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1996 na8c mx-5

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  • #76
    Originally posted by Eeyore View Post
    This is one of the nicest NA MX5's I've ever seen. My brother has a NA8 Clubman so I have a soft spot for them. Great write up too! I will have to go back over it in more depth as it's just too epic!
    Oh awesome! Thanks for the kind words mate!

    Originally posted by KiKiIchiBan View Post
    Very nice MX5
    Cheers bud!

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    • #77
      Thanks for your message last month Steve. I've now had a good look at this MX5 and agree it is superb and very tastefully enhanced. I'm all over you on IG and will hope to see it/you on the streets of Sydney soon!

      Comment


      • #78
        Originally posted by BunsenBurna View Post
        Thanks for your message last month Steve. I've now had a good look at this MX5 and agree it is superb and very tastefully enhanced. I'm all over you on IG and will hope to see it/you on the streets of Sydney soon!

        Cheers mate! Big fan of your FC as I already mentioned in your thread! Hope to see it/you in the streets of Sydney soon too! Maybe we should tee something up

        Comment


        • #79
          When I took delivery of my MX-5, I considered myself extremely lucky to have purchased one which was straight, unmodified, original and very clean. In fact, it was probably the cleanest one I had seen in person. However, given that the car is now 21 years old, things will naturally start to wear and will eventually need replacing no matter how clean the car may seem. One of these things would be the HVAC system.

          Recently purchased a good second hand NB heater core and the heater core housing assembly from MX-5 Mania. It was a little dusty and dirty but overall in great condition. The housing assembly is the same for both the NA and NB and is a direct bolt on affair but the NB MX-5's had the aluminium heater cores compared to the copper ones that the NA's received. A few benefits of the NB aluminium heater core are that they have removable, stronger metal hoses as they detach at the base of the heater core itself whereas the NA's copper heater cores were one unit, pipes and all. This means that theoretically you wouldn't need to remove your dash to change the heater core should it fail later on as you can just take the core out from the housing assembly, replace it with a new aluminium core and just re-use the pipes (however, I'd still probably take it all out just to be sure even if it may be a pain in the ass to do. Good opportunity for a clean). Also, the ends of the NA heater core pipes are copper and are quite soft, which means they can bend easily and get damaged which may result in coolant leaks.

          I took this opportunity to give the housing assembly a good clean, wiping off all the dust, dirt and bits of nature it had accumulated during its time. I also got rid of the brittle old foam from the flaps and the assembly surround, cleaned the adhesive residue it left behind and replaced it with brand new foam. It came up very nicely if I do say so myself. Looking at how dirty this was, I can only imagine just how filthy the current one is. Although it's currently working fine and nothing is leaking, for the time being I might circulate some water through my existing heater core to flush out any grime and gunk.

          The dash will have to come out for me to install this full assembly with the new NB heater core but I will be installing it together with my A/C retrofit when the time comes. Since the dash is going to come out, it will also give rise to other things which I will be doing at the same time such as thermal insulation/sound deadening in the chassis, giving the carpets some treatment, fixing and cleaning up any loose wiring and sanding and painting the metal dash bar as it will most likely have surface rust.

          NB Heater core and housing assembly. Notice the amount of crap accumulated behind the mesh.



          NB heater core metal pipes.





          Foam inside the assembly. You can see that it has started to deteriorate. When you run your fingers through the foam it flakes off. Time to replace it!



          Closeup of the mesh and the bits of leaves and other crap.



          The brown foam needs replacing. The surrounding foam could also do with a refresh.





          Surrounding foam removed.



          Dirty mesh filter. Some hot soapy water was needed to clean this. Before...



          ...and after. Much better!



          Old foam removed and ready for the new foam.



          Surrounds and flaps re-foamed. Mesh filter and housing assembly all cleaned.



          Close up of new foam for the flaps and surrounds.







          Ready to install.





          Last edited by BRGNA8; 07-08-2017, 05:46 AM.

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          • #80
            Recently, I was asked by "Club Torque" (a quarterly magazine of the Mazda MX-5 Club of NSW) if they could use the sunrise photo I took last month at Palm Beach as the cover for their 2017 summer edition. I happily obliged and I think it came out great!

            The magazine is both printed on high quality gloss paper and available online in PDF format and it has the latest reports on club events such as meets, drive days, social events, motorsports as well as media releases, tech tips, etc. The online version can be found here :

            http://nsw.mx5.com.au/club-zone/magazine

            Many thanks to Mel Keller, editor of the magazine.

