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Thread: "Project Turquoise" KE20 build

  1. #1
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    "Project Turquoise" KE20 build

    Well, here I go!

    Here's my little 1974 peanut...





    Body wise, it's pretty neat, only holes are in the rockers...




    And I need to correct a past repair on the front driver fender for it to fit perfectly


    So overall, it's pretty decent. There is a couple of bubble starting to appear here and there, but nothing rotten. I should be able to get away with local repair and local paint blended with the original. That fact that it is blue, it has resisted fadding quite a lot and the paint still looks pretty decent.

    Apart from that, the engine bay is somewhat clean (and comes with a nice strut tower brace)...



    ...and you guys better get use to seeing the little teeny tiny 3K-C that's between the strut towers because I have no intensions of swapping it out


    It has a front ADDCO sway bar....



    ...and a rear



    Inside is pretty decent...




    And I even carried my old steering wheel from my TE31. I also have a 3 mecanical gauge pod that fits like a glove in the original ashtray hole, so no puzzle with that!


    What's worst with the car is the floor




    I really believe that it wasn't worst that that before the repair... luckily, there is no rot or hole, but there is a lot of surface rust inside and out, so I'll need to take care of that fast before it really gets ugly. Both frame rail by the tranny need to be restored, but I have already done that to my old TE31... like they say : been there, done that... even got the t-shirt!

    And there is little rust under the driver fender, on the support and the lower rad support is shot, but one again, nothing visible so it's a good thing for the paint.


    The car currently has a 4 speed K40 tranny, but it came with a 5 speed K50... (nice difference next to the W40... and I'm not even talking about weight 49lbs vs 95lbs)




    The problem is : the dude who sold me the car was probably unaware that cast alloy piece are not strong and if the holes are not aligned, it's not a good thing to torque the bolt to try to force it...



    But it was in need of a rebuild, some of the bearing inside are a little noisy and the yoke bushing is not in good shape... so it'll probably turn out as my winter project!


    Now for the plan on this thing...

    First, the car is a non-runner because one of the front hub is shot and the bearing race are screwed (probably due to the last owner's failure to change bearing before they rip apart and take out everything with them. Luckily, I have a complet AE86 TRD front suspension that was supposed to go on my last project and never made it...

    Shorten tube, TRD green shock and 6kg TRD coil, Polyurethane Bushing... along with the AE86 brakes, 9 1/4" veted to replace the 8" solid one, and freshly rebuilded calipers to go with them... forgot to take pictures






    I have found a set of AE86 hub and steering knuckles since none of the KE stuff works... all that's missing is some RCA and I'll probably get a set of bushing adapters for the balljoint to be able to fit hte AE knuckles on the KE balljoint instead of trying to press a bigger balljoint in the KE LCA.

    By doing that, I'll change the bolt pattern from 4x110 to 4x4.5... so I'll need to do something about the rear. The plan is to ditch the stock 5.7" or 6" rear for a 6.38" S diff... why?

    Because I already have those (bearing, brakes and all)


    That will upgrade my rear brakes from 8" to 9" drums to follow the front mod.

    But their is one hell of a big reason why I didn't sale all of those things and bought back new bearing and brake for the small KE axle...





    Yeah, that's a uber rare brand new in box TRD LSD for the 6.38" S diff... if I could find someone willing to trade a 6" TRD LSD for that one, I'd probably keep the KE diff and either redrill the axles to match the AE86 bolt pattern or locate some KE30 axles, but in reality, the 6" TRD LSD is probably as hard to find as the 6.38"...

    So I ave also located an early S diff that I'll rebuild with all the piece above, I also have whiteline poly bushing to go with it and a pair of those





    After all that is done, the plan is to fix the car's floor and other rust that's on it, including the frame rails... I've been through all of this on my TE31 so I have a pretty nice idea of what's to expect.

    For the engine/tranny :

    I'll start by fixing the K50's extension housing I have here and inspecting the tranny / rebuild what's out of specs.

    So there is no plan to swap out the little mill form out of there. The rest is really really really unsure right now, but I'm starting to get some kind of a plan which is...

