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JNC Project Hakosuka Build Thread

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  • Good write up, is that information the same for an L4? I have an SFI one from Kameari to go on my L18, assumed it was just bolt on.
    P510 Bluebird SSS Coupe


    • Yeah it should be the same steps to remove the old one, and install the new one.

      You might get lucky and the old one may be wriggled off by hand, but the new one is probably as tight as the ATI one, and will be difficult to install without the proper tool
      Originally posted by datsunfreak
      No Kev, you are eating a duck fetus.


      • Originally posted by kev View Post
        Yeah it should be the same steps to remove the old one, and install the new one.

        You might get lucky and the old one may be wriggled off by hand, but the new one is probably as tight as the ATI one, and will be difficult to install without the proper tool
        This is why I love JNC. Id have attempted the job without knowing that and got stuck. I'll try find the tool needed and get my own M16x1.5 threaded rod, 3/4 drive socket and some nuts.

        P510 Bluebird SSS Coupe


        • It's been a while since the last update, but it's been a busy few months with the car. (pic by my mate Jo at

          When I bought the car in 2007, the Tokyo dealer said that it was painted in 2004, which was also when it was last registered in Japan. However, judging by the heavy swirling and light scratches on the paint, this seemed pretty unlikely and I think it's fairer to say that the paint dated back to the late 90s at least. But it occurred to me that I'd never done a proper paint correction on the Hako, so it was as good a time as any to break out my newly minted machine polisher. The process starts with Iron-X, which I spritz all over the car, and it removes baked-on iron deposits which make the pain feel sandy to the touch.

          After that, the car is rinsed and them covered all over with the foam lance and my pressure washer.

          After a few minutes for the foam to do its thing, the suds are sponged off with the 2-bucket method.

          ...first you rinse off the suds in one bucket, and then you dip it in the clean-water bucket, before going back to the car to wash off more suds. This way, any grit picked up on the wash mitt isn't redistributed around the car, and you cut down on fine swirls.

          That done, and the car dried, the next step is to clay.

          Spritz on the detailer fluid, and glide he claybar back and forth on the paint.

          And any baked on bits of dirt are picked up by the clay. I find that the Iron-X does half the work of the clay, which stays reasonably clean.

          Now the paint is squeaky clean to the touch and the car is ready for paint correction.

          The Hako is actually covered in fine swirls, and here and there, there are some heavier scratches.

          So the first polishing step is to hit the whole car with Menzerna Heavy Cut, and a cutting pad for the polisher.

          The heavier scratches need a few applications, but it really does make them less visible.

          Then we swap to a Medium Cut polish, and a finer polishing pad.

          Just a few dabs of polish will do a whole panel.

          Dab the pad all over the panel to distribute the polish...

          And then whizz the polisher all over the panel on the very lowest speed, to distribute the polish evenly (it should look like an even haze). Once you've done that, speed up the polisher to max speed, and work it back and forth slowly all over the panel. You should only apply very light downward pressure (only so much that you hear a very slight drop in polisher speed) and each spot of the panel should be worked about 3-5 times.

          Originally posted by datsunfreak
          No Kev, you are eating a duck fetus.


          • Then buff with a polishing cloth

            And you get a really nice, mellow, (largely) swirl free finish.

            Last step is to add some gloss with the fine polish...

            And the paint correction is done.

            Final step is to seal the polish in with a wax.

            Which goes on like a greasy film, and is wiped off a panel at a time.

            And we're ready to cruise! It's not a Pebble Beach paint job, and no amount of polishing will make it one...but it's shiny and reasonably presentable.

            First event was the Nissan/Datsun Nationals, which were held over the Easter long weekend. Sunday was the car show

            Which was a great show, but it was also a good opportunity for all the vintage Skyline guys to get together. This is the first event for my friend Peter's lovely Kenmeri, fresh from a very thorough restoration.

            Monday was at Sydney Motorsport Park, where a gymkhana was held on the skidpan.