            Last edited by BRGNA8; 07-08-2017, 05:47 AM.

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            • #81
              I decided to replace the rear tail lamp gaskets. The gaskets for these tail lamps become brittle and can fail over time simply due to age which would compromise the seal and a failed gasket which isn't sealed properly can mean that water could make its way into the boot, which would then be a breeding ground for rust. Sure enough, the gaskets were old and crusty but it didn't look all that bad. They held up quite well as I've seen far worse. I replaced with OEM parts and it's now good as new for at least the next 20 years.

              Decided to remove the centre number plate garnish as well and give everything a good clean behind there as there would have been a lot of dirt and dust accumulated behind the garnish over time. Removing it was pretty straight forward. Just a couple of 10mm nuts to unscrew and a couple of plastic clips holding the garnish in place. Some warm soapy water, all purpose cleaner and degreaser along with some elbow grease and it came up looking awesome.

              Old OEM gaskets VS new OEM gaskets.



              As you can see, the gasket is still in pretty good condition but it has started to become old and brittle on the left side of the gasket.



              Old passenger side gasket.



              Centre number plate garnish and tail lamps removed. Pretty filthy.



              Some rags, warm soapy water, all purpose cleaner and degreaser and a plastic scraper was used to bring it back to factory fresh condition.



              Fresh and clean, ready for the new gasket.





              Tail lamps were also given a good clean.

              Last edited by BRGNA8; 07-08-2017, 05:48 AM.

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              • #82
                Went for a little drive today since it's been a while that I've had the car out and about due to all the rain we've had over the past month (constant rain/shit weather for the full month of March and the last 2 weeks of February).

                Felt good to just get the car out and drive



                Last edited by BRGNA8; 07-08-2017, 05:48 AM.

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                • #83
                  Late night drives...

                  Last edited by BRGNA8; 07-08-2017, 05:49 AM.

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                  • #84
                    Before.



                    Comparison.



                    After.

                    Last edited by BRGNA8; 07-08-2017, 05:49 AM.

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                    • #85
                      Hi
                      you're NA8 is a gem and looks like you're taking great care of her, so lucky you are. Thank you for keeping us updated with pictures and latest find.
                      sean

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                      • #86
                        28/05/2017

                        Minor Service + Engine Detox + Coolant Hose Replacements
                        Winter is coming...as is the new season of Game of Thrones. But I digress. Autumn will be officially over in a few days and we've been having some gorgeous weather lately, so why not do some DIY before it gets too cold for your hands to do any sort of work on the car?

                        Last time I serviced the car was about seven months ago and although it had only done about 4,500kms since October last year, I decided to do a minor service by changing out the oil and oil filter as well install my Samco silicone coolant hoses. Before I did all this though, I decided to do an engine flush and clean so that it could get rid of any sludge and gunk that the internals may have housed for the past twenty one years. I used some Subaru upper engine cleaner, which contains a foaming agent similar to seafoam that cleans carbon deposits from the induction system and combustion chamber of the engine and I also used LiquiMoly Engine Detox, which is an oil additive that is meant to remove deposits and residues from all internal engine components including the piston rings whereby solid particles and liquid contaminants are isolated and allowed to freely drain with the old engine oil.

                        The upper engine cleaner was the first on the list. Spray half the can into the intake manifold of the car and let it sit for about five minutes or so before turning the car back on. I turned the engine on and sprayed the rest of the can into the manifold while the car was running. Gave it a few revs so that the car wouldn't stall and let it idle and smoke out before going for a short drive to clear out any of the remaining foam in the chamber until the exhaust stopped billowing the white smoke everywhere. It worked quite well I think. Apparently it's meant to give a smoother idle, better acceleration and better fuel economy. Time will tell if this is true or not.

                        Next was the LiquiMoly Engine Detox. This is added to the existing engine oil prior to the oil change. Mine was barely 5,000kms old but have seen oil which was 500kms old with this added and it came out nice and black. Instructions were simple enough again. Pour the whole content of the can in the oil filler hole, turn the car on and let it idle for 20 minutes. Then, drain the oil and replace the oil filter. The oil being drained was pretty black with the additive seemingly doing it's job.

                        I was also going to do a radiator flush but as the coolant was draining from the radiator, it didn't seem like it needed it. The radiator cap was still very clean and no evidence of any grime or sludge on it or the radiator so I decided to leave it for now and do it if and when I actually need to in future.

