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PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2008 7:05 pm 
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F3ARED wrote:
Also, what are you painting them in? I tried VHT Gloss Nu-Cast [its made for ally heads and shit] but it turned out pretty dull.


Well, it's made to look like cast metal. It's supposed to be dull. :wink:

I (and others) have gotten good results with the small cans of Tamiya model spray paint. You can get it at your local hobby supply store.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2008 7:44 pm 

Joined: Wed Jul 30, 2008 7:39 am
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Quote:
Well, it's made to look like cast metal. It's supposed to be dull


Yeah, except for the fact it looks like 2pack gloss on everything else ive painted it on! lol

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[F3ARED] 76 Isuzu Gemini Coupe - forged G180z, EFI, 525hp Turbo, 6years and still building...

Daily 78 Isuzu Gemini Sedan, stock G161z, Rodeo EFI, 500hp roller, 157rwkw. Fun :D


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2008 9:03 pm 
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Have you tried polishing it? That's another big difference between average looking and awesome. 8)


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 6:16 am 
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All of mine if the past few years have been painted with Tamiya spray paint. Once they are dry I polish them out using Mequiers paint polish and wax.

Here are some examples of the finished product, all of these are use Tamiya spray cans...

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 8:51 am 
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Great work! Where do you get those wild body kits like on the MR-S?

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 11:49 am 
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The model came like that. It is the Veilside Toyota MR2 Spder. I built it straight out of the box.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2008 3:22 am 
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I found this...

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2008 5:05 pm 
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Hey guys, I am working on this RX-7 but I was wanting some suggestions on interior colors. If anyone has some interior shots of a first gen RX-7 send them to me please.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2008 7:36 pm 
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kingtoy wrote:
If anyone has some interior shots of a first gen RX-7 send them to me please.


FWIW, Hiley Mazda over in Hurst has a fully restored one sitting on their lot. 8)


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 03, 2008 7:26 am 
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does anyone know where I can buy Japanese motors for 1/24th scale cars? Specifically a 4ag or 3sge (or 3sgte). Actually, I'll take anything Toyota at this point lol.

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1989 トヨタ MR2
http://killerpickleofdoomandstuff.blogspot.com/


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 03, 2008 8:28 am 
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heeroyuy01195 wrote:
does anyone know where I can buy Japanese motors for 1/24th scale cars? Specifically a 4ag or 3sge (or 3sgte). Actually, I'll take anything Toyota at this point lol.


Well your in luck, they make both those engines in 1/24th scale. You can find them here..

The 3SGE

http://www.hlj.com/product/SAK3306

For the 4AG

http://www.hlj.com/product/AOS03822

http://www.hlj.com/product/AOS03871

http://www.hlj.com/product/FUJ03657

And in case you want to build a 20V 4AG....

http://www.hlj.com/product/AOS03921

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81 TE75 Corolla SR5 Sport Coupe modified
Custom 93 Toyota minitruck


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 03, 2008 9:57 am 
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Thanks for the tip, I was looking at those earlier but they all seem to either be out of stock or back ordered :(

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1989 トヨタ MR2
http://killerpickleofdoomandstuff.blogspot.com/


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 03, 2008 12:19 pm 
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Yeah, sometimes you have to play the waiting game. :|

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81 TE75 Corolla SR5 Sport Coupe modified
Custom 93 Toyota minitruck


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 03, 2008 2:33 pm 
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heeroyuy01195 wrote:
Thanks for the tip, I was looking at those earlier but they all seem to either be out of stock or back ordered :(


"Out of stock" at HLJ usually doesn't mean much. Almost every time I order something that is "out of stock" they have it ready to ship in a week or two.

But usually for them to get some in stock, you have to order one first. :wink:


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 03, 2008 2:38 pm 

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You guys suck..
Because of yall Ive spent the last two hours on these websites figuring out how much stuff would be after I converted yen to usd.. haha..

I used to have a bunch of stuff I did before I had real cars.. I had the most fun just putting wild engines together.. But I think I could really get into building them again now that Ive seen what can be done.. super cool


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 03, 2008 6:02 pm 
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Don't mean to ask a stupid question but I'm new to the model car realm, any tips on lowering the car? I have a Fujimi AW11 MR2 with independent struts up front and the rear on a brass bar/axle.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 03, 2008 9:04 pm 
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heeroyuy01195 wrote:
Don't mean to ask a stupid question but I'm new to the model car realm, any tips on lowering the car? I have a Fujimi AW11 MR2 with independent struts up front and the rear on a brass bar/axle.


Let me look at one of my AW11 models and I will get back to you about the best way to lower it. :D

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 04, 2008 8:54 am 

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heeroyuy01195 wrote:
Don't mean to ask a stupid question but I'm new to the model car realm, any tips on lowering the car? I have a Fujimi AW11 MR2 with independent struts up front and the rear on a brass bar/axle.


I lowered my Tamiya R30 Skyline somewhat. The back was easy as it had the usual 2mm metal axle, so I just slotted the holes upwards (and bent the axle ends to give it a bit of camber). The trailing arm moulding sat below that and was unaffected.

The front was a bit more accurate with the struts etc. I basically did as you would at 1:1, by chopping the top of the strut away then bending the lower arm up to suit. I also slotted the holes for the strut tops, so I could push the struts in and give it some camber there too.

Some Fujimi kits have a simple answer, in that there is a small round spacer which goes either at the top or bottom of the strut, making it sit higher or lower as you want. That way you don’t have to play around with the lower arms, but you need to check they won’t foul your chosen wheels.

The Honda City I did above was very easy with metal rod axles fore and aft, but even then I had to take material off the back of the wheels so they sat in the right place, and cut and reposition the rear inner arches (like tubbing a pro-street car).

I’m now doing a Silvia S13, again by Tamiya. That has very nicely detailed suspension, meaning I’ve got to do a bit more head-scratching as to how that one will get lowered and receive its new wheels. What I’ll do is dry-assemble it unmodified then work out how much needs removing and where.

If the model is never going to leave your shelf and you’re not fussed about 100% accuracy, don’t be afraid just to ditch it all and stick some metal rods through. It’s just a model, doesn’t need real suspension!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 05, 2008 1:46 am 

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Location: Norfolk, UK
A friend on a modelling forum posted this, explains it better than the above and also shows how to deal with rear end if that’s more accurately detailed.

Image

Edit: Original post here... http://forum.spc.org.uk/phpBB3/viewtopi ... =3&t=10442


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 05, 2008 7:04 am 
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Spottedlaurel wrote:
A friend on a modelling forum posted this, explains it better than the above and also shows how to deal with rear end if that’s more accurately detailed.

Image

Edit: Original post here... http://forum.spc.org.uk/phpBB3/viewtopi ... =3&t=10442


That is a pretty good drawing. For the front I tend to lower sectioning the strut shaft, then shimming or adjusting the lower control arms to match.

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81 TE75 Corolla SR5 Sport Coupe modified
Custom 93 Toyota minitruck


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