heeroyuy01195 wrote:
Don't mean to ask a stupid question but I'm new to the model car realm, any tips on lowering the car? I have a Fujimi AW11 MR2 with independent struts up front and the rear on a brass bar/axle.
I lowered my Tamiya R30 Skyline somewhat. The back was easy as it had the usual 2mm metal axle, so I just slotted the holes upwards (and bent the axle ends to give it a bit of camber). The trailing arm moulding sat below that and was unaffected.
The front was a bit more accurate with the struts etc. I basically did as you would at 1:1, by chopping the top of the strut away then bending the lower arm up to suit. I also slotted the holes for the strut tops, so I could push the struts in and give it some camber there too.
Some Fujimi kits have a simple answer, in that there is a small round spacer which goes either at the top or bottom of the strut, making it sit higher or lower as you want. That way you don’t have to play around with the lower arms, but you need to check they won’t foul your chosen wheels.
The Honda City I did above was very easy with metal rod axles fore and aft, but even then I had to take material off the back of the wheels so they sat in the right place, and cut and reposition the rear inner arches (like tubbing a pro-street car).
I’m now doing a Silvia S13, again by Tamiya. That has very nicely detailed suspension, meaning I’ve got to do a bit more head-scratching as to how that one will get lowered and receive its new wheels. What I’ll do is dry-assemble it unmodified then work out how much needs removing and where.
If the model is never going to leave your shelf and you’re not fussed about 100% accuracy, don’t be afraid just to ditch it all and stick some metal rods through. It’s just a model, doesn’t need real suspension!
