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Thread: Oldeskewltoy's Headshop....

  1. #1
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    Oldeskewltoy's Headshop....

    I debated as to where to put this thread since I've primarily have ported Toyota cylinder heads, but recently I added a Mazda to the mix, and I have my hands on a Nissan CA18DET head that I hope to be dissecting soon... and so I'll make a thread in general discussion... and see if it requires moving.


    For this first post I'll toss up a number of cherry picked photos so you can get an overall view of what I do. I follow that post with a 2nd showing my current active porting job and follow up with it, and all future jobs in this thread.

    So let me introduce to you....

    my "headshop"




    my flowbench




    some custom made testing equipment






    A few views at recent jobs...










    Not just 4AGE... here is a 7MG head on the flowbench




    and work progress on the same head

    5 chambers reshaped, one to go...











    It isn't just Toyota's, here is a Mazda/Ford 2.2 liter head...

    Cylinders 1 and 2...


    followed by 3 and 4.




    and its going to be used with CONSIDERABLE boost..





    More to come....... :mrgreen:

  2. #2
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    Re: Oldeskewltoy's Headshop....




    OST-026 will be a fully ported smallport head. To see the car build this head will be part of - http://club4ag.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=1486


    I'm still trying to source smallport heads... (got any?? . . . send me a PM) so since I couldn't scrounge one up, this one came out of deep dark storage....









    A few more pics...

    prior to dis-assembly....




    and after....




    Still kinda nasty.... but the cam journals show no gouging... :thumbsup:


    an intake view...





    and one of the exhaust





    By the way, this is an uncut head...






    More to come..... :mrgreen:

  3. #3
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    Re: Oldeskewltoy's Headshop....

    I got the head back from it being cleaned... even a good cleaning makes it look better...


    Chambers....




    exhaust ports...



    These look pretty good... there is enough meat on the port roofs to allow me to get a good shape to them.


    intake ports...




    Lets look at those intake short radius's.... (1 on right, 4 on left)





    Hmmm, and on closer inspection...

    cyl 1...


    cyl 2...


    cyl 3...


    cyl 4...




    I'll be earning my fee on those....... :lol:


    More to come..... :mrgreen:

  4. #4
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    Re: Oldeskewltoy's Headshop....

    The work looks top notch. Keep it up.

  5. #5
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    Re: Oldeskewltoy's Headshop....

    Quote Originally Posted by migz808
    The work looks top notch. Keep it up.
    Thanks... I try, sometimes the heads are easier... and sometimes tougher....


    Well... the first task for me is always deburring the head. I do this first for a simple reason... I'll be handling this head quite a bit, and if I remove all the casting flash, and machined edge sharpness, I'll be doing my hands a big favor.....


    Below are a couple of 2 panel, before and after of the deburring process.



    Above is the last four bucket cylinders, and last 2 cam journals (#4 and #5) on the exhaust side of the engine.


    And here are the first 4 bucket cylinders and cam journals #2 and #3 for the intake cam




    More to come..... :mrgreen:

  6. #6
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    Re: Oldeskewltoy's Headshop....

    Quote Originally Posted by oldeskewltoy

    Hmmm, and on closer inspection...

    cyl 1...


    cyl 2...


    cyl 3...


    cyl 4...


    So... any opinions as to which one is the worst???

  7. #7
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    Re: Oldeskewltoy's Headshop....

    Quote Originally Posted by from another forum
    Hmm. Number 3 looks to be worst from the photos but just becasue of that I'm going to say number 2
    Reminds me (your indecision) of an old "Let's Make a Deal" (Monty Hall era)....



    "Well, contestant, your first instinct was correct, you should have stuck with chamber #3........"

    "oh Monty..."


    The reason I chose #3 was the factory machining mark came right to the edge of the seat, it had a big nasty under cut in the port floor, and the splitter was poorly machined covering a big part of the seat.



    Besides the bowl work... can anyone tell me what else I did that isn't inside the bowls?



    Once I managed to get the bowls, and short radius worked out, it was time to begin the port work...



    Look past the short radius, into the port. The left side has been reshaped, note the light line from port face to the guide. The right side I've not yet touched, and you can see the "pocket" in front of the guide that I have yet to "excavate"





    All the rough work has been finished on the left(#3), you can see the bowl walls are beginning to blend into the port, the bowls, seats and ports on the right(#2) are still untouched.


    Quote Originally Posted by oldeskewltoy
    I'll be earning my fee on those....... :lol:

    nearly 6 hours worth of work on #3's seats, bowls, and port.



    More to come..... :mrgreen:

  8. #8
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    Re: Oldeskewltoy's Headshop....

    Quote Originally Posted by from another forum
    Looks great, thanks for the pictures and the nice explanations!
    I try... besides, I enjoy doing it


    Quote Originally Posted by from another forum
    Amazing work....
    You make me blush...

