Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 26

Thread: Stock Nissan 210 to Rally prepped

  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Atlanta
    Posts
    51

    Stock Nissan 210 to Rally prepped

    So I just bought a little Nissan 210(B310) and am going to get it running and then let the rally/safari conversion start.
    Its a nice little rust and wreck free car with a straight underbody.

    I'll post some pictures.

  2. #2
    Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Atlanta
    Posts
    51




    4 link is a huge bonus!!!!



  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
    Posts
    170
    Cool man, did you pick that up in Mableton? If so i spotted it months ago, and keep driving by to check on it. Are you going to acually rally race it? I'd like to know about the races if you do.

  4. #4
    Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Atlanta
    Posts
    51
    Yeah that's the one!

    There are some rallys up in Tennessee so I'm going to see what requirements they have for prepping.

    Its more going to be a toy I can take and hit the forestry trails with, but I want it to be competition ready if I get to that point.

    The car is up at the race shop right now, so if there isn't too much work to do on the race cars, I'm going to try to get it on the lift today and figure out a plan of attack on stripping it out and maybe mock up a roll cage in 3/4" EMT.

  5. #5
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
    Posts
    170
    Sounds fun, i have always wanted to do some rally racing.

  6. #6
    Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Barbados
    Posts
    45
    Looks like a good, solid body to start with. :tu: Easiest place to start is to strip the interior, remove the sound deadener and go from there. Seam welding and some chassis reinforcement would be good too if you want to do off road rallies. These little, Jap tin cans can take a good set of abuse but gravel and dirt rallies do put a lot of stress on cars.

  7. #7
    Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Atlanta
    Posts
    51
    Quote Originally Posted by slims
    Looks like a good, solid body to start with. :tu: Easiest place to start is to strip the interior, remove the sound deadener and go from there. Seam welding and some chassis reinforcement would be good too if you want to do off road rallies. These little, Jap tin cans can take a good set of abuse but gravel and dirt rallies do put a lot of stress on cars.
    YEP! Already started:


    The 310 sitting out behind the race shop:


    dash has issues....



    Started stripping the tar off of the floor with a chisel and hammer... got the driver's side. Getting it ready for seam welding...






    test spot on the roof cleaned up nicely with a flat can of coca cola and a rag:



    If anybody wants a good condition 210 interior minus carpets then I'm selling mine cheap. $100 will get the seats and all interior panels/ headliner with matching seatbelts, etc... (except the kick panel part at the bottom of the door, those were broken up.)

  8. #8
    Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Atlanta
    Posts
    51
    Somebody on one of the forums was saying how the 310 brakes were beefy and did not really need upgrading..... The caliper is like the size of a baseball! No way I'm going to use that. Got to figure out if I can use my 240z suspension with the Toyota 4 piston calipers and figure out what to do for a control arm and maybe use a steering rack and toss the 40's technology steering.
    Wheels are going to be 0 offset steel 15x8 DRW wheels that were on my early 260z.

  9. #9
    Administrator john's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Arlington, TX, USA
    Posts
    5,529
    Quote Originally Posted by Master-O-Turbonics
    Somebody on one of the forums was saying how the 310 brakes were beefy and did not really need upgrading.....
    They are wrong. 8)

    Got to figure out if I can use my 240z suspension with the Toyota 4 piston calipers and figure out what to do for a control arm and maybe use a steering rack
    To do that you'll need to use EVERYTHING from a donor 240Z/280Z, crossmember, rack, struts, LCAs, etc.

    Then you'll need to fab an extension to the steering shaft since you're going from rear-steer to front-steer.

    This will also require swapping your oil pan and pick-up tube for one from a '74-78 B210 (it's rear sump instead of front sump like the B310/210), or just doing the smart thing and dropping in an L20b/5spd. :wink:

    The easiest (and most effective) brake upgrade is '79-83 280ZX struts/brakes. For that you only need the struts/brakes from the donor. :tu:

  10. #10
    Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Atlanta
    Posts
    51
    Quote Originally Posted by datsunfreak
    Quote Originally Posted by Master-O-Turbonics
    Somebody on one of the forums was saying how the 310 brakes were beefy and did not really need upgrading.....
    They are wrong. 8)

    Got to figure out if I can use my 240z suspension with the Toyota 4 piston calipers and figure out what to do for a control arm and maybe use a steering rack
    To do that you'll need to use EVERYTHING from a donor 240Z/280Z, crossmember, rack, struts, LCAs, etc.

    Then you'll need to fab an extension to the steering shaft since you're going from rear-steer to front-steer.

    This will also require swapping your oil pan and pick-up tube for one from a '74-78 B210 (it's rear sump instead of front sump like the B310/210), or just doing the smart thing and dropping in an L20b/5spd. :wink:

    The easiest (and most effective) brake upgrade is '79-83 280ZX struts/brakes. For that you only need the struts/brakes from the donor. :tu:
    Steering stuff is easy...
    The A series will be left in there until I finish my Z22ET motor with ITB's and a Holset. Top end is 85% done and I have all the bottom end parts.. Still need some of the EFI parts...




    theory is, instead of pumping heat of EGR into the chamber, pack heat from lots of air. L series heads suck as far as detonation resistance goes, so I figured I'd give this a shot.

    I have 280zx struts minus the calipers, and 240z struts with bigger brakes. I think I'll swap Z car stuff since I plan on running a track width wider than the mouse width track lol...
    Trying to find a Mustang 8.8 rear end with the Datsun lug bolt pattern and setting it up with the datsun 4 link brackets...

Similar Threads

  1. Rally tires in the US
    By john in forum Resto Tips, Wheels & Other Goodies
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 08-11-2015, 01:41 AM
  2. keep the stock engine or not
    By allgudhuh in forum Toyota Garage
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 05-14-2011, 08:12 AM
  3. Starlet Rally Car
    By Sven7 in forum Toyota Garage
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 01-31-2011, 07:13 PM
  4. Olympus Rally anyone?
    By bajasoobnut in forum Events, Meets & Gatherings
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 04-27-2010, 03:08 AM
  5. This is Rally...
    By bajasoobnut in forum Off-Topic
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 07-18-2009, 10:16 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •