned parking spots and awards given out at Cars & Coffe usually? The one we have in Cincy (which I need to post pictures from when they're done being edited...) is basically just a big meet, first come first serve for spots and there aren't any awards.

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 Post subject: Re: JNC Project Hakosuka Build Thread
PostPosted: Mon May 05, 2014 2:15 am 
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I started reading this thread from page 1 on Friday morning, in-between work, snowboarding, bike riding, dropping missus RW off at the airport and getting back into work, I've just caught up part way through Monday morning 8)
Amazing journey, I've enjoyed reading it very much. I've just purchased an old Nissan from Japan, coming from a rotary family I knew nothing about Nissans or pistons, this thread has taught me a lot. I know exactly what to look for first when mine rolls out of the container.
Looking forward to more updates of your Hakosuka. :tu:

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 Post subject: Re: JNC Project Hakosuka Build Thread
PostPosted: Sat May 31, 2014 4:44 am 
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Over the years, most of the parts I've sourced for the Hako have come from Rubber-Soul.net in Japan. And recently I paid them a bit of a visit when I was in Osaka (more on this story a little later...)
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Nobody on their staff speaks English and they don't ship overseas, so I've always ordered my parts through a local. So it was quite a treat to finally go to the treasure-trove of Hakosuka goodness :D Needless to say, it's impossible to leave empty-handed
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The easiest things to fit when I got back, were the new front indicators. My old ones were in decent shape, the rubber seal had fallen apart, but the handmade one I kludged up in 2007 seemed to be holding. Anyway, it's nice to have new things.
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The new ones do seem a lot "brighter" than the old ones (which are resprayed silver inside).
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I can't help but feel though...that I've made a "clean spot" in the front end now, and the indicators stand out a mile :)
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Another interesting discovery was that the headlights aren't stock. I think the oem items are Koito sealed beams, but at some point (probably in the 70s) my car got a fancy upgrade to Cibie Iodes, which mean that the bulbs are H4 and replaceable.
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Another item picked up at the Autobacs in Japan, were a pair of PIAA Night Techs, so the old H4 bulbs which gave the headlights a blue tinge can now be retired.
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I...think...the new one (on the right) is a little brighter?
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Another little engine bay detail that has bugged me for years, is the poor state of the brake booster and master cylinder. The MC has been rebuilt, but the reservoir lids were a slightly loose fit, hence the tape to keep them on. The booster also copped a really awesome brush painted finish at some point in the past, which I've been too lazy to rectify...but now is a good time, because I also picked up some parts to rebush the pedal assembly.
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The clutch and brake pedals work just fine, but they do have a little side to side play, which makes it feel slightly rickety. Both clutch and brake pedals are attached the same way...the pushrod has a pin which is held in by a C-clip, and at the top the pedal swings on a shaft that is welded onto the bulkhead, and there's a split pin to remove before the pedal can slide off.
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New vs old bushes. I'd expected the old bushes to be either ground to dust, or cracked, but they seem fine, if somewhat thinner than the new ones.
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The new bushes press on quite firmly and I've put plenty of lithium grease inside.
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The brake pedal was a bit more complicated, as there wasn't room to swing the MC pushrod around. Loosening the booster allowed it to slide fwds a bit, which made all the difference though.
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Ah yes....that booster does need a lick of paint :D
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Luckily, I'd remembered to pick up a firewall gasket while I was in Japan.
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And with the booster repainted and a pair of new reservoir caps, it is better than it was :)
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Another little detail I wanted to take care of, was the finish on the front sway bar, which had a little surface rust and overspray on it. I'd replaced the droplink bushes years ago, but the D-bush is still original. And for some unknown reason, years ago I decided to paint the D-bush brackets silver.
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So the swaybar goes away to get sandblasted and powdercoated, and there's a new set of bushes ready to go.
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With the radius rods and tie-rods replaced recently, the front end is looking pretty sweet. I think there's just the steering box and idler to rebuild, and then it'll be all-new.
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The great thing about visiting a proper resto shop with plenty of stock, is that you pick up little things like this. The proper fasteners for the cowl panel.
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So rather than random self tappers, I re-tapped the holes and fitted up the proper bolts.
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Much better!
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The big ticket items I was hoping to score in Japan, were a set of exterior door handles, but they seem to be at the point where all the NOS ones are gone, and the repro ones are only just starting to be available. Rubber-Soul didn't have any, and the other thing I wanted, which were the C-pillar vents, were available, but were at unobtanium prices, so I think I'll wait until those are available as a repro.
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The other thing that I needed to sort out...was a pinhole leak in the radiator. It was coming from where the fan switch boss was brazed onto the top tank, so out came the radiator and I dropped it off at Alexandria Radiator Services to get sorted, and to get it cleaned out and serviced too.
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At first I thought that a service was a bit of overkill, but then the guys reminded me that they built that rad for me 6yrs ago. In my mind, it's still new! But it came back all nice and fresh, and now with an extra thick layer of solder around the fan switch boss.
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I'd picked up a repro sticker in Japan, so that went on...
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And it goes back in easy as pie. This is a stark contrast to the half-day I am setting aside to swap the radiator in my other car (an FD RX-7)...this rad goes back in in 10mins.
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The last job...is to fit the new gearbox mount. I'd renewed the engine mounts quite some months ago, but as far as I knew, the gearbox mount is still original.
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...the old mount unbolts easily enough.
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And then I support the gearbox with a jack, then unbolt and lower the crossmember.
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New vs old...the old one looks to be in good shape. A few of the Hako owners in the US had reported that their mounts had split, but this looks aged and hard, but not in such bad shape.
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And in it goes!
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Quite a flurry of activity this week...stay tuned for the blog post on the visit to Rubber-Soul :D

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 Post subject: Re: JNC Project Hakosuka Build Thread
PostPosted: Sat May 31, 2014 7:56 am 
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Great to see you working on it again and that you're still in lurv...


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 Post subject: Re: JNC Project Hakosuka Build Thread
PostPosted: Sat May 31, 2014 2:23 pm 
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How could you *not* be in love with a Hakosuka :D It's not possible :)

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