            This was heaps of fun (pics by my friend Jaz at

            We didn't do that great as far as times were concerned...I think maybe there was a little too much sideways. There were also event on the racetrack, but I didn't enter those.

            The next event was Cars and Coffee On the Wharf, which I think is summed up very well like so

            Set up on a pier on Sydney Harbour, it was a really long line up of supercars...

            Including not one...but FIVE 911 GTS RS's (and I thought these things were rare)

            ...and about six Mclarens

            458 Speciale...and yes, another 911 GT3 RS

            My favourite was the Lexus LFA, the holiest of the holies as far as my wish list is concerned

            Originally posted by datsunfreak
            No Kev, you are eating a duck fetus.


            • I think there were two Avendators, five Huracans...three AMG Black Series CLKs parked in a row... AM Vantage was one of my faves...sounded wicked driving off too. As a Lexus-sponsored event, the new LC500 was on display, and what a gorgeous creature it is. Being Cars & Coffee, naturally there is a huge crowd at the exit brandishing camera phones, and yes, everyone can't resist giving it a hit on leaving the event. And oh yes...the most squirelly looking car was...a Mustang. ...supercars, great weather, lovely harbour view, a leisurely buffet breakfast and I think a certain aspect of Sydney's car culture is captured in a very neat nutshell The most recent event was the GTR Festival, at Sydney Motorsport Park...a celebration of everything Skyline The Hako was in the Heritage display, parked right opposite event sponsors Nismo. Who had a couple of GT3 cars on of which even had a go at the gymkhana! There were driving events in the offing, and it was a great opportunity to let the hako stretch its legs. The first event was the gymkhana, which was held on some access roads at the bottom of the dragstrip car park. It was a short and tight course which suited the grunty Hako really well! Next, we lined up at the dragstrip. Sydney GTR culture really has a strong drag racing element, so there was a packed field, with some contenders packing 2000hp. Hmm...maybe I can take him In the end, the Hako managed a best of 14.6 at 100mph, with a 60ft of 2.4. I found it really hard to get a neat launch; too many revs and it would break out in axle tramp, and too few and it would bog off the line. The least-worst method seemed to be to baby it off the line and then floor it once it got moving. I think the problem is that, at its very low ride height, the Hako's rear suspension arms are above horizontal, so on launching it gets a ton of rear end squat. I'm thinking a taller rear ride height would get the suspension sitting at better angles, and I might be able to get a better launch. We'll be back...with a more 70s look with a low nose and jacked up tail (pic by my mate Jo at The driving events done and dusted, the rest of the show was about drinking in the huge numbers of GT-Rs on display, separated into generational order.
              Originally posted by datsunfreak
              No Kev, you are eating a duck fetus.


              • All the vintage guys came out in force, and I'm glad to say that we had eight Hakos and Kenmeris on the day. (pic by my mate Jo at

                GTR Festival is one of my favourite events, and we'll certainly be back next year!
                Originally posted by datsunfreak
                No Kev, you are eating a duck fetus.


                • Nice write up Kev, don't know how i missed your thread until now but i saw your car at the all-jap meet on the hawkesbury last month I was in the little detomaso charade. The car looked awesome


                  • Ah yes! We were poring over your mint DeTomaso with great interest!

                    There's been a great article on Speedhunters by my mate Matthew Everingham on the GTR Festival:

                    And the event will be featured by sponsors Motive DVD, and here's the trailer (Hako makes a small cameo):

                    One of the highlights of GTR Festival was the JUNII R32 GT-R making a world record 7.66 quarter mile pass, and you can see the video here:
                    Originally posted by datsunfreak
                    No Kev, you are eating a duck fetus.


