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  • Mazda VC or MA

    Hi guys; I'm new to this forum.
    I am restoring a '75 Capella and need to start engine work soon. It's imperative to me that the car stays era correct so engine swaps are out of the question.
    I messed around with a VC many years ago when I was still an apprentice: high compression 81mm F6 pistons specially pocketed and converted to free floating, lightened and balanced bottom end, milled 1mm off head, 2mm off block, 1 link of timing chain removed, bigger ports, high lift cam, twin 40mm Webers etc.
    Bar blowing a few head gaskets(this was sorted out eventually) it went very well.

    I have no experience with the MA as they're very scarce over here, but I can get my hands on one now;

    What are the performance advantages of the MA over the VC?
    Do they still rev well enough? I know the stroke is 10mm longer
    Is it worth the effort for the extra 200cc?

    Thanks
    Mazda nut
    South Africa
    Last edited by Hiroshima; 02-19-2017, 01:59 AM.

  • #2
    its the same engine, like you said, just a longer stroke. i worked one when i was young in a 626 coupe, had a webber carb, cam etc. I won't say it went good, as i now realise that it didn't.

    Have you considered an old style draw through carry turbo set up? that would bring it to life.

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    • #3
      Something like this... it really woke this asthmatic 2lt up!
      Attached Files
      http://i1139.photobucket.com/albums/...psogb7uf9t.jpg

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      • #4
        The 1600 is a better engine, if you are going to modify it like your original engine. This engine actually doesn't mind being revved but, at the end of the day, will still blow head gaskets. The MA has no advantage over the VC except for minor torque improvements. That is it unfortunately.

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        • #5
          Thanks for the input guys - much appreciated.
          I'd prefer to go naturally aspirated or I might as well fit a FE3 etc. Very nice turbo conversion there. Did you have any other mechanical challenges i.e. head gaskets etc? How much hp she making? Even approximately?
          My VC also blew head gaskets, but in all fairness I was running 12:1 compression ratio. I eventually got advice from an old mechanic journeyman of mine who suggested I spray the cylinder head gasket with a Corium copper spray product, leave it overnight and then torque it down. I tried it only because I was at my wits end - long story short...problem solved! But I'm going to have a copper head gasket made this time around.
          I found these engines wake up with high compression ratios, but leads to the head gasket problem...

          Anyway basically I shouldn't waste my time on an MA and just build a VC ...?
          Last edited by Hiroshima; 02-20-2017, 07:09 PM.

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          • #6
            Are you sure you don't want to convert to a 2.0L fe3n 16 valve?? I'm converting my 1972 Luce to 2.0L fe3n with twin sidedraft 45mm webers instead of fuel injection. I want the engine to look period but be fast enough to trackday with. I bought the intake from an outfit in SA.
            I've modified a lot of the old VB series engines and the port/combustion chamber/ rockerarm design (as well as bottom end design) really limits horsepower. Maximum reliable hp from a naturally aspirated VB-VC-MA series engine is 125-135 tops. Anything more than that and you run into excessive rockerarm wear from modern cam designs. The 2.0L 16v with just bolt ons is close to 180 on pump gas. The earlier comment about the 1600 is correct....... the cylinder head can flow enough in the smaller displacement to at least "feel" like it's fast...
            Last edited by Olycarguy; 02-22-2017, 04:45 PM.

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            • #7
              I must be honest I'm warming to the idea, but I'm not keen on it. Yes the FE3s are freely available over here and you can buy a bellhousing which bolts straight up to a 21R Toyota gearbox, but I so much want to keep things original in the engine bay bar a few performance bumps.
              For me 100 to 110kW is fine; it must be reliable and period correct.
              I also have a complete Mitsubishi 4654 2.6 engine and gearbox, but this will take away from the originality when you open the bonnet.
              I'll let you know what I decide - need to get my head around engine swaps if I decide to do it.
              PS. For some reason I can't upload pics here

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              • #8
                If I could make a suggestion, go to mazdatrucking.com and look at the swap section. There's a sticky on the Kia Sportage 2.0L (Mazda fe3n 16v) engine swap. Everything you need to get inspired.

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                • #9

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                  • #10
                    Thanks mate and thanks to all for your input.
                    I'll be in touch wrt progress

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                    • #11
                      Does anyone have a copy of 1.8 VC engine workshop manual?

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                      • #12
                        pretty cheap on ebay

                        http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MAZDA-929...AAAOSw4DJYmcMT

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                        • #13
                          download link for that, valid for 7 days
                          https://we.tl/ETY07PP1mn

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                          • #14
                            kv77 Thank you so much for this.

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                            • #15
                              I have had experience with all 3 of the engines mentioned- 1600 NA, 1800 VC and the MA 2L. some differences are the height of the cylinder block of the MA compared to the others, may restrict your ability to use factory air cleaner as I found with my 616 when I dropped an MA in there. Engine mounts and sump also need changing. The 1800 VC is the worst of the bunch, it only has 5 bolt crank/Flywheel and runs rougher than the other 2. MA also has round exhaust ports on some models so your VC manifold wont match. MA has much larger front casing and water pump too, one reason why I chose it over the others.

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