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Thread: 1971 Mazda 616 Build

  1. #1
    Junior Member
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    1971 Mazda 616 Build

    Hi,

    I am new to this forum. I eventually stumbled apon this forum after looking for some info on my Mazda 616. Hopefully i can get some info and tips on my rebuild. I can't really find a lot of info about this car. Especially not the 1.6 na engine. It seems that most people do a rotary conversion.

    I bought a 1971 Mazda 616 4 door about 2 months ago. I want to use the car for gymkhana racing as well as some fun on the road. I do not want to cut it apart and build a full race car as that would just be stupid and a waste of a fairly good body.

    My plan is to restore the car to a fairly original looking state, with some small subtle changes and some engine and suspension mods underneath the skin. basically a classic car with that i can also use for some fun

    The car still has the original 1.6 4 cyl na engine in. It had a terrible knock!! So cant be used as is.

    The gymkhana class that I want to compete in is up to 2L normally aspirated rwd. The obvious choice would be to put a 2L 16V engine in, BUT I want to use the car as a hobby and have fun with it without ruining my bank balance completely.

    I decided for now to just rebuilt the original motor and modify it a bit to get more power. Maybe in the future when the rest of the car is sorted out I can do an engine transplant.

    So far i have found absolutely no info or performance "advice" on the 1.6 engine. So i am following the "normal" route of mods... higher compression, bigger carburettor, head port and flow, branch, freeflow exhaust, ballance and cam. I hope this all works good together.

    I will post some pics of what i have done so far.

  2. #2
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    Now i just need to figure out how to post pics.... ops:

  3. #3
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    aaaaah. got it.. :mrgreen:

    This is what the car looked like when i bought it...












    [/img]

  4. #4
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    As can be seen in the previous pics the body is in fairly good shape for a 40 year old car.

    I proceded to strip the whole car in order to get to all the rust and do a thorough job of the bodywork. I am also going to change the color slightly.






























  5. #5
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    The engine was in a very sad state. It had a bearing "knock" and some other funny noise. I suspected the timing chain.

    It was FULL of oil EVERYWHERE!!! had some serious oil leaks!




  6. #6
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    When I opened the timing cover I discovered why the timing chain was so noisy.

    The tensioner guides where worn off completely and the chain had almost no tension.

    Even the inside of the engine was dirty!






  7. #7
    Senior Member
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    Villeneuve, Qld, Australia
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    Hello there and welcome aboard!

    My favourite Mazda, series 1 Capella! Looks to be in good condition in the body, the series one's and two's did get a thicker panel metal from factory so they take a bit longer to rust! Really like that colour, a shade of blue we never got here!

    The NA looks to have all the common faults they had. They did get small end bush knocks very regularly, particularly in the early engines with the single chains. Just about all 4 pot Mazda engines from the 70's leaked oil, the gaskets I've done over the years!! The NA does very well with all the old school mods like you're mentioned. I would add the double row timing chain if you can find the bits and piece's. Ebay Australia has a fair amount of the old Mazda piston gear on there. As you mentioned everyone follows the crowd and puts in a rotary engine. From factory, the NA 1.6 had 11hp less than the 12A so they weren't far away, a set of extractors and you're there!

  8. #8
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    I didn't know about the double chain. bought a new single chain kit with new tensioners.

    I was VERY supprised that the local spares shop have all the parts to rebuild the motor in stock. They have all the oversize pistons, bearings, gaskets, everything. It is quite cheap aswell. This is quite impressive for a 40 year old car...

    Here's some pics of the opened up motor.

    The main and big end bearings had severe metal fatigue.
















  9. #9
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    Grenna, Sweden, Europe
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    Nice project!

    Guess you need some new parts for that enghine!

    // Magnus

  10. #10
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    The engine still had the original pistons in.

    I had the block bored to fit 60 thou oversize pistons, skimmed the block to raise the compression ratio and replaced all bearings. The crank had to be grind because of a little bit of wear.

    I also machined the flywheel to get it lighter. weight before was 10.3kg and after machining went down to 6.4kg.

    I then had the motor ballanced aswell.















    Flywheel before and after:










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