                        I needed to change my radiator hoses as well. When I first got the car back in late 2015, I decided to do a full major service and as a part of that, change all the old crusty rubber hoses to silicone. I should have went with my gut and bought some Samco silicone hoses but I decided to get a silicone hose kit by Carbon Miata. Big mistake. I always try and live by the mantra "do it once, do it right" and this usually means buying parts which may be considered expensive at the time of purchase but will save money later as what you bought would be a quality part and would very rarely fail and you wouldn't have to keep spending money on the same part by replacing it had you purchased an inferior or non quality part. The Carbon Miata hoses were basically Samco silicone hose copies and as such, they probably weren't produced with the same strict quality controls that I know the Samco ones are adhered to. This lack of QC showed because after running these hoses for just over a year (fourteen months to be exact), the coolant was already eating into the hoses and was failing. When I noticed this (which was about five months ago) I decided to just get some genuine Samco hoses and was ready to replace it all. The Carbon Miata silicone hose kit changes the three large coolant hoses, four smaller coolant auxiliary hoses and the two heater hoses. The three large hoses I changed to genuine Samco silicone hoses and I managed to change two of the four smaller auxiliary coolant hoses to OEM Mazda hoses. These were the throttle body to thermostat housing hose and the thermostat bypass hose. The other two hoses which is located on the intake side (i.e the back of engine to oil cooler hose and oil cooler to throttle body hose) are still the Carbon Miata items but I couldn't access them without taking off the intake manifold so I left it for now. I have the OEM Mazda hose replacement for these two ready to go but it will have to wait for another day.

                        As part of the kit, the Carbon Miata silicone hoses also came with silicone heater hoses (which again, were failing). Like the auxiliary hoses, I decided to revert back to genuine OEM Mazda rubber heater hoses with brand new grommets. The grommets were not changed last time as I didn't have them with me and the ones on the car looked fine, i.e no cracks. This time around though I had new grommets so I decided to change them out. Once I started prying the old ones out, the rubber grommets basically disintegrated as they were quite brittle. I was so glad to be changing them to fresh new OEM parts.
                        Overall, it all went well and the car feels good as ever to drive. It needs a wash as it hasn't had one in about a month so there is a thin layer of dust on the paint. Plan to wash it some time this week before I take it out for a long overdue drive...

                        Subaru upper engine cleaner to clean out the carbon deposits from the induction system and combustion chamber.



                        LiquiMoly Engine Detox. Oil additive meant to remove deposits and residues from all internal engine components including the piston rings whereby solid particles and liquid contaminants are isolated and allowed to freely drain with the old engine oil.



                        4,500km old oil + engine detox solution. Result? Very black.



                        HKS Hybrid oil filter. Replaced this with a genuine OEM Mazda filter. Might go back to HKS in future but honestly, for a road car you won't notice the difference between this and OEM.



                        LiquiMoly Air Flow sensor cleaner. Did a bit of a clean on the MAF whilst the airbox was out.



                        Carbon Miata silicone hose. You can see that the hose started to fail as the coolant was eating into the hose. Who knows how much longer it would have stood up until it split or leaked?



                        Another angle. Should have gone with Samco from the beginning...



                        Glad to be rid of this.



                        Everything off, ready for some OEM Mazda and Samco goodies.



                        Genuine Samco silicone hoses VS Carbon Miata knock off copies.



                        OEM Mazda coolant auxiliary hoses.



                        OEM Mazda heater hoses with grommets.



                        In the bin you go!



                        Old heater hose grommet VS new heater hose grommet.

                        Last edited by BRGNA8; 07-08-2017, 02:10 PM.

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                        • #87
                          12/06/2017

                          Refreshing rear plastic windshield
                          I'll be looking to upgrade my soft top to a Robbins fabric soft top in Tan and a glass rear window but without the demisters (personal preference) in the near future but until then, my current plastic rear windshield has seen better days and was yellowing. Driving with the top up and trying to see who's behind you via the rear view mirror became next to impossible because the windshield was so hazy from the yellowing of the plastic that I couldn't make out much.

                          I bought a can of VuPlex plastic cleaner and polish for about $15.00 and decided to refresh my plastic windshield until I purchase the tan soft top to replace my current one. First you will need to clean the windshield to get rid of any dirt and then once it's a nice clean surface, you just spray the VuPlex, work it in with a microfibre cloth and wipe away. Results speak for themselves really. Cheap and easy.

                          Before. Notice the yellowing and hazing of the plastic.



                          Another angle of the yellowing and hazing.



                          VuPlex plastic cleaner and polish.



                          Clean the windshield first with some glass cleaner or soapy water and rag to lift all the dirt. Then apply the VuPlex. Spray liberally across the plastic. You will need to do this on the inside as well.