    First, I have this mystery cam that came with the car




    According to the interwebz, that code is for an aftermarket cam for an Opel CIH engine, ENEM is a scandinavian (or somewhere close) company that make those cam. But it's not an Opel CIH cam, definatly a toyota K cam so I'm thinking it must be a regrind following those specs which are :

    Seat to seat dur 308
    came lobe spacing 108
    lift : 11.8mm (with the opel rocker arm ratio... I have no idea how it compares to the 3K)

    I also have this...



    4AGE silvertop intake manifold gathering dust in the basement for the last 5 or 6 years... along with a MS 1 or 2, can't remember...


    So the plan might to put both in used on that little engine... milling the block and head and going a little oversize to achieve higher compression ratio. For the management, the plan is to KISS. I plan on using a stock distributor (or an electronic form a 4K) for spark timing and a fuel management with no feedback using the MS I already have : MAP, TPS, IAT, ECT. That's it. No idle stepper or IAC, I'll just modify the linkage so the stock choke cable cracks open the throttle to get a fast idle and I will adjust idle by using throttle stopper screw. I'll only need a little adapter manifold between the head and the throttles of the silvertop manifold. I'll ditch the stock lower manifold with vaccum ports, fuel rail and injectors in order to make some rooms (because there is not a lot between the engine and the strut tower. So I'll need use the ports that are on the throttle bodies for a vaccum signal and to run the vaccum advance on the dist... since the car has no power brake, the only other vaccum that I'll need is the PCV. Also, in order to keep things simple, I'll probably use a set of standoff injectors mounted in the velo stack. I'll have the luxury to mount them deep i the stacks because those 42mm TB are already way to big for the little engine so the injectors will not create to much restriction and that will be a little safer since the exhaust manifold is sitting right under there... but that will mean I can use a standard fuel rail form almost any 4 cyl DOHC car and just modify the mounting poits instead of having to fab one for the weird intake port spacing of the 3K and I'll save the hassle to make injector bung and mounting holes on my adapater manifold (made from scratch) and having to machine all this.

    I think that's about it...

    Feel free to post some feedback... oh and I don't care the the 3K is more suited as a boat anchor than a car engine... the engine/tranny combo weight the same as a 4AG long block and if I can get 100hp out of that thing, it'll be more than enough to get the "sub 800kg light as a coke bottle" shell some get up and go... it won't be fast, but it'll be fun... and should be nimble and nicely balanced.

  2. #2
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    Re: "Project Turquoise" KE20 build

    High five for sticking to your guns and building something different, engine-wise. :tu: I hope you don't change the body too much, the car looks perfect to me!

  3. #3
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    Re: "Project Turquoise" KE20 build

    Thx!

    Body will stay like that, without the rust lol : original Turquoise metallic with the valance and hood satin black and the TE grill that is already on it, the rest will stay as original as possible. It will also gain a rear 71-73 skinny bumper as soon as I find one not to far away and the wheels will have to be changed because of the change in bolt pattern... sadly, but I'll try to get something similair since they really go with the car well.

  4. #4
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    Re: "Project Turquoise" KE20 build

    This is going to be good :tu:

  5. #5
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    Re: "Project Turquoise" KE20 build

    Just wondering if you know the paint code?

  6. #6
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    Re: "Project Turquoise" KE20 build

    715 turquoise metallic... kind of inspired the thread name

  7. #7
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    Re: "Project Turquoise" KE20 build

    Sounds very fun, and light.

  8. #8
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    Re: "Project Turquoise" KE20 build

    Quote Originally Posted by Skellington
    Sounds very fun, and light.
    Fun is the plan...

    Light... 824kg (1817lbs) is what's written on my registration papers but that's accounting for the '74 massive "park bench" bumpers that must weight at least 30lbs each of not more... so it must hover under the 800kg mark (1764lbs). That's pretty light for a FR car if you ask me

    As for a quick update, nothing has been done on the suspension yet but I have sourced all the parts I needed to complete the swap to AE86 front and 6.38" rear... I just need to get going on this. It will probably gain a few extra pound from this but hey, upgrading the brakes from the tiny 8inch solid disk and 8" drum to 9 1/4" vented disk and 9" drum should make quite a difference... and I'm not even talking about the TRD LSD

    To be continued...