    Quote Originally Posted by from another forum
    Besides the bowl work... can anyone tell me what else I did that isn't inside the bowls?
    I spot a deburred/smoothed edge to the sparkplug hole.
    correct! You can see it again in chamber 4 below


    And here are the short radius's of intake 4, as above... before on top





    Besides the short radius's, I'm also working the intake ports themselves. intake port 4 in mid "excavation"






    and after roughing to size... a bit more work left....







    another OST 2 panel... 2 down... 2 to go





    One of the problems with the 16V 4AGE design is the ports are horizontal. Being horizontal, the air/fuel charge must make a pretty significant turn to reach the back of the valve. In the diagram below you can see what I'm talking about



    Both the newer 4AF/7AF port, and the Formula One port are NOT horizontal, this allows for more cylinder filling, and therefore more power potential.

    I borrowed the 4AG part of that diagram, enlarged it, and in typical OST fashion I've created a 2 panel that hopefully will show why I work the port roof.... In essence, I've adjusted the port roof a few degrees, this will assist the air/fuel charge to have an easier time making the bend, because adjusting the port roof the way I have is allowing the air/fuel charge to have a shallower angle to get to the valve... only a few degrees... but it all helps!




    Now, away from diagrams and to real life....








    More to come...... :mrgreen:

  9. #9
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    Re: Oldeskewltoy's Headshop....

    Well the next piece to the puzzle arrived today.... a T3 smallport ITB adapter



    Overall it came in good condition... although those 2 scratches in the far left flange... I have no idea how they got there... but they are just surface scratches, gaskets will seal that perfectly.



    A 2 panel showing the manifolds fitment on the head...




    The adapter WILL NEED some OST special attention... I will need to modify the manifold a bit by adding small set screws to the end mounting points so the fit is perfect...

    By the way... which of the two above views do I want to set the manifold too?? (top view is correct, or bottom view is correct?)


    Besides the addition of "jack screws", the manifold needs the machining marks blended, and, potentially, the opening changed to accommodate blacktop ITBs.

    Personally... I think silvertop throttles are more than adequate to make power... and keep up the air velocity


    More to come...... :mrgreen:

  10. #10
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    Re: Oldeskewltoy's Headshop....

    Quote Originally Posted by from another forum
    Top view is correct. The roof is connected with the adaptor correct to allow the airflow flow without big restrictions.

    Is that correct?
    I'm not sure you have it, I believe(not sure by how you described it) your visual is perceiving it correctly... but you don't quite have the grasp on what you see. First, the views are upside down... the top of each photo is actually the floor of the port.

    So if you were going for roof alignment, then the choice was the bottom one... but this is a highly technical question.... and it somewhat refers back to changing the port roof angle. The VERY LAST thing I want to touch is any ports floor just before it bends to the valve. So if I position the manifold to the very bottom edge of the port, and hold that as my constant, I can then add a bit more angle to the port roof by matching the port to the manifolds roof. So the top view is correct, but because by placing it that way I can further increase the port roof angle....

    and to paraphrase Margaret Stewart.... , "and that's a good thing"


    A hint... before you look at anything of mine describing ports/bowls/valves... always look for the cues that tell you if it is port/bowls/valves up, or down


    The 4 manifold/port/bowls...


    #1




    #2




    These will be my controls... Since this is the first time I've worked an ITB manifold and the matching head.

    #3




    #4




    note how all of them, even the 2 ports mostly shaped... can still benefit for a bit more removed from the roof...



    It is also more than it appears...





    So besides now being able to further raise the roof, I also need to shape the inside of the itb manifold too







    The T3 manifold has a mild slope built into them, the round boring, which is also the mounting face of the ITB, is @ a shallow angle, while the manifold boring is horizontal, similar to the head. Where these two bored holes meet will also be ported...





    The floors machined edge will get blended to minimize air disturbance directly behind the throttle plates.... I'm also working on a way to minimize those vacuum ports....



    Quote Originally Posted by other person in forum above
    I'm wondering what will turn out of this, because I've done the same thing (smallport head, T3 adapter, Blacktop 45mm ITBs) last year, with the same ideas, and I had to remove a "half kg" of aluminium from the head to look like something good flowing thing. What cams will you(costumer) use for this setup, with what C/R ?

    Cams... Toda 272 9.00mm lift... 1SZ buckets.... I've advised... the client to purchase a set of silvertop throttles... the blacktop throttles are unnecessary

    I'm only doing the head work... but I'm advising a 4-4.25cc piston dome, as flat as possible... made for STANDARD valves... NOT OVERSIZE.(will provide a static CR between 11.9 and 12.9 depending on his choice of chamber volume (36cc down to 33cc) Final squish should be .9mm(.035"), deck and gaskets is by choice as long as squish gets to .035" and no less!


    More to come..... :mrgreen:

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