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Thread: 7T7 Repu - Build

  1. #1
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    7T7 Repu - Build

    Here is my build thread of my 1977 REPU. I picked up this REPU from Chad on the forum in February of this year. I picked it up in TN just from pictures provide by Chad, I can honestly say he described it perfect, great seller. Great truck, ran fine and basically rust free with the exception of a couple of rust spots here and there, mostly surface rust. The truck did not stop for shit ahahahhaha. I will let the pics speak for themselves but if you have any specific questions on anything feel free to ask. Also, I am no photographer, in fact, I hate taking pictures. All pics were taken with my phone.
    Many friends have helped in this build and a thanks goes out to all my Rotary Brothers that have helped me! Joe, Jorge, Chris and Luis. BIG Thanks to Joe for most of the help and Jorge for supplying plenty of Miller Light.

    This is my first introduction to the REPU.
    Chad and I going over the truck.






    Engine





    Interior




    All loaded up and ready to make the trip to FL





  2. #2
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    Re: 7T7 REPU - BUILD

    First thing I did when I got home was bleed the brakes and drove it the entire weekend. Put over 100 miles on her but the brakes needed more than bleeding so the tear down began:
    Front brakes




    Rear Drums – The culprit for my braking issues





    The tear down process begins:








  3. #3
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    Re: 7T7 REPU - BUILD

    On the flat bed and of to PAINT!











  4. #4
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    Re: 7T7 REPU - BUILD

    Finally some color going down








    Color is from a 2012 Ford Taurus but it’s my understanding that you can get it on any Ford as long as you order it that way. Buddy’s wife has it on her car. It’s called White Platinum Metallic Tri Coat. It’s got what looks like to be gold and blue pearl in it. Looks really pretty nice in the sun.






    The sticker was made by taking the original and having it outlined in blue. I did not want solid letters. Had a friend make me the outline and it was applied prior to clear coat. Pretty nerve racking to install the sticker on fresh paint knowing if you screw it up, your re-painting the tail gate. Luckily I got it right the first time.






  5. #5
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    Re: 7T7 REPU - BUILD

    Finally home from paint. Ready for Assembly.








    Every bushing was replaced on the truck. New idler arm. New tie rod ends with greasable fittings installed. New sway bar links, etc etc.










  6. #6
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    Re: 7T7 REPU - BUILD

    Juan from the rx7club forum was kind enough to source some Superpro rear leaf spring bushings. All six rear bushings were replaced with new ones.





    Part of my replacing all the bushing was the task of replacing the drag link. They no longer make the drag link for the Courier of the REPU so I learned from the REPU forums that the popular fix to this is purchasing the drag link from a Mazda B2000 and making it a bit longer. Here is a pic of the original and the new modified drag link.





    As stated before the truck drove fine but it did not like to stop. Installed new master cylinder and new brakes. I got the idea on the brakes from RotaryDave. He was helpful in answering some of my questions. Ordered the brakes from Aerospace components. Aerospace is a top notch company and helped me out tremendously, especially on the parking brake in the rear.










    Front finally done and back on the ground, wheels are from the FD, just temporary



  7. #7
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    Re: 7T7 REPU - BUILD

    Picked up new (to me) 8.8 rear end from a Ford explorer. New clutch packs installed, new axles, new bearing kit and cool cover was installed. Anything above 1995 came with disk brakes in the back. This was to make the rear disk brake installation easier, well it wasn’t. Apparently there are two types of 8.8’s. One is known as BIG FORD (New Style) and the other is just a regular ford 8.8. I somehow got a mix of both. Got the flange PCD of a ford 8.8 and the center bore diameter of the BIG FORD style. Needless to say, it made it for an interesting design of the rear parking brakes. Nevertheless, Aerospace worked with me and got me the rear brakes.










    Wanted to remain stock with the engine as this is going to be a cruiser so I just dressed the engine bay up a bit. No real power adders to look at. Clean up the fuel system and intake manifold. Re-built the carb and added headers. Nothing much to report here.





  8. #8
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    Re: 7T7 REPU - BUILD

    As you can see from the above pics I bought a Rotary Works Gilmer Drive pulley set. It did not last too long and nothing fit properly. I had to alter every pulley to get them to fit (All three). Took about three hours to install pulleys on a motor that was on the engine stand!!!!!! When I started the truck up, the main alternator pulley started to come apart. The reason why is below, you can see the difference in thinkness of the actual center bore. I have seen these pulleys successfully used on may cars but it did not work for me.





    Ordered the real Gilmer Pulleys from Australia and while I was at it, ordered an alternator relocation kit. Not sure I like the alternator in this location. When I install AC, I can always relocate the alternator back to its original position.






    Bought a really cool coolant overflow tank from Aerospace and it sits right next to the windshield washer fluid tank. I tried to clean the windshield washer tank but it just did not compare to the coolant overflow tank. Looked all over and could not find it new so I had one made out of aluminum…..yes I know, its overkill for its purpose but it’s cool nonetheless.







    Radiator from Rotary Works from a second gen was used. Copied RotaryDave and his build. Also copied the Scirocco style fans. THANKS for the ideas Dave. Had some new braces made for the radiator and for the fans. Everything came out really nice.






  9. #9
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    Re: 7T7 REPU - BUILD

    Installed the Oil Cooler directly to the bottom of the radiator. When I installed the front valance I realized that the oil cooler was directly behind the front bumper. DAMIT! Not that I will be racing this thing on the track but nonetheless, I wanted to get proper air flow to the oil cooler. Made some supports to lower the oil cooler. Did not want them to be rigid so I used some old rubber bushings I had laying around.






    I knew that I would not be using the belt driven fans anymore so the electrical system was upgraded….well kind of upgraded. I removed all the excess emission wires that were not required. S4 internally regulated dizzy was in the truck so out went the external regulator and all of its associated wiring. I used a stock FD fuse box for all of the constant power connections and used a FC Fuse box for all the switched power. This was a huge pain in the ASS, because I hate wiring and electrical.







  10. #10
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    Re: 7T7 REPU - BUILD









    Interior was cleaned out and dynamat installed throughout the interior, doors and behind the dash.






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