                    • Lately, I've been having experiencing some issues with the door latches. While that might sound mundane, it didn't seem all that irrelevant when the door popped open during a corner. So I figured it was time to do something about it

                      Both doors have been acting up lately. The driver's door was the worst; it seemed to not really "latch" closed and so if you pushed at it from the inside, sometimes it would pop open. And slamming it closed seemed to make it worse, and the harder you slammed it the more it would bounce back at you, the mechanism not really grabbing at the door striker and latching.

                      The door striker on the b-pillar looks like this, and if you loosen the three phillips head screws, you can get a few mm of adjustment in every direction. But adjusting this end didn't seem to fix it.

                      So we move onto the bit on the door itself; which looks like this. The top part is just a guide that slots into the striker on the body-side. The round part on the bottom is the latch, which rotates as it locks onto the teeth on the bottom of the striker.

                      You have to remove the door cards to get at the latch on the inside, so first the window winders have to come out, using this handy-dandy tool for undoing the clip inside.

                      You can also use a cloth or something, and by sawing the cloth back and forth in the gap, you might snag the clip and pull it out of its groove.

                      Then you carefully pop out the door lock plunger base, which is brittle and easy to crack...then you can unscrew the lock plunger itself. Then you unscrew the armrest and the inner door handle, and the door card can be lifted off.

                      To remove the actual latch mechanism, you have to undo these very tight phillips head screws. The best way to do it without rounding off the heads, is to use an impact driver, which isn't expensive at a parts shop. It has a spring loaded mechanism inside, that when you thwack it with a hammer, it'll rotate the screw head. The hammering action drives the bit into the screwhead, and also shocks the screw, making it easier to undo. The impact driver's pretty handy and works for both tightening and loosening.

                      Next step is to go inside the door itself and remove the key barrel, which is held in with a spring clip.

                      And then unbolt that tuning-fork looking bit...which is the linkage from the outer doorhandle.

                      ...last step is to disconnect the rod from the inner doorhandle, which is held in place with a springclip that slides back.

                      And here it is! As you can see, it's covered in 46yrs of dirt and dried up old grease.

                      This video gives a better idea of it's condition...which was that it wasn't broken but merely very, very gummed up with crap.

                      You can tell that the mechanism has gone very stiff. The way it works is that the rotating latch itself is spring loaded, and above it is a spring loaded catch that locks it in place (it's what prevents the door from opening of its own accord). With the innards of the latch all gummed up, the latch didn't rotate very freely, and the catch would sometimes get stuck and...not the door would look and sound closed, but actually not be fully latched closed.

                      At this stage it was tempting to blast the thing with WD40 and then soak it overnight in kerosene to get it nice and shiny clean again. But I figured that might wash out the grease from nooks and crannies that I wouldn't be able to get to. So in the end I just scraped off the bits of crud I could reach, then I used a small screwdriver to apply grease everywhere I could get to. And as a final step I used the blade of a feeler gauge to push the grease in between the sliding parts as best I could.

                      And now it's fixed! The doors close properly, and don't pop open anymore. Also when you lift the handle, the clockspring rotates the latch, which pops the door open a tad. It hasn't done that in a a final-final step, I loosened the door striker on the b-pillar a bit, then gently closed the door all the way. This pushed the striker into the right position vertically. And then I fiddled with the in-and-out adjustment a bit until the door was flush with the body. Adjust the striker too far in and it felt too tightly compressed on the rubber seals, and the latch wouldn't quite engage on the last click. Too far out and the door would be proud of the bodywork and there would be a bit of rattly movement against the latch.

                      But it's good now, and I don't have to worry about the doors opening by themselves on a bumpy road anymore

                      Oh...and this post has been brought to you, by the benevolence of Photobucket; who have seen fit to grandfather the existing paying customers and allow hotlinking until 2018 (in my case anyway).
                      Originally posted by datsunfreak
                      No Kev, you are eating a duck fetus.


                      • There's been some really nice videos made of the Hako, I really love the HoonTV and Nulon ones equally.

                        But recently asked if they could do a feature on the Hako. The production values on their video car reviews are really good, and I'd known their senior writer Richard Berry for years, so it had to happen.