  9. #9
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    Re: "Project Turquoise" KE20 build

    Quote Originally Posted by Tommy
    Light... 824kg (1817lbs) is what's written on my registration papers but that's accounting for the '74 massive "park bench" bumpers that must weight at least 30lbs each of not more... so it must hover under the 800kg mark (1764lbs). That's pretty light for a FR car if you ask me
    Pretty light for ANY car if you ask me! Should be a screamer with anything torquier than a dwarf hamster powering it.

  10. #10
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    Re: "Project Turquoise" KE20 build

    Wow, what a month! Honestly, I haven't been busy like that in a long time... I had almost no time to work on the peanut.

    Since I am swapping a whole AE86 front suspension, I needed to find a way of bolting it down. Let me explain...

    The KE lower strut bolt spacing is 80mm and the AE86 is 85 so I need some way of bolting my strut on some kind of knuckles. The AE86 knuckle wouldn't fit since the AE uses a bigger balljoint and the AE baljoint is too big to be pressed in the KE LCA. The LCA itself is 30mm longer on the KE so I'd have to modify a AE86 LCA for the front track to stay close to stock.

    The easiest way was to get some AE86 knuckles with the 85mm lower bolt spacing and use an adapter bushing to fit over my small balljoint to bolt it on. The problem is that even power steering knuckles are a little longer than the stock KE20 knuckles so it makes up for slower steering... so I went that route since AE86 knuckles are readily available. Their is one other alternative : the TE27 uses the same length knuckles and has the same small balljoint as the KE but it has the same 85mm bolt spacing as the AE... but they are rare.

    So after cleaning and painting AE86 PS knuckle, someone came to me with TE27 knuckle he found in a box in his garage... so I'll use those!

    AE86 P/S in black, TE27 in grey..


    Apart from that, all the front suspension has been painted. Calipers are back together, even the pads are in. Bearing have been pressed in the hubs along with the seals. Tomorrow I'll go grab some new bolts to throw everything back together... would've been stupid to mount all that nicely painted stock with rusted bolts. So I should be able to bolt everything back soon enough... maybe have slap eveything on the car this weekend... depending on the weather.

    Then last sunday a member from a local forum dropped by on his way to Ottawa and dump his old TE21 rims with crappy tires. I didn't have anything 4x114.3 at home but now I can use those wheels to drop the car back on it's wheels after the suspension swap. That will give me some time to unmount tire on my Enkei and sell them to a fellow RX7 driver... so I can buy the 14x7 Watanabe from my friend.

    Oh and the plans for the engine have changed! I bought a ski-doo engine from a friend for about the price of the gas it cost him to deliver it to me and the beer it cost to pull it out lol





    It's an old bluetop that the last owner wasn't able to blow even while beating on it sideways every week. I had the "chance" to follow him a couple of times lately and that thing smoked more than an old Skandic on his last stretch, it smells "2 stroke" like nothing! Cyl 1, 2 and 3 have 180psi but the forth is pushing a big 70... So I grabbed the whole swap, missing only a RWD waterpump, alternator, flywheel/clutch and a T50... but I have 3 sets of cams, 2 complete bigport head, and about enough pieces to build a second engine

    So te plan is to rebuild it to OEM specs. Clean up the casting in the ports, polish the combustion chambers, deshroud the valves and balance the whole rotating assembly. So I'm waiting to open it up to find out if it'll stay 1587cc or if the cylinder walls are fubar and I'll have to go 1607 with 20over pistons. In an ideal world, it'll only need a hone and new rings, but we don't live in an ideal world...

    The idea behind all this is to drop a stock bluetop that will make more power than the objectives I had for the 3K but that will make it with OEM Toyota reliability... and for 1/2 the price . I know, it's not original but at least it's not a F20, BEAMS or 20v... it still looks like and old crapy engine from an other era.

    So that's it, the K50 rebuilder planned for this winter is out the window... replaced by a 4A rebuild!

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