                          After. Clear plastic and no more yellow.



                          Another angle. No more yellow.



                          I can finally see what's behind me now when I have the top up.

                          Last edited by BRGNA8; 07-08-2017, 05:52 AM.

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                          • #88
                            24/06/2017

                            Reconditioned Power Window Tracks & Bushings
                            Almost every MX-5 will suffer from the "slow window travel" syndrome at some stage of its life. This is mainly due to the window tracks getting clogged with old gunk being accumulated from the atmosphere overtime and the roller bushings either not functioning as they should due to the excess buildup of gunk or quite simply they have been broken or disintegrated completely.

                            My MX-5 was showing signs of slow windows and I knew it was time that I took the doorcards off and have a closer inspection. I purchased a set of delrin door bushings because I knew that they were going to need replacing. I also got a tube of Shin-Etsu silicone grease, which is a genuine Honda part. The Shin-Etsu grease is a special type of grease that Honda supplied for people who bought the S2000 as it was mainly used for the convertible top seals and window seals. The grease keeps the seals supple and soft and it's been used by others in the MX-5 community on the window tracks with great success. The install was pretty straight forward and taking everything off wasn't too hard as there were a lot of how-to guides and tutorials both on the internet and YouTube.

                            When I did take it off though, the roller bushings weren't in too bad a condition compared to others I have seen on the internet. My driver side bushing was chipped a little bit but the passenger side was fine. The real problem was the window track. There was so much build up of crap in there that it took me over an hour just to thoroughly clean everything. After some time scraping off the gunk, the window tracks were clean and I applied a generous amount of Shin-Etsu grease on the tracks so that everything was well lubricated. Installed everything back and we have perfectly functioning power windows once again.

                            Take off the three bolts which hold the armrest against the doorcard.



                            Pop off the door card (there should be nine clips). Once you take it off, this is what you're presented with.



                            Both doorcards off.



                            Take off the three 8mm bolts holding the door handle.



                            Take these two 10mm bolts off next, which are the window stoppers.



                            Take off these three 10mm screws holding the window to the regulator.



                            Take off the remaining bolts and gently pull out the regulator with the track facing towards you.



                            Close up of the regulator. You can see some buildup of gunk at the top.



                            Both top rail tracks out of the door. Lots of residue which is slowing the bushing down and causing resistance. This means the motor in the regulator has added stress, more than usual to just get the window up. If this continues, it can lead to bigger problems.



                            Love this stuff. Ready to clean the window tracks.



                            Spray with the degreaser and let it sit for approximately 10 minutes.



                            Degreaser doing it's job.



                            Cleaning out the crap from the window tracks.



                            Nice clean tracks.



                            What's left from the original window bushing. The fact that it's still one piece and intact was surprising as I've seen others which have completely disintegrated.



                            Another closeup of the problem bushing.



                            Driver side bushing had a little bit chipped off, but overall it was still intact.



                            T30 torx screwdriver needed to replace the bushing.



                            Comparison of old bushing VS brand new delrin bushing.



                            New VS old.



                            New bushing installed.



                            You can see the bottom part of the window has approximately 21 years worth of dirt and dust accumulated. I couldn't re-install the window without giving it a clean.



                            Cleaned these up too. These are the mounts which attach to the regulator. Soaked them in hot water and soap and cleaned them up.



                            Nice and clean, ready to go.



                            Cleaned the regulator tracks as well.



                            Applying the Shin-Etsu grease to the window tracks. Be generous with the grease.



                            This eventually ended up being too much for these two tracks but I used the excess and greased up the passenger side track on the regulator.



                            Apply a little bit of the grease on the A-pillar rubber channel.



                            Gave the door a clean with hot soapy water to get rid of any dirt and dust before applying the plastic shield.



                            Plastic shield back on. Just need to put the doorcards back on and we're done.



                            Video of the faster power windows in action.

                            Last edited by BRGNA8; 07-08-2017, 05:55 AM.

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                            • #89
                              25/06/2017

                              Sunday morning drive through some B-roads, top down, gloves on, perfect clear blue skies, chasing an NSX...



                              Choices : Drive the NA or drive the NA?

                              Last edited by BRGNA8; 07-08-2017, 05:56 AM.

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                              • #90
                                02/07/2017

                                Crisp and sunny Sunday morning. Couple of photos taken by a friend of mine before going on a drive. I think the next free weekend I have, a full wash, clay, wax, polish and paint correction is in order...













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