                        I'm glad to report that it's quite a different take on the Hako, compared to the other vids, and so well-crafted too.


                        The shoot took a whole day, about 4 cameras, two cameramen and two chase cars.

                        They sure had some nice toys, like the steadicam rig...

                        Which could be panned remotely by a second person

                        Many thanks to the nice guys at, please check out their video car reviews on YouTube, and their Oversteer blog too:
                        Originally posted by datsunfreak
                        No Kev, you are eating a duck fetus.


                        • This came up on my YouTube recommended viewing last night. Good video. Car looked a little smokey on power though.
                          P510 Bluebird SSS Coupe



                          • Nice vid


                            • Evening, do you remember when fitting the Kameari distributor if it was a tight fit? I was expecting to line up the spindle gear and drop it in. I didn't force it down but it would need it to sit it down enough to bolt it in. Didn't feel right.
                              P510 Bluebird SSS Coupe



                              • Lately I've had to remind myself that a lot of the stuff I did at the beginning of the restoration, is now ten years old. Some of the new parts I fitted are possibly now older than the parts they replaced and some of the restoration work needs to be refreshed.

                                I'd repainted the grille and headlight bezels years ago, but lots of roadtrips since then have left them with a bit more patina than I'd like.

                                The headlight bezels and grille surround are chromed potmetal castings, which have black-painted sections, but stonechips have taken their toll.

                                In fact, I distinctly remember that painting the fender mirrors was one of the very first things I did, way back when the car didn't run and I tried to keep myself busy

                                So off they come, and I'll be using these. 180 and 320 grit sandpaper, VHT Roll Bar Black and my usual staple of Tamiya pinstripe tape.

                                The first job is to sand back all the stone chipped areas with 180grit paper, then scuff the rest of the areas to be painted with the 320grit. Then mask up the bits that we want to leave as chrome. The Tamiya tape is flexible enough to bend around some of the corners, and is forgiving enough that you can unstick and reposition them a few times. And as we'll see, they are very resistant to paint bleeding under the egdes.

                                The edges are done in Tamiya tape, but then I fill in the bigger areas with 3M blue.

                                Hit it with about 7 very light, misting coats of the Roll Bar Black, then blow the painted parts with a hairdryer to speed up drying in between coats. I find that if I keep the coats very light, it dries super fast and 6-7 coats only take about an hour to apply, where thick coats need much longer between coats. And peeling off the tape is very satisfying, especially the Tamiya stuff as that always leaves a rock solid, crisp edge.

                                And you can get really delicate masking shapes with the Tamiya tape too, and it's almost always perfect.

                                Relatively speaking, the 3M stuff usually will bleed here and there.

                                Everything's looking nice and fresh again.

                                Before we get to the grille, I picked up this little trinket recently. I'd resisted putting on GT-R badges on the car, as it's not a GT-R but the tail badge I fitted last year looks so right, and the car kinda looks naked without them. So now we fit a front badge.

                                The badge was supplied by Vega Autosports ( who can source any oem parts as long as you can provide the part#. Surprisingly a lot of the restoration parts available from the Hako specialists in Japan are actually still available as OEM. Basically all the badging and small items like window winders, interior trim pirces and headlight rings. So hit up Vega Autosports if you need anything from Japan.

                                Now in terms of where it's meant to go...funnily enough even period pics of the stock GT-Rs show that badge wasn't really consistently in the same spot. But it's never in the exact middle of the grille, it's always slightly higher than the middle.

                                The mirrors came out nice too. Again, I do 6-7 light misting coats, and if I do it that way, it dries with a little bit of texture, which I figure might have been what the factory finish may have been like.

                                And that's all she wrote for this little project. GT-R Festival is a month away, and the Hako will be partaking in the drags and gymkhana, so there'll be a few more little projects before then.
                                Originally posted by datsunfreak
                                No Kev, you are eating a duck fetus.